Got My New Pm-1340gt Lathe Last Night

[sanddan]

Mike, I thought of you when I posted those pictures. I'm not as neat and tidy as you are but even for me my shop is a huge mess.

Jim, thanks for the offer. Glad you are close, I need to come by for a visit some time. I'm sure this electrical stuff is old hat for you but I'm more familiar with packaging electrical components than actually doing the electrical wiring part. I always had an electrical engineer managing that part of the project, I just had to make sure I gave him enough room to do his thing.

 

[JimDawson]

Come on by anytime. I'll PM my phone number and address.

The problem with wiring up something like the lathe is that you get one chance to get everything right. I'm sure you know all about the magic smoke things run on.

 

[zmotorsports]

Don't give me too much credit there Dan, when I get knee deep into a project my shop can get feeling a little tight and cluttered. Drives me crazy, must be the OCD that kicks in.

Mike.

 

[joshua43214]

For the transformer wiring, you have two options:
Run both hot legs and no neutral to the 0 and 220 inputs for 220ish V power.
Run a hot leg to the 110V and the neutral to the 110V for 110ish V power.
No matter what you do, ground the machine!

Here is the wiring diagram I used to wire my factory 3phase controls to the VFD

I added a single pole three position switch for jogging and a rheostat for speed. I think it all cost about $20.00 or so.

I left all the factory stuff in place and just disconnected the harness from the run switch. I then added some jumper wires to fool the power relay into thinking that the run switch is always off and I let the forward contactor turn the VFD on and off. So the big red button turns the VFD on and off, and the factory control board does nothing more than switch power to the VFD and provide 24V for the lamp. I put all the diodes behind the controls in the front.
I have not gotten around to finishing the diagram for the control panel yet. If I get it done in a timely fashion I will post it here for you.
I started a thread over in the electrical forum titled something like "VFD's and Contactors," it has some discussion that led me to my design and more details.

 

[mksj]

You would probably be better off to use the E-Stop to interrupt P24 to get the benefit of quick braking in an emergency, of course when you reset the E-Stop the machine will restart. The VFD can be programmed to use some of the regenerative energy for braking when spinning with power loss, but it is not as effective as braking with the VFD powered. I still believe the single relay design is safer and is inexpensive if you want a minimal system. In your design above, I would connect the JOG to the center spindle stop position so it only operates when the machine is in the stop position. The stock power transformer is 24VAC which is what is used on the contactors, although the smaller power relay is 24VDC which is run off a small bridge rectifier.

This is a simple alternative that offers additional safety features and does not power down the VFD. The cost a 4 pole relay is about $15, and has a mechanical service life of 10,000,000 cycles. One can use a 2 or 3 pole power switch to disconnect power and use the stock 24VAC transformer to power the light.

 

[sanddan]

Mark,

That schematic is the one I am following. I have been doing the external bits, running the power to a NEMA box for the VFD and getting ready to run the motor wires. I mounted the extra switches and Pot to the switch panel. I have to pickup some 12ga wire this morning and then I can get the supply power and motor wires routed. Last will be the control wires and programming. I did my box for the VFD similar to Mike's rather than using a cord and plug to the wall outlet. If I don't like it later on I might mount the box to the end of the lathe stand. I don't think I'll be moving the lathe to another spot in the shop so the wall mounted box should work ok.

Dan

 

[sanddan]

It lives!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Huge thanks to Mark (mksj) for the schematics, programming info and general help and also Mike (zmotorsports) for inspiration as you can see that I took many ideas on the electrical layout from his installation. The lathe started up first time and all functions work as I had hoped. The frequency pot was working backwards which was fixed by a swap of 2 wires. The wiring was a long and tedious process, about 10 hrs total, and I still have to figure out how I'm going to do the DRO and accessory light. I am running out of access to the wiring box on the lathe, only one cable port left and 3 cables required. I could just plug the DRO into the wall outlet but I like the idea of having everything turned on/off with one power switch. I have the splash shield off as it made the access to the motor mounting bolts easier and I needed it off for the DRO install anyway so I can't mount the light yet so I will figure out the wiring later. The finish on this lathe is very nice, much better than my Chinese made Enco. I feel pretty good about my purchase and I haven't even made any chips yet. Still some work to do but making progress.

 

[tmarks11]

nice. you might want to put an exhaust fan on the cabinet that has the vfd in it.

 

[David VanNorman]

Looks good .I think it would be good to put a muffin fan on the box with the VFD

 

[mksj]

Hi Dan,
Glad you got everything working and programmed, the wiring always takes longer than you think. As you did, always a good idea to use wiring labels. One other thing that helps, is strip some of the control cabling and use the colored wire for wiring the control board. Easier to follow when you start getting more wires.

On the cooling, you may do fine with passive cooling in the cabinet with some vents and adjusting the VFD fan settings B092. I have used Maurice Franklin Screened Aluminum louvers/soffits, they come in different sizes, usually two 4" seem to work well. One under the VFD, the other above the VFD either on the top or on the hinge side near the top. You can set the VFD fan for continuous run '00", run only when on "01", or via temp sensor on the heat sink "02". Would probably use 01 and see how that works, otherwise 00. I do not find that the VFD heat sink ever get too hot to touch, I am using the "02" setting with the VFD in the left cabinet. On smaller cabinets or if you have a heat issue, a muffin fan at the bottom vent that puts positive pressure in the cabinet is usually recommended.

The new chucks look really nice, look forward to your review/comments.

Otherwise, great that you have it up and running.
Mark

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