Rol-A-Lift, or Pallet Truck

[Advil]

Lots of ways to do this, but I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Prylever-Bar-Capacity-Pry/dp/B0BG1FQQKS/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1HXMCHYQ7WR2O&keywords=vevor%2Bpry%2Bbar&qid=1692078521&sprefix=vevor%2Bpry%2Bba%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-5&th=1

Here's a youtube video showing how pry bar and wedges works to get a machine up far enough to pallet jack it:

I put a 2000lb lathe up on pipes with that bar. Easy physical work, just nerve wracking the first time making sure everything is safe from tipping on the way up. A Bridgeport is also top heavy. Take it up in as many steps as seems completely safe. It doesn't matter how long wedging it up takes, only that it is done safely without tipping because once you have it high enough to get onto whatever you will use to move it the rest of the job is hopefully much easier from there.

 

[wachuko]

I ended up buying a gantry crane… everything else I tried scared the carp out of me… specially the engine hoist.

Engine hoist does not pull straight up, the legs get in the way, and had a scare with it and the Wells-Index milling machine…

I hope is not a one time use tool for me… well, two-time use I mean… still need to get it off-the pallet once I decide where it goes…

 

[wachuko]

Lots of ways to do this, but I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Prylever-Bar-Capacity-Pry/dp/B0BG1FQQKS/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1HXMCHYQ7WR2O&keywords=vevor%2Bpry%2Bbar&qid=1692078521&sprefix=vevor%2Bpry%2Bba%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-5&th=1

Here's a youtube video showing how pry bar and wedges works to get a machine up far enough to pallet jack it:

I put a 2000lb lathe up on pipes with that bar. Easy physical work, just nerve wracking the first time making sure everything is safe from tipping on the way up. A Bridgeport is also top heavy. Take it up in as many steps as seems completely safe. It doesn't matter how long wedging it up takes, only that it is done safely without tipping because once you have it high enough to get onto whatever you will use to move it the rest of the job is hopefully much easier from there.

I got that one as well, excellent for small lift to slide in pipes…

 

[projectnut]

I got the same pry bar from Northern Tool to help move my mill and lathe. In the end it didn't get used much. I moved the lathe with some 1" diameter rods and lifted it high enough to get the bars under it with a Snap-On 2' pry bar.

 

[wayback machine]

Lots of ways to do this, but I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Prylever-Bar-Capacity-Pry/dp/B0BG1FQQKS/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1HXMCHYQ7WR2O&keywords=vevor%2Bpry%2Bbar&qid=1692078521&sprefix=vevor%2Bpry%2Bba%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-5&th=1

A Johnson bar like this is the simplest way - Slow and sure.
Lift and block it a little at a time, and you be able to get the pallet jack, or iron pipes under it before you know it.

 

[pontiac428]

If I remember right, your Series 2 is sitting in the open on your back patio and will go under the overhang, right?

I'm saying this because you have a Series 2, and a lot of the moving advice that comes up is for small Series 1 type knee mills. They are not the same thing, moving a 2500 lb mill is 1/4 the effort of moving a 4500 lb mill. Be extremely careful using skates on anything short of a perfectly flat surface. For short distances, Egyptian rollers (pipe) is the safest move.

If you want to see how easy it really is to lay your mill on its face, check out @Shotgun's security video feed of his mishap. It looked so much like my experience, where everything is just fine until a crack in the concrete sends the skates flying. There is no time to react, none. So be careful and get help.

 

[Manual Artisan]

If I remember right, your Series 2 is sitting in the open on your back patio and will go under the overhang, right?

I'm saying this because you have a Series 2, and a lot of the moving advice that comes up is for small Series 1 type knee mills. They are not the same thing, moving a 2500 lb mill is 1/4 the effort of moving a 4500 lb mill. Be extremely careful using skates on anything short of a perfectly flat surface. For short distances, Egyptian rollers (pipe) is the safest move.

If you want to see how easy it really is to lay your mill on its face, check out @Shotgun's security video feed of his mishap. It looked so much like my experience, where everything is just fine until a crack in the concrete sends the skates flying. There is no time to react, none. So be careful and get help.

Thank you for that! I appreciate it, and I ended up just getting it moved by a couple of guys yesterday. We were able to move it under the overhang, and everything worked out! Now I just have to get some shims, and shim it level in the spot I'm putting it.

 

[Rikshard]

A few 4in square of 3/8 ply, and inch it up with a toe bar.

Take it up one corner or long edge at a time, placing a square of ply in each time.

Depending on how wide your toes are, you may have to be clever on how to place your cribbing squares.

I would suggest, it space allows, boosting it up with 3 stacks to promote less wobbling.

An assistant and solid communication makes this a very achievable job, and putting down is the reverse of jacking up.

Ply also tends to give a bit of warning when it fails, and the rough surfaces minimise slipping.

That's how I've started moving all my machinery in work, until I can get a toe jack and skates in.

Take your time, have a clear plan, talk it through with your assistant if you're lucky, and you'll be grand

Sent from my M2102J20SG using Tapatalk

 

[stupoty]

specially the engine hoist

Made me think of the time the horizontal milling machine was stuck in the back of a van.

Was loaded with a forklift , only had engine hoist from hire shop to get it out , had to drive van away from the hoist with it all attached

Ow how we laughed (after safely getting it out)

Stu