My Logan 820 Lathe Journey

[Shiseiji]

Jamie, the motor diagram switch doesn't match your switch. That's part of what's confusing the heck out of you. Sorry I didn't catch that earlier, I honestly wasn't paying any attention to it vs. what's coming out of the motor and then the Logan switch you do have. In the switch shown in the motor diagram you are right, there are 9 connections shown. The Logan also has nine, but the diagram only works with six as the other three are treated as a path from the input side to the output side.

I've gone through this more than a couple of times, it's almost 10, and I'm starting to go around in circles. Bottom line You are not crazy, and it's not clear how the factory switch is connecting the L1 (power). This is where I've gone through more than a few "huh" and "maybes." In a more modern schematic, center 3, #2, #5, & #8 and the lines pointed up to left, represent moving from up to down connecting to the left down, #4, & #7. But that would mean the L1(power) isn't conected. So they represent the center connections to the left in FWD (CW) and when rotated the center connections to the left in REV (CCW).

Motor wiring is (M). This is what my quick review of the factory switch (FS) tells me. Later I will try to make it clear where the M connects to the Logan switch (LS).

FWD (CW)
Logan Switch #2 is L1 hot
Logan Switch #6 is L2 Neutral

Motor #1 to FS #3 & disconnected
Motor #2 to FS #4 to FS#5 to L1 (hot)
Motor #3 is not used.
Motor #4 to FS#2 (neutral) So now we know motor #4 is the neutral in FWD (CW).
Motor #5 to FS#1 to FS#2 So now we know motor #5 is also a neutral in FWD (CW).
Motor #6 to FS#6 to FS#7 to L1 (hot) (LS#1/L1) on left side of the switch

REV (CCW)
M#1 to FS#3 to L2 (neutral) -
M#2 to FS#4 & disconnected
M#3 not used
M#4 to FS#3 to FS#2 to L2 (neutral)
M#5 to FS#1 to FS#6 to FS#5 L1 (hot)
M#6 to FS#7 to FS#9 to FS#8 to L1(hot)

To be determined how the 4 switching hot/neutral wires pair through LS#1, #3 #4 & #5 I know this is where you want to be, but at least we now know which motor pair connections are being switched from hot/neutral in FWD to neutral/hot in REV.
For the Logan Switch. Refer to my earlier for the hot and neutral connections and see if you can puzzle out what legs can go hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and the remaining ones to be switched through LS#3 & 4

I think that's where we are at. Hope this helps. LOL, 11:30 off to bed.











Now for REV.
M#5 becomes neutral from FS#2
M#.






& #6 In the switch diagram are not connected to L1 power in CW/FWD. They will be powered when the switch is moved to CCW/REV
Motor # - In the switch diagram it is connected to what is 3 in the Logan switch, the connection is swapped between they are connected to what is L1 in the Logan Switchit's connecting to

 

[wachuko]

Jamie, the motor diagram switch doesn't match your switch. That's part of what's confusing the heck out of you. Sorry I didn't catch that earlier, I honestly wasn't paying any attention to it vs. what's coming out of the motor and then the Logan switch you do have. In the switch shown in the motor diagram you are right, there are 9 connections shown. The Logan also has nine, but the diagram only works with six as the other three are treated as a path from the input side to the output side.

I've gone through this more than a couple of times, it's almost 10, and I'm starting to go around in circles. Bottom line You are not crazy, and it's not clear how the factory switch is connecting the L1 (power). This is where I've gone through more than a few "huh" and "maybes." In a more modern schematic, center 3, #2, #5, & #8 and the lines pointed up to left, represent moving from up to down connecting to the left down, #4, & #7. But that would mean the L1(power) isn't conected. So they represent the center connections to the left in FWD (CW) and when rotated the center connections to the left in REV (CCW).

Motor wiring is (M). This is what my quick review of the factory switch (FS) tells me. Later I will try to make it clear where the M connects to the Logan switch (LS).

