My Logan 820 Lathe Journey

[Shiseiji]

If it is wired like how shows running CW and running CCW, swap your power leads.

 

[markba633csi]

Can't do it with the switch you have, not enough poles
Adding a double pole relay might do it

 

[wachuko]

You could add a single pole relay- I'll do a sketch. Hold on to your panties

Thank you!

 

[Shiseiji]

Can't do it with the switch you have, not enough poles
Adding a double pole relay might do it

Mark, did you catch:

M1 is burgundy inside the motor with a yellow jumper to M4
M4 is yellow with a jumper to M1 and yellow wire leaving the “terminal box”
I believe M1 & M4 are neutrals based on the previous owner's note.

 

[markba633csi]

So you're saying M1 and M4 are jumpered together? What post?

 

[Shiseiji]

So you're saying M1 and M4 are jumpered together behind the terminal board?

On the terminal board. It takes looking carefully at all of Jamie's pictures of the terminal board to catch it.
Please look to see if this makes sense walking through the previous owner's note and the difference between the fixed CW or CCW for clues:

Starting on page 37, post number 363
Looking through the motor wiring:

M1 is burgundy inside the motor with a yellow jumper to M4
M2 is red and leaves the terminal box
M3 is empty
M4 is yellow with a jumper to M1 and wire leaving the “terminal box”
M5 is blue/white and leaves the terminal box
M6 is black/white and leaves the terminal box

The wiring note tells us
CW only:
Cord hot (load 1) on LS#6
Cord neutral (load 2) on LS#2
M1/M4 & M5 to neutral Logan #1 (always a neutral) connecting to Logan #2 line 2 neutral
M2 & M6 to hot. This will be Logan #5 (always a hot) connecting to Logan #6 Line 1 hot

CCW only:
Cord hot (load 1) on LS#6
Cord neutral (load 2) on LS#2

M1/M4 to Logan #2 (always a neutral) connecting to Logan #1 line 2 neutral
M5 & M6 to Logan #5 (always a hot) connecting to Logan #6 line 1 hot

Note: M5 is neutral in FDW & hot in REV

Fully functioning switch
Cord hot (load 1) to Logan switch #6
Cord neutral (load 2) to Logan switch #2

Connect M1/M4 (a neutral) to LS#1 (a direct connection to neutral).
Connect M2 (a hot) to LS#4 In FWD this will connect to LS#6 for power.
Connect M5 (a neutral) to LS#3 In FWD this will connect to LS#1 always a neutral
Connect M6 (a hot) to LS#5 (always hot)

Putting the switch in REV will
Swap the M2 from hot on LS#4/LS#6 to neutral on LS#1
Swap the M5 neutral on LS#3/LS#1 to hot on LS#5/LS#6.

 

[markba633csi]

According to the GE diagram, 1 does tie to 4 but only in the CCW direction. Otherwise it floats.
My pea brain can't decipher the previous owner's notes. If you can id the two ends of the start leg that would solve it. I haven't been able to.
The 5 wire connection requires more poles than the switch at hand- AFAIK
Most 120 volt hookups use 4 wires between switch and motor- 2 main and 2 start

There may be two separate start windings and they are switching between them somehow IDK

 

[Shiseiji]

According to the GE diagram, 1 does tie to 4 but only in the CCW direction. Otherwise it floats.
My pea brain can't decipher the previous owner's notes. If you can id the two ends of the start leg that would solve it. I haven't been able to.
The 5 wire connection requires more poles than the switch at hand- AFAIK
Most 120 volt hookups use 4 wires between switch and motor- 2 main and 2 start

I believe the notes refer to the terminal board numbers, that's how I was able to narrow down which connections are changing hot/neutral for the fixed CCW and from that what are the field winding connections. I believe the jumper from 1 to 4 turns this motor configuration from a five to a four connection. In this case not two start with the capacitor, but reversing the field windings to swap from CW to CCW.

 

[wachuko]

I thank you both. But not worth all the hard work you both are putting into it.

Would it be better to just get a new motor? I can always use this one to drive the Walker-Turner 10” bandsaw. No need for reverse on that one.

And if I go the new-motor route, anything you would recommend that I go with ? I just want to keep the stock drum switch.

Photo of another work in progress project:

 

[Shiseiji]

Well, before you go the new motor route, can you live with the Grizzly if the Logan goes down? If you can, wire it up as I've suggested and we'll see if the magic smoke stays in the motor.

If you can't, decide if you want to go 3ph/VFD. Automation Direct is a good company, and reportedly set up Bob on the groups.io board to retain his lathe controls. Worth a call. Otherwise some Baldor motors are still US made, got mine from Zoro, Scott sells motors, or Automation Direct. Sometimes Surplus City has good prices.