Furnas Switch Wiring on SB9

[markba633csi]

There's no advantage to running it on 220 unless you won't have 110 available- is that the case?
If so, then I would just test the motor without the switch first with a 220 volt source to make sure
the motor won't trip the breaker or burn up itself or the drum switch

The switch you have cannot interrupt both power line wires when off. Is that going to be an issue for you?
Some folks consider that unsafe with 220 volts. Not as big a deal for 110 since the neutral is effectively cold.
(if the house is wired correctly)

 

[Danx931]

The only reason I wanted to go to 220 is to reduce the Amp draw by 50%.
I can keep it at 110v, and if I start tripping the circuit breaker, I can make the change.
I will make sure to test the motor before the switch.

I hope to have my lathe running in Fwd & Rev in the next few days...

Thanks for your followups, patience, and support...

Dan

 

[markba633csi]

Most outlets are rated for 15 amp so I can't see you'd have a problem- let me know
If the motor dataplate is correct this should work:

 

[Danx931]

Thanks for the 220 schematic! I have a 20-amp breaker, so I will leave it at 110 vac.

With the 110v setup, I see 6 leads from the motor to the drum switch.
I found the attached 14/6 cord on Amazon. Does this cord look like it will handle the job?

Thanks Dan

 

[markba633csi]

6 including the ground- should be fine

 

[Danx931]

The switch and motor are wired according to the attached schematic. And... it blows the Circuit Breaker!!!
I checked the continuity between each wire, and it's all good.
Studs 2, 3, 4, and 6 have continuity with each other and the Hot/Blk.
I could not find any direct shorts between each wire and the machine.

Do you have any thoughts as to why it trips?

Thanks, Dan

 

[markba633csi]

Let me take another look- maybe I made a mistake- also, there may be motor jumper straps you need to remove
Can you post a picture of the switch with the cover off? Maybe it's a different version of RSB4
The motor does run fine by itself without the switch correct?
You might also show the motor terminal board in closeup so I can have a bird's eye view

There still could be an error on the motor dataplate that doesn't show up until you try to wire it for reversing- it's possible
You do own a multimeter?
The Hot/Blk power wire shouldn't have continuity with anything if the switch is in the center off position

 

[Danx931]

Here are some pictures of the Furnas Switch as wired.

 

[Danx931]

Here are some pictures of the Furnas Switch as wired.

Mark,

There is no Terminal Board on the motor; there are just 9 labeled wires to connect.
The motor ran FWD fine through the switch without any other motor wires connected.

I do have a multi-meter and can do any checks needed.

Dan

 

[markba633csi]

Actually I need a view of the switch looking straight down on it from above.
In post #6 you mentioned a jumper between studs 2 and 4. Was that on the switch? If on the switch it should be removed
Do I see two white wires on switch terminal 3? That doesn't look right- you should re-check the wiring again