Help wiring a Dayton motor SB9A

[Shackelford R]

There is no wiring diagram on either the South Bend Switch or the Dayton I took off.

Is there a way to test the thermal protection? Maybe resistance between P1 and P2 or?

I did separate all wires after I labeled and took notes of what went where.

Someone on another forum gave me a diagram. I've been using it to figure out what's what.

I am sure now that the gray wire is P1 and the Pink is T2.

Testing T8 to black which looks like T5 is the Beep to OL (out of limits).

I hope this makes sense Thank you for your time mark.

 

[markba633csi]

Good you got the motor diagram. P1 to P2 should be very low resistance like less than a couple ohms
So on your original hookup did T5 and T8 go to the middle two drum switch terminals?
3 and 4 on this diagram:
This is what I call a "hockey stick" switch

 

[markba633csi]

If your switch is the standard "hockey stick" type as above, then this is how it should connect:

 

[Shackelford R]

I get .12 ohms at P1 and P2

The middle of the switch were T8 orange or tan pic kind of sucks and P2 pink.

T5 is the unmarked and went to the power cord if I have my notes correct.

 

[Shackelford R]

Got it wired up per diagram but it hums real low but spins if I turn pullies by hand it will spin slow. I'm guessing its wired for 220V?

 

[Shackelford R]

Double post.

 

[Shackelford R]

I found a way to test the protection switch according to what I read online I checked resistance of P1 and P2 and its suppose to go to 0 Ohms and it did not so I am going to sat its bad, which would explain the way it was wired. So now I am trying to bypass it. I wish I still had the pictures of the way it was in the motor but they did not save on my phone.

 

[Shackelford R]

I'm still not having any luck. It spins but slow in one direction and faster in the other, I always here a pop before it gets to full speed (I figure this is the TP) and if its slow I can stop it by hand and if I give it a barely a tiny turn of the pulley it will spin in the opposite direction.

 

[Shackelford R]

Ok, so I am not much further I have tested the TP with heat it tested good it lost continuity when it got hot. it seams to be ok in one direction but not another but also spins both ways if I stop it with my hand in forward, but in reverse it speeds up until it clicks or pops than it stops. I disconnected the TP or tried too but same issue.
Here is a diagram of where I currently am. I will try again tomorrow. If it helps the switch is a South Bend Furnas R4.

 

[kajungizmo]

Hi!
I was following your thread, as i am in a similar situation. I bought an old SB 9C. When i got it the drum switch had been tampered with. Wiring was a total hack job and the motor only turned in one direction. I got mine sorted and running in both directions... for about 3 cycles. Then it quit. I took the motor apart and found the centrifugal switch just plain wore out.
Did you ever get yours running up to speed in both directions?

Kirk