My Logan 820 Lathe Journey

[wachuko]

Only wired as an on/off switch. Strongly recommend you mount a real motor single throw double post cut-off. Too easy to mount just under the barrel switch. The barrel switch leaves the neutral connected.

I can do that as an additional safety precaution. But I also want to have the functional forward and reverse.

 

[Shiseiji]

That is how I have mine wired up. My apologies, I forgot I'd given my opinion on the other board.
I've had mine wired up F/R with both 2 & 3ph. 3ph this moment, so I can't help with an actual photo of my set-up. But the link to the other discussion I found here at Hobby Machinist "should" give you what you need. If the colors are different let us know where so we can try to have a common reference. Try anyway . . .

 

[wachuko]

Reading….

Need help wiring a motor/drum switch

I have a 1/2 horsepower motor for an old Atlas lathe I am restoring. It is connected to a drum switch to allow me to reverse the motor direction. I partially disassembled the wiring thinking I knew how it went back together but I was wrong. I can't figure out how to reconnect the wiring. Almost...

www.hobby-machinist.com

Got the box installed correctly as it was all loose…


But I am calling it a day… can’t get my mind around how the heck this is supposed to be wired…

 

[matthewsx]

I put three phase motors with VFD’s on my old lathes. It’s 2024 after all.

John

P. S.

You’ll get it, just stick with it until you do. Totally chasing your tail with only two wires connected. Lucky it didn’t catch on fire when you energized the others.

 

[wachuko]

I put three phase motors with VFD’s on my old lathes. It’s 2024 after all.

John

P. S.

You’ll get it, just stick with it until you do. Totally chasing your tail with only two wires connected. Lucky it didn’t catch on fire when you energized the others.

I just love the looks and the feel of using a drum switch.

Worse case scenario, I will wire it back like it was… at least it was working. But eliminating al those wires from the switch that were cut just before the junction box…yeah…

Right now I am searching and reading the threads from @wa5cab on wiring…

 

[Shiseiji]

Black | Blue | Red | Yellow | Correct? Note the Sears green wire shown is something unique to the Sears motor, green wouldn't used now. The white neutral connects to blue on the Sears motor.
The capacitor is used for starting but remains connected, the connections won't leave the motor.

Now I remember why this gets confusing.
Switch cover - Fwd | Off | Rev

The schematic is a read right to left through the switch to the motor. It is reversed from the Fwd | Off | Rev marked on the cover. We know this because the wiring on the right is where the line power comes in. Left is for when the switch is rotated/thrown to REVERSE. Note the Logan schematic does not show how power gets to C1 & C2.

Switch wiring.

In FWD
1 - 2 (L2/neutral) are connected and always connect to the motor T1 & T2 (colors to be determined).
3 connects to to neutral (L2)
4 isn't connected in FWD
5 - 6 (L1/hot) are connected and always connect to the motor T3 & T4 (colors to be determined).

In REV
1 - 2 (L2/neutral) are connected & motor T1 & T2
3 is not connected.
4 is connected to 6 (L1/hot))
5 - 6 (L1/hot) are connected & motor T3 & T4

So switching FWD/REV switches hot/neutral on 3 & 4
Switch wiring for 1 -2 (L1) & 5 - 6 (L2) complete
3 & 4 reverse the motor.

The motor.
Blue connects to white/neutral on the Sears switch.
Green connects to Line/hot (L1) on the Sears switch.
Black & Red reverse the motor direction and are most likely the field windings. Test all this with your VOM first!!!!!!!! Assuming you find the field wiring, try one way and if it runs backwards, swap them.

This link is Matthias Wandal's web site and a good read on reversing motors, but you can scroll down the end for a quick read of what you are interested in. A pretty interesting engineer in Canada. Mostly does shop made wood working tools, lately has started to venture into metal. If you ever want to play with gears he has a pretty neat app.

 

[matthewsx]

I just love the looks and the feel of using a drum switch.

Worse case scenario, I will wire it back like it was… at least it was working. But eliminating al those wires from the switch that were cut just before the junction box…yeah…

Right now I am searching and reading the threads from @wa5cab on wiring…

Drum switch can be wired into VFD if you like.

I get it, restoration vs. RestoMod. You’re a car guy so I know you know too.

John

 

[wachuko]

Black | Blue | Red | Yellow | Correct? Note the Sears green wire shown is something unique to the Sears motor, green wouldn't used now. The white neutral connects to blue on the Sears motor.
The capacitor is used for starting but remains connected, the connections won't leave the motor.

Now I remember why this gets confusing.
Switch cover - Fwd | Off | Rev

The schematic is a read right to left through the switch to the motor. It is reversed from the Fwd | Off | Rev marked on the cover. We know this because the wiring on the right is where the line power comes in. Left is for when the switch is rotated/thrown to REVERSE. Note the Logan schematic does not show how power gets to C1 & C2.

Switch wiring.

In FWD
1 - 2 (L2/neutral) are connected and always connect to the motor T1 & T2 (colors to be determined).
3 connects to to neutral (L2)
4 isn't connected in FWD
5 - 6 (L1/hot) are connected and always connect to the motor T3 & T4 (colors to be determined).

In REV
1 - 2 (L2/neutral) are connected & motor T1 & T2
3 is not connected.
4 is connected to 6 (L1/hot))
5 - 6 (L1/hot) are connected & motor T3 & T4

So switching FWD/REV switches hot/neutral on 3 & 4
Switch wiring for 1 -2 (L1) & 5 - 6 (L2) complete
3 & 4 reverse the motor.

The motor.
Blue connects to white/neutral on the Sears switch.
Green connects to Line/hot (L1) on the Sears switch.
Black & Red reverse the motor direction and are most likely the field windings. Test all this with your VOM first!!!!!!!! Assuming you find the field wiring, try one way and if it runs backwards, swap them.

This link is Matthias Wandal's web site and a good read on reversing motors, but you can scroll down the end for a quick read of what you are interested in. A pretty interesting engineer in Canada. Mostly does shop made wood working tools, lately has started to venture into metal. If you ever want to play with gears he has a pretty neat app.

View attachment 495728
View attachment 495733

Ron, thank you. Great information and that link to Matthias Wandal's website was great. As mentioned, is not the teacher. It is the student. Takes me more time to digest and understand.

I will work on it again this afternoon. Wife had other plans for this morning. I am getting dragged out of the house.

 

[Shiseiji]

Ron, thank you. Great information and that link to Matthias Wandal's website was great. As mentioned, is not the teacher. It is the student. Takes me more time to digest and understand.

I will work on it again this afternoon. Wife had other plans for this morning. I am getting dragged out of the house.

Well I've had some pretty crappy instructors LOL. Hope this helps, and if I'm screwed up someone speaks up. Domestic tranquility is important, comes right after common defense I repeated my "This is a hobby." the other day. Other things often are far more important. Glad you enjoyed Matthias' site.

 

[wachuko]

Am I understanding this correctly?? Looking at the diagram in the motor:



I have five wires in the motor... Terminal 3 is empty since this is a No-Thermal Protection setup.

What do I do with Terminal 4 (Yellow) from the motor? I can't follow the line. I do not have any terminals in the center of the drum switch... what does that mean in the diagram?

Is 5 (coming from the motor) supposed to be connected/jumped between 1 and 4 in the switch?

Is 6 (coming from the motor) supposed to be connected/jumped between 5 and 6 in the switch?

Where are the incoming 120 volt lines actually need to be connected to?



This is confusing as heck for me... To relief some stress, replace the metal flexible conduit for non-metallic. And crimped terminals on each wire. Will be using those press in connectors instead of the yellow wire connectors that were in there.