My Logan 820 Lathe Journey

Sorry, neglected to give a big congrats on the WT. What is the pulley set up?
 
P.S. IMHO absolutely no need to go over the max 3/4hp the lathe shipped with. You won't gain anything because it won't change the belt grip. Just my $.02
 
Well, before you go the new motor route, can you live with the Grizzly if the Logan goes down? If you can, wire it up as I've suggested and we'll see if the magic smoke stays in the motor.

If you can't, decide if you want to go 3ph/VFD. Automation Direct is a good company, and reportedly set up Bob on the groups.io board to retain his lathe controls. Worth a call. Otherwise some Baldor motors are still US made, got mine from Zoro, Scott sells motors, or Automation Direct. Sometimes Surplus City has good prices.

I haver the Grizzly and the HF so not an issue if it is down. But I do not want to compromise the motor unnecessarily. I rather just get a motor that would work with the drum switch and call it a day. No VFD, nothing fancy. Just a motor and the drum switch that I have (original to the lathe).

I need to check my stash to see if there is a motor here that I can use... if not, I will get one of those you listed. Thank you. And thank you again for all the help along the way with this task.
 
Sorry, neglected to give a big congrats on the WT. What is the pulley set up?
Original single pulley... I was planning on modifying it. Want to see if I can make it so that I can change blades and use it to cut metal... not sure if it is possible with this model/size bandsaw. I have a set of 5 step pulleys that I was thinking of using...

Right now I just want to clean it, paint it and buy, or make, the missing parts. So I can get it back to operational status.
 
P.S. IMHO absolutely no need to go over the max 3/4hp the lathe shipped with. You won't gain anything because it won't change the belt grip. Just my $.02
Yeah, 1/2 or 3/4 HP motor is more than enough... not looking at anything stronger than that. Thank you!
 
Got ya. May sound silly, but I have a 3ph motor on a 2 step pulley, with the factory switch, I can swap between a SPC or RPC. Long story. But I figure machinists ran these for decades on pulley speeds . . . One other cheap option with a small benefit. Watch Craig's list/Marketplace for a cheap running Craftsman table saw. Motor for the lathe, saw top for a welding table. I have two ganged together as a bench grinder table. One was $75, the other was free.

On Vintage Machinery ( tools aren't working on the Kindle) there is an rpm calculator
http://vintagemachinery.org/math/arborrpm.aspx most band saws will require a jack shaft. At a swap I purchased what I believe is an old Atlas jack shaft to reduce the rpm on a bandsaw. Then ended up with a Jet 14" metal/wood saw. No idea how much room you have in the WT base
 
The Leeson here looks nice- and would play well with your drum switch
Any motor where you swap two wires to reverse it would be easier to hook up- and preferably a motor without the thermal protector
since with the drum switch you have it's sometimes necessary to bypass the protection for the start circuit
The other style of drum switch (3-phase) is a better choice for motors with thermal protectors
 
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The Leeson here looks nice- and would play well with your drum switch
Any motor where you swap two wires to reverse it would be easier to hook up- and preferably a motor without the thermal protector
since with the drum switch you have it's sometimes necessary to bypass the protection for the start circuit
The other style of drum switch (3-phase) is a better choice for motors with thermal protectors
I will order that one next month. Thanks.

The only one that I have here is a Craftsman motor 3400rpms… too fast for this application.
 
You might could do better on the price; I just plucked that one out for another member who needed a new unit.
I don't know the used motor market in your area but they do pop up occasionally
 
Jamie, when you shop check the measurements carefully. If the motor shaft isn't long enough, you won't be able to slide the motor out far enough for your pulley before it runs into the back side of the belt guard frame P/N LA-394. And sometimes either the capacitor or the terminal box can run into the side of the drive box. If you have time, making tee nuts for the bottom of the motor bracket P/N LA-383 can make mounting the motor a lot less frustrating. And size your bolt length to be no longer than necessary.

Here's the link to the discussion on the groups.io Logan forum It has some information you should probably review.
 
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