Keep PM-1236T or get back in line for PM-1340GT?

Don’t make a decision you’re going to regret.
If you think you want the 1340GT, get it!
It’s the one I want & so a couple of months ago I placed the order & made the down payment!
I’m following the guys’ advice around here, “buy once, cry once”...,...,...I’m buying once & I’m most definitely going to cry once!


This is just my .02
I'm not sure what I want :) or will wish which I should have gotten. Both of these are the right size/class of lathe for me. Since they are so similar, I'd prefer they only offered one... decision made then and I don't have to slice/parse the slight similarities and differences.

If I do switch my order, I'll only regret the wait while I'm waiting, not after it's here. Cost between the two is about $1,200, since it's about $500 more for just the lathe and you must get your own chuck, figured $700 for that. Not much in the end.
 
To alleviate that fear you should get a 1440GT. It is a great fear reducer.
ha, funny how all this started. Atas 618, great to test my desire for this stuff... then considered the PM-1228 as a big upgrade... but thought, I really want more quality... landed on PM-1236T Taiwanese built... and now thinking... just a little more wait & cost for 1340GT. 1440GT... I guess I just need a few days.... though, the extra $4K, that get's me pretty far into a purchase of a benchtop mill.
 
I owned the 1340GT previously, started out wanting something smaller, then 1236 but ended up with the 1340GT. Although I was space limited (1 car garage for my shop at the time), the 1340GT gives one a bit more dimensional space. So you also need to think of the size chuck and also the jaws hanging out. Going with a Taiwanese (or similar) machine was important because of previous QC issues I had with a Chinese mill. The 1236T and the 1340GT are basically the same lathe other than the slightly taller headstock. Going to the 1440GT is a big jump up in cost, and at that price range there are a number of other lathes to consider, including some good used machines. As they get bigger, they more stable, but are harder to move.

So a few things about the 1236T vs. the 1340GT. The 1236T comes with an economy chuck, which you will probably replace in short order for a better chuck. So yes it comes with a chuck, but I would recommend their 6" Adjustable Ultra Precision 3 Jaw Chuck, D1-4 Mount in either case. Probably add the 8″ High Precision 4 Jaw Independent Lathe Chuck, D1-4 Mount and their 5C (or ER40) Adjustable Collet Chuck, D1-4 Mount. At the end of the day you will want/need all three, they all serve a different use, and they are reasonably priced. This makes the price difference between the lathes around $700. I would also recommend going 3 phase, the motors will last a lot longer and you will not be limited as to stop/starts, and you will get better surface finish. How you power it is your choice, there is some posted information on the basic VFD install available through QMT and also posted in this site. Yep, adds a bit more cost but gives way more control over the lathe. In my case with the 1340GT the quick electronic braking was a must. My reflexes just were getting a bit slower as I got older.

Unfortunately tooling up for the lathe is an expensive proposition, and easy to spend a substantial amount doing so. The one thing I found out the hard way, was buying cheap, I almost always ended up replacing it and buying better quality that I have used ever since. In particular with chucks and tooling, I must have gone through a 1/2 dozen chucks that were crap, and finally bought some decent ones that I have been using for many years.
 
Free shipping to California. :)
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I would recommend their 6" Adjustable Ultra Precision 3 Jaw Chuck,
I was eye balling that one as well. Also considering a Toolmex set tru chuck, but similar size, it's about $1200 vs the $700 QMT one.

Not sure what size, it seems 6", any reason not to get an 8" 3 jaw? Seem the 1236 and 1340 are usually paired with 6" 3 jaw and 8" 4 jaw... not sure if there's a primary reason.

I would also recommend going 3 phase, the motors will last a lot longer and you will not be limited as to stop/starts,
I eventually plan on 3 phase, VFD convert but went single so it would be easier to get started.

