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What are factors for what "class" of lathe to buy?
- Thread starter skcncx
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When you add in the stand, shipping and tax, yes it is close to that.
I bought mine before the big run up in prices, today I would probably do as you say and find a good Hardinge.
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- Jan 31, 2016
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Highway robbery ! I just can't see it with so many used lathes out there . I guess it's the same with cars , buying new vs. buying used . New you know what your getting and have a service dept supporting you .
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- Feb 25, 2021
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Here you go Dave, a Hardinge at a special price ...Was looking at Flea Bay for a Hardinge X and Z cross slide . Dang , they're up there too now . There used to be tons of this stuff cheap , guess those days are over .
I know, but paper shopping is about all I've got as with all the valued opinions on this thread and forum. I can't even go to PM and see them... they don't have them. I've read just about every 1228 post I could find, watched an 8 part series from Frank Hoose on this lathe. Read the good bad and ugly and I realize, you are likely to hear more frustration for a given product in reviews than the mostly satisfied users who don't go out of their way to just say "it works as it should".
I to wish there were more manufacturers in this area of smaller lathes... seems like you just have 1 or two major manufacturers...then pick your seller.
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So, reading this thread, and having participated in dozens of similar ones I just want to point out a few things. You talk about classes of lathes and I think that's a good analogy, kinda like what class boxers fall into. There are lightweights, middle weights and heavyweights and many more divisions than I know.
The most important thing I see here is weight of the machine in question. Someone on here said once "you can't add iron" What that means to me is you can add accessories, tooling, DRO's, and all sorts of things to make your machine more useful but you're stuck with the base castings your machine came with. Since you have a 6x18 you already know the limitations of a small machine so we don't need to explain that.
Just looking at the specs from PM the 12x28 weighs in at 490lbs without stand, while the 12x36 is 1200lbs with the stand. That's a big difference that will impact the cuts you'll be able to make with each machine, kinda like putting a bantam weight fighter against a middleweight. The technique can be great for either but in the end the middle weight will win most of the time.
Speaking of stands....
You mentioned using a toolbox on wheels for your stand. While that may work I suspect you won't be happy with it in the long run, toolboxes just aren't built to take that kind of weight on top and when you add tooling it's easy to exceed the overall capacity. Remember this a dynamic load, not static like a drawer full of tools.
What I'm planning on is building a tube steel stand with space to accommodate toolboxes. The stand itself will have both wheels and leveling feet, I have the cheap Chinese knock-off leveling feet but honestly I think cast iron wheels with separate leveling feet will be the way to go. I also want to build fine lathe leveling into the top of the stand so I don't have to lay on the ground so much.
@davidpbest has a great write up on the stand he built for his PM 1340, also many other projects including how to make a solid plinth to increase the rigidity of any lathe.
So for me I'd say you're really looking at two classes of machines between the ones you mentioned above. Taiwan builds better machines but precision mostly depends on how you use the tools, at least at the hobby level. For the extra $600 in my mind it's an easy decision, mass wins almost every time when it comes to machine tools. You may never need it for your application but if you do you'll be happy it's there.
Cheers,
John
A good quality 3 jaw chuck for me to start and will last a long time before I want/need the additional 4 jaw... unless I turn parts a 3 jaw won't work for. I asked John from sales at PM... he didn't really recommend their adjustable 3 jaw for the 1228... somewhat over classed for it... the 1236T he did for... that would have been a better pairing... that was just his perspective. I'm not sure on the collet chuck... I'll let need drive that, but ER40 is likely what I'd lean to... though 5C has their advantages. I have a good friend who owns a machine shop but even his tool room lathes are 3 times bigger than anything I would consider and they mainly use 3 jaw chucks... go figure.... I guess it's hyper dependent on what you are doing. I have a 4 jaw for my atlas 618 but have yet to use it.Having owned a 1340GT and working with many other individuals with different lathes, I would recommend the 1236T over the 1228, even though on paper the 1228 appears to offer more. If you look at the numbers and compare machines it really doesn't tell you much about how they work and operate. The 1236T/1340GT are the same basic lathe other than the size there are some small manufacturing difference but will not be noticeable in the hobby environment. I would recommend 3 phase and you can do a VFD basic install which is outlined another thread. You want to go with BXA tooling. Having a decent 3J, 4J and possibly a collet chuck should be on your short list. QMT/PM has very good Taiwanese chucks, I would recommend a set-tru style for the 3J as it is a much higher quality. I find most of the stock chucks if they are offered at this level machines to be quite poor, so consider using it on a rotary table or door stop. Tooling adds up, but you can spread those costs over time.
6″ Adjustable Ultra Precision 3 Jaw Chuck, D1-4 Mount – Precision Matthews Machinery Co.
www.precisionmatthews.com
8″ High Precision 4 Jaw Lathe Chuck, D1-4 Mount – Precision Matthews Machinery Co.
On paper the 1228 complete or rather have a lot of overlapping features, that is why I'm considering it. Read both manuals, general operation is pretty equivalent ... but if you have to fight with the one to change gears and "work around" things that should just work then obviously manuals and spec sheets won't let you know that.
Well, the trick on the rolling tool chest bench is to lower it a bit with smaller casters or move them off to the side and it has to be a rolling chest that's considered a "workbench" as they are lower anyways because they are designed to be worked on... dedicated tool chest are too high. I'm 6' and I have my Atlas 618 on a rolling tool chest workbench and it's a few inches too low so I have some room to work with.... but agree ergonomics can be important because I have notifiable fatigue with longer sessions... constantly hunched over just too much.
I found if the cut off bar is not perfectly perpendicular to the work piece, it rubs and the fun sounds begin... I think a slipping belt has been a good safety feature for me.
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