Thanks for the explanation! So I get all the benefits of a 4 jaw independent and the speed of a scroll chuck.Think off a scroll chuck and then add a screw type adjustment on top of that that acts the same as an independent chuck. Look at the previous picture and you will see the carrier that is operated by the scroll and then the jaw position with a scroll adjuster between them,
You use the scroll to get the work in/out of the chuck and for repeat work that you do not need sub 0.001" accuracy on the repeat. You can tweak opposing jaws to null out any TIR if needed. As there are slight difference in jaw torquing, this accounts for a slight variation with repeat use of the scroll. The other plus of this chuck is three-fold, first it can hold work down to 0.2" because the jaws are narrow at the tips, second is it can hold work more securely because of the opposing jaws, and third you can compensate for holding power if the work is not perfectly cylindrical.
Round, square , odd shaped stuff it works for… then the only thing I’d likely need a 3 jaw for is if I plan to turn hex stock… i think that profile needs a 3 or 6 jaw.
I assume plain back means it’s flat and then any 6” d1-4 it’ll adapt to for mounting to lathe. I assume there’s a standard for mating plain back chucks to d1-4 backing plates. Thanks for the tip on saving $ with the more cost effective backing plate, that doesn’t have to be a bison brand.
So I assume for most work on the 1340gt an 8” chuck is a good size though jaws could get close to interfering with ways.. but I’ll turn most diameters 2” and less. Can reverse the jaws as well.