Can you explain the "not be limited as to starts/stops?" Is that because without electric braking it takes a while to spin down to a full stop? I much prefer electric, fast braking as well. Maybe if I switch my order and wait longer, just go 3 phase from the get go.

there is some posted information on the basic VFD install available through QMT and also posted in this site.
Thanks, I have those documents! QMT actually referred me to this site.. they don't support the conversion.

Unfortunately tooling up for the lathe is an expensive proposition, and easy to spend a substantial amount doing so
Yea, I'm feeling that. I've sourced a good starter amount of tooling so far.. 5-6 tool holders (screw type for carbide inserts), Aikron DRO, Aloris BXA post, tail stock chuck, precision level, a few BXA tool holders... I'm easily over $1k in just "getting started" set.
 
Either way, if I decide to defer or just pick up on my current order... I'll have a great lathe.
That is it in a nut shell, both are great lathes that will give you many years of enjoyment.

Mark mentioned the economy chuck that comes with the 1236T, it is average at best, but it does work. It doesn’t have any manufacturers markings on it, so I assume it is Chinese. Mine came with about 0.007” runout, I disassembled it and cleaned it and it wasn’t any better, but after some use it is now about 0.002”. I suspect there was a burr in there somewhere I didn’t find when cleaning it and eventually wore off. The included chuck did have an influence on my decision to get the 1236T, but I wrongly assumed since I was buying a Taiwanese lathe that a Taiwanese chuck was included. I don’t use it all that often, I prefer to use collet chucks or my 4 jaw chuck. If you buy a 3 jaw chuck, I would get one with replaceable top jaws so that you can make custom top jaws. I have a 5” Bison 3 jaw from my old lathe that I was considering using on my lathe because of the top jaws, but it fits perfectly on my dividing head, so that is it’s new home.
 
That is it in a nut shell, both are great lathes that will give you many years of enjoyment.

Mark mentioned the economy chuck that comes with the 1236T, it is average at best, but it does work. It doesn’t have any manufacturers markings on it, so I assume it is Chinese. Mine came with about 0.007” runout, I disassembled it and cleaned it and it wasn’t any better, but after some use it is now about 0.002”. I suspect there was a burr in there somewhere I didn’t find when cleaning it and eventually wore off. The included chuck did have an influence on my decision to get the 1236T, but I wrongly assumed since I was buying a Taiwanese lathe that a Taiwanese chuck was included. I don’t use it all that often, I prefer to use collet chucks or my 4 jaw chuck. If you buy a 3 jaw chuck, I would get one with replaceable top jaws so that you can make custom top jaws. I have a 5” Bison 3 jaw from my old lathe that I was considering using on my lathe because of the top jaws, but it fits perfectly on my dividing head, so that is it’s new home.
Yea, hear you on the chuck... I was planning to source another, figured that was in the mix soon. Though, like you did, the economy chuck, if I keep my 1236T order, could be used in some way for mill work. At the same time, it will be good enough with my beginner skill level.

Although, I think I'm talking myself into switching. I'll also switch to 3phase and at least start with a basic VDF setup.... The 3 phase is even farther out, May/June 2023.... oh well, I can and have plenty other projects so the wait is not preferred but I have that luxury as it's all hobby related.
 
The optional 6" set true style scroll and 8" independent QMT/PM chucks are made in Taiwan and they both offer very good quality/vale, and I see no reason to pay more at this point. The value of a good chuck is not only the runout (TIR) but also the grind of the jaws and the skew when clamping stock. I have also had issues with balance problems of cheaper chucks due to irregular castings, this can be a significant issue with the 1236T/1340GT because they are light weight lathes. The TIR of a chuck is primarily an issue if you chuck up your stock multiple times and each time the chuck will hold the stock slightly different. A 8" scroll chuck is pretty darn big, in particular for this lathe. Most people prefer a 6.3" (160 mm), and for bigger stock use a 4J 8" independent. That being said, if you just wanted one chuck to do it all, you might look at the Bison 4 jaw 8" combination chuck, this is a scroll plus independent in the same chuck. It is easy to get the stock in/out and dial down the TIR, the scroll repeats to around 0.001", but it is a heavy chuck around 65 lbs. I use to use the combination chuck and the 5C for almost all of my turning, but these days I am back to using my 6" PBA setrite (set-Tru) 3J because it is less cumbersome switching chucks.

