Bridgeport Rehab - or How To Lose Your Wife In 10 Days

[woodchucker]

I would not want power and signal in one conduit, cross talk could be a problem. If that answers your question. I would use stranded for power and signal. Ferrules optional, but nice

 

[jmiller]

All the connections inside the control box are crimped spade and rings. The connector on the bottom just retains my homemade control cable which is 20g stranded wire ran through a flexible plastic harness typically used for automotive applications. The control box is mounted to the swing arm under the DRO. I made the cable about 10' in length so that I could route it over to where my VFD is tucked away for safety.

For a home shop I think this is fine. I haven't noticed any issues with interference and the cable is routed and secured in a way that is pretty safe from accidental damage. If this were a commercial machine shop I'm sure it would have to be done different.

 

[jmiller]

I would not want power and signal in one conduit, cross talk could be a problem. If that answers your question. I would use stranded for power and signal. Ferrules optional, but nice

Power is separated and routed differently. They only get within 6" of the signal cables where they meet at the vfd

 

[corbinstein0]

You guys guilted me into finally attaching the cheapo battery powered quill DRO (glorified caliper) that’s been rattling around in a drawer for years.

I only own an offshore bench top square column mill with a two axis DRO. Until now I’ve been relying on the dials and gauge pins in combo with the quill stop.

Today I just attached it with hacked together scrap to get the dimensions right, but it seems to work. I promised myself I’d make a cleaner mount but it’s at least 50/50 it stays like this for a few decades.

Somewhat alarmingly, the dial and DRO don’t seem to agree. The DRO reads about 1-2% less travel than the dial.

If it was reading more travel, I’d attribute it to being somewhat off vertical, but since it’s reading shorter, and the discrepancy is suspiciously close to the difference between 25mm and 25.4mm, I now think I’ve discovered the source of some puzzling errors in projects past.

There needs to be a word for a 25mm “inch” — none of mine are fit for polite company.

I’ll indicate it in the morning to see if that’s indeed what’s happening. It’s too hot in the shop atm.

There are 100 divisions on the dial. I’ll bet real money they made the pitch of the quill’s fine metric (like 0.5mm) and geared it to get 2.5mm per rev with a dial labeled 0.100”/rev. Any takers?

Anyone need 25mm collets marked 1” or 12.5mm collets marked 1/2”? I’ve got both free for the taking.

Been down that road with bearings!