Leveling a Surface Grinder

Their all pretty much standard wheels you would find in any shop, I've used them all..

The blue will be your standard middle of the road grinding wheel for general work, the white is going to be a softer wheel and will run cooler but break down easier than the blue.

What you want to pay attention to is the grit and the wheel composition. There will be a code on the label, Im betting the blue is somewhere around a 46 in a vitrified bond denoted with a V. The white wheels are likely a more open bond .

This guy does a decent job of breaking things down.


Yes sir, I was very fortunate to get all these wheels with the machines. Especially the ones for the Medina end grinder. Betting those are hard to come by and expensive to boot. Thank you for your help, as I said before, I am new to grinding but looking forward to learning it. One quick question, where would I find a wheel hub remover? I assume it’s a special threaded puller kind of like an old a/c clutch hub puller. I plan on ordering more hubs and balancing the wheel as I install them on the hubs
 
Thank you for responding. The insulator pads are in great shape. The overall machine is in great condition. I’m going to replace the oil lines while I have the table removed. There is one spot that has a litttle scoring on the flat way for the back and forth travel. Guessing the oiler was clogged on that side. I will contact your guy for the manual. I really appreciate your help
Happy to help. Jim has the oil line and fittings if you need them, as well as the factory oil. One gallon will last you a long time. Is your grinder a cable drive table, or rack/gear?
 
Yes sir, I was very fortunate to get all these wheels with the machines. Especially the ones for the Medina end grinder. Betting those are hard to come by and expensive to boot. Thank you for your help, as I said before, I am new to grinding but looking forward to learning it. One quick question, where would I find a wheel hub remover? I assume it’s a special threaded puller kind of like an old a/c clutch hub puller. I plan on ordering more hubs and balancing the wheel as I install them on the hubs


Save your money.

We stopped balancing hubs and wheels decades ago with no Ill results.

I understand grinders come with balancers and all the youtoob gurus show this being done, but you can do fine without it.


Most wheels will be stamped with “Bal” and an arrow. Put the wheel on the hub, point the arrow up and with it resting on the hub via gravity tighten the ring.

This gets you most of the way there and dressing the outer rim, and if you like, the sides is plenty good for what most people do.


Been running the same two Harig grinders for 30+ years, this way and the spindle bearings are the least of these grinders problems. Same for our huge Gallmeyer/Livingston with a 30” wheel and our brand new Sharp 18-34.

Flame suit on.
 
Happy to help. Jim has the oil line and fittings if you need them, as well as the factory oil. One gallon will last you a long time. Is your grinder a cable drive table, or rack/gear?
It’s a rack n gear
 
Happy to help. Jim has the oil line and fittings if you need them, as well as the factory oil. One gallon will last you a long time. Is your grinder a cable drive table, or rack/gear?
Save your money.

We stopped balancing hubs and wheels decades ago with no Ill results.

I understand grinders come with balancers and all the youtoob gurus show this being done, but you can do fine without it.


Most wheels will be stamped with “Bal” and an arrow. Put the wheel on the hub, point the arrow up and with it resting on the hub via gravity tighten the ring.

This gets you most of the way there and dressing the outer rim, and if you like, the sides is plenty good for what most people do.


Been running the same two Harig grinders for 30+ years, this way and the spindle bearings are the least of these grinders problems. Same for our huge Gallmeyer/Livingston with a 30” wheel and our brand new Sharp 18-34.

Flame suit on.
thank you for saving me the money and the headache,lol
 
Happy to help. Jim has the oil line and fittings if you need them, as well as the factory oil. One gallon will last you a long time. Is your grinder a cable drive table, or rack/gear?
Got a roller bearing kit that came with the machine that I plan on installing while the table is off. The kit came from Dunbar , if you ever heard of them. Supposedly this kit is a back saver according to the guy I got the machines from. Hell, I looked the kit up and it’s like $650 if I had to buy it. He did say I would need to shim the rack gear because it raises the table .345
 
Got a roller bearing kit that came with the machine that I plan on installing while the table is off. The kit came from Dunbar , if you ever heard of them. Supposedly this kit is a back saver according to the guy I got the machines from. Hell, I looked the kit up and it’s like $650 if I had to buy it. He did say I would need to shim the rack gear because it raises the table .345
Also, I can still run the oil system with the roller kit
 
Save your money.

We stopped balancing hubs and wheels decades ago with no Ill results.

I understand grinders come with balancers and all the youtoob gurus show this being done, but you can do fine without it.


Most wheels will be stamped with “Bal” and an arrow. Put the wheel on the hub, point the arrow up and with it resting on the hub via gravity tighten the ring.

This gets you most of the way there and dressing the outer rim, and if you like, the sides is plenty good for what most people do.


Been running the same two Harig grinders for 30+ years, this way and the spindle bearings are the least of these grinders problems. Same for our huge Gallmeyer/Livingston with a 30” wheel and our brand new Sharp 18-34.

Flame suit on.
Any chance you have a recommendation on a diamond dressing tool that would get me going?
 
Any chance you have a recommendation on a diamond dressing tool that would get me going?
Standard Desmond diamond nib will work.

For just dressing the working edge of the wheel it does not need to be new and pointy. Dressing radai is another matter.

We use them until the diamond flies off into the ether.
 
Standard Desmond diamond nib will work.

For just dressing the working edge of the wheel it does not need to be new and pointy. Dressing radai is another matter.

We use them until the diamond flies off into the ether.
Ok, I will look at the Desmond. Thank you
 
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