FWD (CW)
Logan Switch #2 is L1 hot
Logan Switch #6 is L2 Neutral

Motor #1 to FS #3 & disconnected
Motor #2 to FS #4 to FS#5 to L1 (hot)
Motor #3 is not used.
Motor #4 to FS#2 (neutral) So now we know motor #4 is the neutral in FWD (CW).
Motor #5 to FS#1 to FS#2 So now we know motor #5 is also a neutral in FWD (CW).
Motor #6 to FS#6 to FS#7 to L1 (hot) (LS#1/L1) on left side of the switch

REV (CCW)
M#1 to FS#3 to L2 (neutral) -
M#2 to FS#4 & disconnected
M#3 not used
M#4 to FS#3 to FS#2 to L2 (neutral)
M#5 to FS#1 to FS#6 to FS#5 L1 (hot)
M#6 to FS#7 to FS#9 to FS#8 to L1(hot)

To be determined how the 4 switching hot/neutral wires pair through LS#1, #3 #4 & #5 I know this is where you want to be, but at least we now know which motor pair connections are being switched from hot/neutral in FWD to neutral/hot in REV.
For the Logan Switch. Refer to my earlier for the hot and neutral connections and see if you can puzzle out what legs can go hot to hot, neutral to neutral, and the remaining ones to be switched through LS#3 & 4

I think that's where we are at. Hope this helps. LOL, 11:30 off to bed.











Now for REV.
M#5 becomes neutral from FS#2
M#.






& #6 In the switch diagram are not connected to L1 power in CW/FWD. They will be powered when the switch is moved to CCW/REV
Motor # - In the switch diagram it is connected to what is 3 in the Logan switch, the connection is swapped between they are connected to what is L1 in the Logan Switchit's connecting to

Thank you for your patience and sticking around to help. So I have the original switch to the lathe. What I do not have is the original motor that came with it... seems a previous owner replaced that with the one I currently have. That is why none of the diagrams match.

Last night I went and mapped the switch... how it works... Center Position: no terminal contacts any other. When moving to F or R, this is the mapping I get: So this means that all the switch does is reverse FS #3 and FS#4 when going from F to R?



So based on what you share... and I know I do not have them all connected... trying to understand your #7 and #8 comments...

 

[Shiseiji]

Yes. And I was able to use the original switch to map the motor hots and neutrals. What's left is to map out the motor connections that flip on Logan switch 3 & 4. Domestic tranquility here, I will have to check your schmatic later. Or if you think you have it check with the VOM.

The last I missed deleting sorry, Scrolling up and down and editing the heck out of the post LOL. Tired didn't help.

Ron

 

[Shiseiji]

Jamie, L1 to M4 will be a hot to the motor 100% of the time. I believe we are going to end up with double hot & neutral on 1 & 5 and on 3 & 4. Which motor wires those are is what we have to figure out.

Can I make a request? Put the motor on the left and L1 on the far right going to S2, L2 to S6. This will match both the Logan manual and the switch diagram. I have two switches, the one in the bench is illegible, I'm going to look at the one I have mounted as soon as I can. If you want to look, 99% certain there is a switch schematic posted to the Lathe-List forum.

 

[Shiseiji]

We know LS#6 is L1 (hot) & LS#2 is L2 (neutral)
We know from above where your motor hot & neutral will go:
M#1 & M#4 (neutral) will go to LS#1
M#5 & M#6 (hot) will go to LS#5
So we are left with M#2 &M#3 to put on LS#3 & LS#4

Double check with the VOM

Ron

 

[wachuko]

Waiting for the Wago connectors to arrive so I can progress the wiring of the motor and switch... but I forgot to share the auto-retract threading tool I bought from @MrWhoopee

 

[Shiseiji]

It's pretty cool. I've seen at least 4 in different models in various workbooks and magazines, and that's probably an under count. But they are so far down the "I'm a gunna." list this is a far better option LOL. Looking forward to seeing your trigger. What I thought was really cool watching Mark's was how you can thread without a run-on groove.

 

[wachuko]

It's pretty cool. I've seen at least 4 in different models in various workbooks and magazines, and that's probably an under count. But they are so far down the "I'm a gunna." list this is a far better option LOL. Looking forward to seeing your trigger. What I thought was really cool watching Mark's was how you can thread without a run-on groove.

I bought the Hemingway kit to give that a try... I have several kits waiting for when I have the shop organized enough to start working on those...

 

[Shiseiji]

I bought the Hemingway kit to give that a try... I have several kits waiting for when I have the shop organized enough to start working on those...

"Professor of Pending Projects"

 

[wachuko]

View attachment 495825
We know LS#6 is L1 (hot) & LS#2 is L2 (neutral)
We know from above where your motor hot & neutral will go:
M#1 & M#4 (neutral) will go to LS#1
M#5 & M#6 (hot) will go to LS#5
So we are left with M#2 &M#3 to put on LS#3 & LS#4

Double check with the VOM

Ron

Well M#3 is easy as there is nothing in there... not even a post/screw. I really can't decipher what M#2 does... so I will place it in LS#3 for now... Let the fireworks begin!!