Truly fantastic results thus far.
Another possibility for positioning the sources might be to 3d print the complex shape and use lead inserts. For a single use one could print the punch(es) to press the lead into the complex piece.
This is getting exciting enough to spin a board.
@homebrewed what's your front end (analog circuitry) look like again?
To minimize the effects of power supply noise you could run off a small 6V battery. I have a lead acid gel battery for this purpose. Did this for my radar chronometer. 50/60 Hz noise would be greatly diminished. The output voltage is about 6.4V. I ran it through an LDO regulator to get 5V, and a second 3.3V regulator for my analog circuitry. If I recall correctly, I'm using very low noise op amps similar to what
@graham-xrf chose.
The analog portion of my setup consists of two separate boards. The first is the pocketgeiger, link to Sparkfun's schematic
here. The back of the board has a footprint for JP2, which might be for testing the board; or perhaps an option for a surface mount header setup. I haven't checked the spacing to see if the header hypothesis makes sense or not. Soldering wires to board ground and PS4 on JP2, I tapped into the output of U1B. U3 is a quad open-collector comparator that is used to detect pulses, so its output is no good for our purposes.
Along the way I found that the switching regulator used to generate the 27V bias for the detector (and also 9V for the amplifiers/comparators) was injecting too much noise into the analog circuit path. Quite possibly because I removed the copper shield over the detector. I think it's necessary to remove the shield to avoid absorbing our lower-energy xrays. So I removed the switcher and am now biasing the detector with an outboard linear power supply, using PS6 on JP2. Removing the switcher also meant I had to go with an outboard supply for the amplifiers as well.
While looking at the output of U1B I saw that the pulse amplitude was pretty low so decided to design a signal conditioning board to boost the signal -- idea being to get a better match to the range of a teensy's ADC. Since the pocketgeiger circuitry uses a single supply, its quiescent output was (approximately) Vcc/2 so I also AC coupled the input to my signal conditioner. Here is a copy of the schematic:
The signal conditioner was a pure shot in the dark and shows it. The input's RC time constant is ridiculously long so it takes a long time to settle down when everything is turned on It uses a 10-turn trimmer to adjust offset: and the trimmer's input voltages are right off the +/- 10V supplies so there's no PSRR. The choice of opamps was what I had around, not the greatest in the world for noise performance. The whole thing picks up noise from the mains like crazy so opening up my box to adjust the trimmer is a pain.
Going back to the pocketgeiger for a moment, I also swapped out the LMC662 for a lower-noise dual from Analog Devices (IIRC, an AD8646), but that part could only handle a 5V supply. So I also had to swap out the 9V regulator for a 5V one. I did it that way because I didn't want to have the need for a +10 AND a +5 bench supply.
I think a better approach would be to redesign the signal conditioner to use amplifiers that work with +/- 5V supplies. That would simplify things a bit. Also, I'm currently just using the gain-of-10 signal path so U2 isn't being used. Just as well
. If offset adjust _is_ needed, use a digital pot instead and tweak it remotely. However, a good opamp nowadays should be pretty darned good on its own when used in a 10X gain configuration.
One thing to consider going forward: the AD7667 and its cousins have a 2.7V Vref so it, effectively, has higher "gain" than the T4's ADC, whose Aref is hardwired to 3.3V.