First tooling purchase for the Bridgeport - Advice Wanted

[Ischgl99]

True, but they actually stock it. There's a bunch of these tooling outfits that don't stock a thing, it's all dropped shipped from the manufacturer. You know, some day, far into the future.

Travers lets you know which warehouse has it, so you know before you buy it how long it might take.

 

[coolidge]

Travers lets you know which warehouse has it, so you know before you buy it how long it might take.

Yes I think it was Travers who had the unobtanium Bison D1-5 backing plate I needed sitting on some dusty shelf in a warehouse. It had been there quite some time, the preservative had turned to stone.

I issued the warning because I got into several 4-8 week fiascos trying to get my money refunded from these hack tool drop shippers.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Electronic edge finder. There are two made in the USA (1/2 and 3/4 inch shank) Haas tooling is selling them for 66% less than what Travers scalped me for them.

The 1/2 inch shank is more convenient but the 3/4 inch shank has both LED and audible features. I have been using these for a while, they are fantastic. I'm going to fashion a holder so I can set my lathe tool heights with them also.

Electronic Edge Finder, 0.4" Tip, 0.75" Shank

www.haascnc.com

Electronic Edge Finder, 0.2" Tip, 0.5" Shank

www.haascnc.com

This video from suburban tool changed my views on the electronic edge finders for good.

You kinda have to read between the lines as suburban sells Haas and does not want to offend any manufacturer, but he came up with basically "Within .001-.002" for the electronic due to how its used. That's quite a bit of error for something that is supposedly more accurate.

 

[coolidge]

This video from suburban tool changed my views on the electronic edge finders for good.

You kinda have to read between the lines as suburban sells Haas and does not want to offend any manufacturer, but he came up with basically "Within .001-.002" for the electronic due to how its used. That's quite a bit of error for something that is supposedly more accurate.

I stopped watching after he said let's assume the collet runout is off .010. Assume I took the time to mock him.

Now, I chucked my electronic end finders and tested them with a Mitutoyo .0001 test indicator, they test .0002 run out total. That's total run out of the spindle, ER32 collet chuck, collet and edge finder. That's kind of ridiculously accurate since my Grizzly mill isn't even capable of machining to that tolerance. lol

 

[CJ5Dave]

Ned a 3/4 end wrench for sure - almost every adjustment on it.

 

[coolidge]

Ned a 3/4 end wrench for sure - almost every adjustment on it.

^^^ great call out!

 

[CJ5Dave]

I’m not sure if a power feed is tooling, but you will really enjoy an x axis power feed. Did not see one listed. May have missed it.

 

[coolidge]

I’m not sure if a power feed is tooling, but you will really enjoy an x axis power feed. Did not see one listed. May have missed it.

^^^ a must have super time and arm saver. Plus makes milling more consistent.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I stopped watching after he said let's assume the collet runout is off .010. Assume I took the time to mock him.

Now, I chucked my electronic end finders and tested them with a Mitutoyo .0001 test indicator, they test .0002 run out total. That's total run out of the spindle, ER32 collet chuck, collet and edge finder. That's kind of ridiculously accurate since my Grizzly mill isn't even capable of machining to that tolerance. lol

You should have watched the whole thing.

Conformation bias is a real.

 

[Larry$]

Personal experience as a hobbyist with a Jet 949. Skip most of the sets. I have a wiggler but rarely use it. I use a brand name edge finder. Skip the 5C collet set, way too few sizes. I like using 5C collets on the lathe, but I've never used them on the Mill spindle. Spin indexers commonly do use them. Actually on my R8 spindle I rarely use other than ¼, 3/8, ½ & 3/4" collets. Those are the sizes of most of my tooling. I do have an ER to R8 collet holder but it is because I use ER40 collets on the lathe not really a requirement for getting started on a mill. Quality collets aren't cheap and it takes a lot of them to be able to cover all the sizes. Truth be known you won't use most of a complete set. Get a good drill chuck. I've got both keyed and keyless and prefer the keyless. I can always use the wrench on it if I'm thinking of abusing it. I use screw machine bits far more often than jobber length or aircraft types. But you will want a 115 pc. set of name brand jobber bits also. You will need taps. Do Not buy a cheap set of taps. Nothing worse than having to get a broken tap out of an expensive casting. I like spiral taps.

Now for the things that just make life easier but not required to start. X & knee power feeds. It takes a lot of cranking of the knee each time you switch between say an end mill, reamer &/or a boring head. I'm old and lazy! I put a 3 axis DRO on my mill. Really like it. Speeds working and reduces errors. And last, buy as needed, used can be good or a POS, can't tell by the ads. Some Chinese stuff is OK, some pure junk.

There will be a lot more items you will want, some day. Rotary table, tilt table, indexing head, spin indexer, tool cabinets, bench vice, bench grinder, tool & cutter grinder, sanders..... $$$$$$$$$$$