Help with Mori Seiki MS850 -- newbie purchaser

I note hammer tracks on the two locknuts at bottom center. That is certainly not factory.
I saw those, too. They’re consistent with other clues that, as the seller acknowledged, someone previously had been through it.
 
The lathe is not pristine, but it doesn't appear well-worn either. My question is why did they have it apart? Was it to replace the bearings or...?

You mentioned that it wasn't under power when you bought it. Once under power, that will tell you more. I am leaning more toward the scenario that you purchased a nice used lathe that will work fine for your intended purpose. As @MrWhoopee mentioned, the hammer marks on the lock collars are a little concerning from the method they used to tighten them down. I would have thought that two spanners would be the accepted method vs hammering on it.
In the end though, you will probably be just fine. The ways are the critical part.
 
The lathe is not pristine, but it doesn't appear well-worn either. My question is why did they have it apart? Was it to replace the bearings or...?

You mentioned that it wasn't under power when you bought it. Once under power, that will tell you more. I am leaning more toward the scenario that you purchased a nice used lathe that will work fine for your intended purpose. As @MrWhoopee mentioned, the hammer marks on the lock collars are a little concerning from the method they used to tighten them down. I would have thought that two spanners would be the accepted method vs hammering on it.
In the end though, you will probably be just fine. The ways are the critical part.
that doesn't bother me. The way many loosen and tighten is to use a drift to punch them around. I guess they didn't use a brass drift. It looks like it did take a beating, but no concern on those.
 
I have always been surprised when rehabbing metalworking machines at how many machinists are lousy mechanics. Stuff butchered and buggered to get cobbled up fixes. Most of what I've seen can be corrected. Oilers not working is a far greater issue in my world. Hard to fix worn ways although it is surprising how well you can get a worn lathe to perform if it started out well built.

Dave
 
Hello. I'm new to this forum, brand new to machining, and it seems appropriate to make a first post asking for help on buying my first lathe.

Quick background: I'm a woodworker and metal fabricator, I've torn apart and rebuilt a motorcycle, and generally have good mechanical skills. Hence, I envisioned a first lathe as a restoration project taking months, a great way to learn the machine I'll use. It's a hobby, not what keeps food on my table. Parts I'll make likely will be mostly mild steel, maybe cast iron, brass, and aluminum, too. Considering part sizes, I recently considered but had to reject two WWII Reed-Prentice 16" lathes.

In the crosshairs: I have a line on a 70's era Mori Seiki MS850 very close to me. 17x40. Machinery dealer bought from another dealer/shop. Headstock gears are pristine, even showing signs of not being fully worn-in. Ways (hardened) are great. No steady rest, follow rest, taper attachment, or tooling (but I already have a CXA QCTP and various holders). Only a 3-jaw chuck. Gear change levers are buttery smooth. Not under power. Dealer was tearing down for own use, but stopped (other interests), so the lathe is in parts, resulting mainly from removal of the apron and lead screw. I put my DI on the chuck and pried under the chuck with a 4x4 timber to induce movement; the needle didn't move -- spindle bearings are excellent. Comes with factory parts lists and diagrams, is represented to be complete (and it appears that way to me), and I already know that I can buy parts as needed from Whacheon.

Would I be a fool to turn this down at $4k firm?

Thanks for advice.
I purchased a new MS1250G use for 30 years great lathe.
I still have a new set of bedway wiper. Let me know if want them

The MS850 is same lathe but shorter.

Dave
 
The lathe is not pristine, but it doesn't appear well-worn either. My question is why did they have it apart? Was it to replace the bearings or...?

You mentioned that it wasn't under power when you bought it. Once under power, that will tell you more. I am leaning more toward the scenario that you purchased a nice used lathe that will work fine for your intended purpose. As @MrWhoopee mentioned, the hammer marks on the lock collars are a little concerning from the method they used to tighten them down. I would have thought that two spanners would be the accepted method vs hammering on it.
In the end though, you will probably be just fine. The ways are the critical part.
I asked the same question several times over several conversations, and I received the same answer each time. Seller purchased the lathe in non-working condition, and rather than re-sell it as-is, they decided to keep it for their own shop and so embarked on a general restoration. Business distractions intervened and so the resto project was put on hold indefinitely. I do not think, and I have no hint whatsoever, that the seller identified any specific problem. Like me, I suspect they simply looked at the lathe and decided that it needed a restoration. Simple as that.

I did not originally note the hammer marks. I do think two spanner wrenches would have been the proper way to tighten the lock collars. I've personally observed another machinist tighten a lock collar with a small hammer and screw driver. It seemed a touch primitive, but it worked.
 
I purchased a new MS1250G use for 30 years great lathe.
I still have a new set of bedway wiper. Let me know if want them

The MS850 is same lathe but shorter.

Dave
That's mighty kind of you, Dave. Thank you. I have not yet assessed the condition of way wipers. When I do, and if mine are toast, then I'll reach out to you privately.

Steve
 
That's mighty kind of you, Dave. Thank you. I have not yet assessed the condition of way wipers. When I do, and if mine are toast, then I'll reach out to you privately.

Steve
They built a great lathe .
The cross slide screw in a oil bath.
Easy to fill up by finding to fill cap on top of cross side the poor oil in till old come out in back of lathe

Stop making the around 1980 and only did CNC.

Dave
 
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