Rebuilding a cheap lathe

[GrifterGuru]

That's a new one. I've heard ATF harms paint.

Mineral spirits, WD-40, and kerosene are all better options, IMO

If you have ever tried to get the paint off a 7x bed, you will know how difficult that can be, even with chemicals helping!

WD40, Paraffin and Methylated spirits are all useful.

If I really want to cut through oils/greases though I get the Cellulose thinners out!

 

[SouthernChap]

First of all, I really want to thank everyone who took the time to chuck their two cents into the conversation. Some of the conversation went over my head, but that's OK, I am now at least a little bit familiar with some terms and such that I hadn't heard before. Thank you all.

Now the bad news.

This motor doesn't work ... at all. I'm reasonably decent with electronics and in my (not professional but none-the-less experienced) opinion, the motor is toast. It's not worth restoring.

A replacement is $170 + taxes & shipping.

Now I have to ask myself if I want to spend $200(ish) on a motor (plus all the other things that need to be replaced) for a lathe that is quite a bit smaller than what I want.

And the answer is: No. No I don't. I'd rather put that money toward a new lathe.

Dag nabbit all.

P.S. The belt is fine. There's no need to replace the belt.

Somewhere along my reading of this thread I missed that you had a definite want for something larger.

So, sorry about that.

Yeah, so, now you have the choice between something more expensive, new and bigger (and it seems the people who have bought from PM who regret it are rare, so good choice there, I'd say) or , less expensive (and likely with a lot of very useful tooling into the bargain), used and made to old fashioned high standards 'old American Iron'.

Obviously the former comes with PM's excellent support and backup, the latter with the assurance that the lathe was initially built to high standards.

Either way you'll likely end up with a good lathe that will do what you need.

 

[mac1911]

I am an absolute beginner. I've never turned a piece of metal in my life. I've always been a woodchuck.

Recently there were a few parts I wanted machined and rather than taking them to the local shop, I decided to go with the much more expensive option and make them myself. I started looking for a lathe and mill, and wow, the MUCH more expensive route. I don't mind the expense, though, if I end up enjoying the hobby.

I was talking to someone about my plan and he offered me a cheap Harbor Freight 7"x10" lathe that he had and wasn't using. It's much smaller than what I was looking at, but it does seem like a great place to start. I can get some experience with this little thing and then move on to the one I picked out if I find I enjoy doing this stuff.

The machine is in bad shape, though. All the levers are frozen and everything is covered in caked-on sawdust and grease. I am confident that I can clean it up and I found a website that has all the parts available for whatever I may need to replace (Little Machine Shop). There are a few things that I don't know and can't seem to find answers to.

1) Does it matter what I clean all these parts with? More specifically, is there anything that I SHOULD NOT clean them with? I bought some generic de-greaser for the task, but if there's something more appropriate, I'd like to know.

2) Should I coat all the parts in some sort of oil when I put it back together? If so, what kind of oil?

3) Are there any parts that fall into the "well, as long as you have the machine taken apart, you might as well replace the" category? I already plan to replace the belt but beyond that, I'd like to know if there's anything I should go ahead and replace while the machine is taken apart.

4) Is there anything else I should know before I begin this process? At this point, I don't even know what questions I should be asking.

Thanks for you help,
Eric

Will this lathe be big enough for what you plan to make?
I like hydraulic oil that specifies it has anti corrosive Inhibitors in it for all bare metal
I also use a variety of spray type metal protectants. My stuff lives in a un heated garage. Gets mighty damp in there.

 

[Jake M]

I like hydraulic oil that specifies it has anti corrosive Inhibitors in it for all bare metal

Without taking away from what you're saying here (It's valid good advice), just to toss this out about oils-

The most accessible and appropriate hydraulic oils are going to be R&O, or AW. Both of those have corrosion protection, as it is built in to both designations. Writing that separately on the label is redundant, so it kinda comes down to if the target audience is expected to already know that or not.
That doesn't change what you're saying (and I agree), but that tidbit just opens up more valid options on any given store shelf. That can be useful when you are looking for small quantities, and the smallest "common" container is a five gallon pail.

 

[tq60]

Pin for tractor...

Use a bolt?

Our back hoe attachment for the bobcat broke, had to make Doubling plates to repair/improve, but the pivot pins were worn, one broken.

Was 1.25 diameter, off the shelf pins too short, and TSC had one for $19.95.

Visited our local bolt store, got some grade 8 bolts with length such that none are in the pivot area.

Purchased castle nuts and drilled hole for cotter key.

This allowed for tightening the plates and for easier extraction later, and no need to insert a pin through some hole.

If metric size, get metric bolt.

The manufacturer likely used standard sizes to reduce cost.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[RaisedByWolves]

@SouthernChap

Say it how you mean it. IF it continues it will become just as bad and unwelcoming as "Practical Machinist" and I have seen how bad that is.

I’ve been in the trades for decades and dealt with “shopshit” for forever and even I don’t like PM.

I may be going out on a limb here, but I don’t think JimF came off right in what he posted vs being antagonistic.

IIRC he most likely has a lot of stuff to part with and was more thinking out loud, least that’s how I took it.

In any case I just put problem posters on ignore anymore, the few that are here that is.

 

[455dan]

That's a new one. I've heard ATF harms paint.

Mineral spirits, WD-40, and kerosene are all better options, IMO

I will add a do not use and that is Brake Cleaner on the stands or bed paint, instantly ate whatever kind of paint was used on the mine, I did find that of all things spraying silicone on some of the goo worked pretty good.

 

[matthewsx]

@Eric S Dunn

So glad you’re still here with us. You can ignore all the back and forth from folks who take offense, or give it when someone else thinks differently than them.

Sounds like you’ve tracked down the main problem with the machine you have and are ready to move on. Since you got it free you can either give it away, sell it, or part it out depending on your wishes.

From the projects you’ve told us about (tractor repair) I’d honestly recommend going for a machine that’ll work for that right away. You have lots of choices, new or used US or foreign, Taiwan or China, etc.

Since you were willing to fix the mini lathe (and you own a tractor) I assume you’re okay with doing a little work to get what you want at a good price. Used machines can be a great value as long as you don’t get something that needs major repair before you can use it.

I have a Taiwan built older 12 x 36 belt drive that I think is about the right size for a hobby shop. But, what makes sense for you probably depends on what’s available near you and/or if you’re looking at new machines.

I’d recommend starting a new thread with questions about machines that are available new or used that you’re thinking about. The guys who want to fight it out over old posts, or oils, or cleaning products can do so in this thread or some other.

John

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Another thought on this is to set it aside and see if a cheap motor option pops up.

 

[mac1911]

Another thought on this is to set it aside and see if a cheap motor option pops up.

Something like this can come in handy
If you have space to put it aside even better
I met a guy with a beat up mini lathe he uses to rough cut rusty stock