Another SB9a rotary wiring question

This is amazing and so helpful! Much appreciated.

I come here as "a new kid" to soak up knowledge from people who gained that knowledge from their own blood, sweat and tears. That leaves me in a position with very little to give back. When the opportunity comes up, usually off topic, although in this case it is kinda related...

I noticed my air compressor has a 1.5 hp motor on it

You should stop there. It "could" be, however small air compressors tend to get rated a lot the same as vacuum cleaners. The shop vac type in particular. I've got a 6 horsepower one in my basement that plugs into a 15 amp outlet and gives no trouble. That does NOT compute. Even pushing limits, that does not compute. A 6 horse motor, with no belt, no load, not even a pulley on it to slow it down, that won't start on a residential outlet. The 20 amp breaker will trip the instant the switch closes. What they've "actually" done is let the advertising department cherry pick the technical details to make up good sounding things. So it's rated the "peak" horsepower. That is, they took the inrush current, which is essentially a dead short circuit, while the motor is "stalled" and before it gets enough rotation to start working properly... And converted that "short circuit current" into horsepower, and called it that. The actual motor weighs less than four pounds and could not, on it's best day, run at one horsepower, let alone six. But it's fine for a vacuum.

Compressors are bad, but not that bad, but their horsepower rating is not a "fair" one unless you bought a loose motor to put on it, that came with it's own rating. DO NOT use that as a reference. If anything, use the Full Load Amps (FLA) from the data tag, and reverse engineer a proper horsepower rating for it if you want "some" kind of comparison. But they're overrated. Shot in the dark, from what I've seen, I'd guess your compressor's amps put it closer to one horse. Maybe three quarters, but probably one. (And that's all you needed.... Don't let that darken your day of you do go look at the nameplate, the compressor is fine, it's plenty to run a small compressor, it just leaves you with a skewed impression of the rest of the world. Even if they're overrated, small compressors almost ALWAYS come with enough motor to burn up the pump. It's not the weak link.

I do like your approach however. When the math and ratings get overwhelming, comparing to "known good", while NOT a stamp of approval (because issues like this come up all the time), it is a very good "reality check" to let you know when you're calculations or assumptions have gonee off the rails. When you explore new things, sometimes stuff does go off the rails. I can vouch for that.
 
Want to verify specs I'm looking for:

HP: 1/4- 3/4
Single phase capcitor start(?)
115v
Reversible
frame: 56
Spindle: 5/8 ( well mic to verify)

I would not go with the one quarter hp motor. I'd start the process at a half. Although you CAN ABSOLUTELY get stuff done with a lower horsepower motor, but that's gonna put you "less than" what the lathe can do, and you'll end up with pointier tools making smaller cuts. I'd personally start the search at a half horse. I would NOT RULE OUT a screamin' good deal on a third horse motor, but I wouldn't spend any effort looking for it, if that makes sense.

I wouldn't worry about the type of motor terribly, I'd be more concerned with it's profile. Make sure any protruding parts are not gonna get in the way of tilting the back drive to slacken or tighten the belt.

You should probably add 1725 RPM to the list. Or close to that. there's variations. The major theoretical groups are just under 3600 RPM, just under 1800 RPM, just under 1200 RPM (and so forth, and so on. 60hz times the phase of the moon, divided by the number of windings in the motor, give or take). If it's closest to the "just under 1800" group, and not nearer to any other group... That's the one regardless of petty differences in the rating.
 
Jake is right, you want a 1725 rpm motor not a 3450 one. I forgot to mention that. 3450 is too fast for a lathe.
Another idea would be to salvage the DC motor and controller from a discarded exercise treadmill, if one was to fall into your lap
 
That one would work with the drum switch you have but is a little awkward to wire for reverse- would involve around 5 wires - pick a couple more and we can compare
You might find something a little cheaper on Amazon or Grainger
Ebay also frequently has new old stock motors (NOS) for decent prices- closeouts and so forth
 
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This and similar are found on Amazon. Based off the info posted above, I should stay away from "air compressor" motors? I assume they have weord ratings cause of their duty cycle (maybe wrong term?). They do a lot of work in a short amount of time so they don't really have a chance to build up heat?


Or

 
This lil fella seems to check all the boxes?


There's ten thousand choices out there. Eight thousand of 'em would work out just fine.

I've got nothing against that one. It's a personal thing, needs, wants, expectations and all, but I like the quality/price point. That one has a very versatile voltage rating. Very (VERY) futureroof that way. That's a plus. I can't see anything wrong with it, provided you've verified that your pulley is gonna fit. Markba663csi is (I believe) correct, that this will need more wires to the drum switch than some. Personal opinion- After open the motor's electrical box, open the drum switch, pick a conduit and a routing... (The "conduit" on my lathe is literally 50 plus year old tape and it still works...... You should do better than that, but It's not hard to do better than that.....) you put two wires in a conduit and hook up both ends, additional wires are trivial, and I would not call that a fault, nor would I be afraid of it. I'm not the guy that can work that out in my head, I'd have to get out my crayons and coloring book to make up a plan, but it's a short investment that only needs to be done once.
 
So to the ill informed like myself, what seperates these motors? I get that the Amazon brand is likely mass produced Chinese product that will have more issues per units sold?

But Lesson, vs marathon vs dayton?

What makes wiring the one in reverse more difficult?
 
It sounds like the breaker is tripping due to an overload caused by incorrect wiring or a faulty switch. Verify that the switch is rated for the motor's current draw and that all connections are secure and correctly wired according to the motor's diagram. Check for any signs of short circuits or loose connections which could be causing excessive current draw.
 
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