A single phase motor usually used an electrolytic start capacitor which is energized for a very short period when starting the motor, the capacitor can heat up very quickly with repeated on/off cycles and will fail. The other concern with single phase motors, is that if the motor does not wind down before you reverse it, it can continue in the same direction say if you through the spindle switch from forward immediately into reverse.

A single phase motor also delivers power in pulses, which can show up in the surface finish of the piece you are turning, a 3 phase motor the power delivery is smoother because each wave is staggered by 120 degrees. The issue with buying a single phase lathe and then converting it to 3 phase at a later point is that both of these lathes have very small space for the motor. You are very limited to the type of motor that will fit and a replacement motor new can be $600+ unless you get lucky and find one on eBay. There are numerous threads on replacement motors for these lathes. The 1236T the motor space is even smaller, so a very tight fit. The stock 3 phase motor for these lathes works well enough and I have not heard of any issues with it.

You can get very deep in the hole when tooling up, I did it over years as I learned more, and got rid of some of my initial purchasing mistakes. If you plan on keeping your machines for a long time (and using them), then you are left with only buying consumables down the line.

If I recall, Mike's (Aukai) is 3 phase with a VFD, would be a good deal if shipping could be worked out.

Bison 8 Inch Combination Chuck, note the clearance to ways can be an issue when holding stock. Also be mindful that the jaws have a maximum extension to keep enough teeth in the scroll portion of the chuck.
Bison 8 Inch Combination Chuck.jpg

PBA 6.3 Inch 3J Scroll Setrite
PBA 6 onch 3 Jaw Scroll.jpg

PM/QMT 8 4 Jaw Independent (jaws were offset to bore/thread a hole off center)
PM 8 4 Jaw Independent.jpg

5C chuck at speed, much safer for the hands when working close to the chuck.
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The TIR of a chuck is primarily an issue if you chuck up your stock multiple times and each time the chuck will hold the stock slightly different. A 8" scroll chuck is pretty darn big, in particular for this lathe. Most people prefer a 6.3" (160 mm), and for bigger stock use a 4J 8" independent. That being said, if you just wanted one chuck to do it all, you might look at the Bison 4 jaw 8" combination chuck, this is a scroll plus independent in the same chuck.
I don't see myself changing chucks at lot and when using my Atlas 618, I did find myself re-chucking parts about half the time... so TIR is somewhat important to me. So far, all I've used is a 3 jaw scroll chuck.

I was not aware of a combination chuck.... I'll have to check that out.

I did notice the PM set tru 3 jaw was balanced and that seems like a great aspect to their chuck since these lathes can't overcome an imbalanced chuck with just their mass.

A single phase motor also delivers power in pulses, which can show up in the surface finish of the piece you are turning, a 3 phase motor the power delivery is smoother because each wave is staggered by 120 degrees. The issue with buying a single phase lathe and then converting it to 3 phase at a later point is that both of these lathes have very small space for the motor. You are very limited to the type of motor that will fit and a replacement motor new can be $600+ unless you get lucky and find one on eBay. There are numerous threads on replacement motors for these lathes. The 1236T the motor space is even smaller, so a very tight fit. The stock 3 phase motor for these lathes works well enough and I have not heard of any issues with it.
I was antsy to get my PM-1236T order in a few months ago and settled on single phase (quicker shipping and less hassle to get started) but I know in the end a 3 phase is better... the braking feature will become a big deal for me. Already aware of the limited options and tight fit... so now... seems like going 3 phase really is the better option from the get go... and certainly will need to rely on all the VFD/wire schematics already posted on this site... I can do the physical wiring up but must rely on some documentation.

Thanks for all your input!
 
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