Another SB9a rotary wiring question

[Weldingrod1]

Ring terminals, screws, and a proper taping job would be ideal. Wire nuts are decent.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

 

[markba633csi]

OK, referring to the sketch in post #6, for 115 volts AC:
Bring out the T5 and T8 motor wires and connect to "red" and "blk"
Connect the motor Line 1 and Line 2 pairs to the "1/org" and "4/wht" shown on the sketch
Swap the T5 and T8 if required for rotation vs. switch handle
Be sure to provide a ground for the switch case and motor frame both
4 conductors + ground between switch and motor

 

[mzvarner]

In the drawing, are 4 and 6 together together (jumper?) or is that just a representation of how the switch works?

 

[markba633csi]

That's a jumper wire you install

Here is an alternate connection which would help maximize the switch life,
in particular the contacts 5 and 6 which handle the majority of the load:
Either one will work however
I drew these left to right for clarity; in practice the wires all come out down at the 5 and 6 end of the switch housing-
I wanted to avoid having to draw wires crossing over each other

 

[mzvarner]

Ok, all wired up and ready to test! Few pics to make sure there is nothing grossly wrong.

the motor-switch ground I had 14g black insulated wire on a spool. I wrapped a piece of tape at either end an labeled it "GND" then zip tied it out of the way.

Heat shrink tube on all twisted wire connections with a small zip tie holding each bundle.

 

[Jake M]

Is that just twisted wire iniside of the shrink tube? If so, that's not gonna work beyond flipping the switch to test. Even outside of code (which you are here), you've got to have something to keep the pressure on the wires, they will relax. Wire nuts, crimp rings and screws (probably overkill for this, but kinda professional), you'd probably even be fine to go with a chitty crimp cap. It's all stranded on stranded, so it won't be a fight, I'd probably just go with wire nuts if it were me. It also means if you crimp a crimp with crimper that's not listed for the crimps you're using, you've got forgiveness there too. But you've got to -something- to maintain a pressure connection. A couple of examples I've used in the past-

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

These are just examples for visual reference. I have NOT weeded out wire gauge and count for the correct size, and if you can, they might even be best bought in "reasonable" quantity at a box store. After that, if you wanted (or needed for bare crimps), heat shrink should be used over the assembly.

Outside of that, it looks pretty OK.

 

[markba633csi]

Try it out- be sure the wires clear the switch cover; they don't give a lot of room in there
The switch contacts look like they could use a bit of smoothing with a file

 

[mzvarner]

She works like a dream. I'll add some proper pinch contacts to the next amazon order, and at that point I'll smooth the contacts.

I appreciate all the help with this project! Never as easy as ya think it will be.

Now onto tightening up some of this backlash!

 

[Jake M]

She works like a dream. I'll add some proper pinch contacts to the next amazon order, and at that point I'll smooth the contacts.

If that were me (I know how my brain works....), I'd leave something there open, unfinished, and ugly until that stuff arrives. The best way to make something permanent is to call it good enough for now. Things like the twisted wires (that WILL work fine for a short term), leaving stuff like that and not going back to it is how you go from learning to hook up a motor, to learning to tear one apart, identify the wires the hard way, attach new "extensions" deep inside the motor where there's no room at all...

Now onto tightening up some of this backlash!

Absolutely take out any backlash where it's practicable, but don't loose too much sleep over some backlash in a lathe. It's nice if it's not terrible, but here will ALWAYS be some. With a lathe, you've got to work REALLY hard to find a time where backlash is gonna get in your way. You always "drive" towards where the cut is going to happen, and the tool pressure always pushes back oposite of the way the tool came in, so the backlash kind of nulls it's self automatically. It's nice when the backlash is lower, but it's not going to change the function of the lathe tangibly. Just how far you've got to back up to "reset" if you accidentally dial in an extra thousandth or two...

 

[mzvarner]

If that were me (I know how my brain works....), I'd leave something there open, unfinished, and ugly until that stuff arrives. The best way to make something permanent is to call it good enough for now. Things like the twisted wires (that WILL work fine for a short term), leaving stuff like that and not going back to it is how you go from learning to hook up a motor, to learning to tear one apart, identify the wires the hard way, attach new "extensions" deep inside the motor where there's no room at all...




Absolutely take out any backlash where it's practicable, but don't loose too much sleep over some backlash in a lathe. It's nice if it's not terrible, but here will ALWAYS be some. With a lathe, you've got to work REALLY hard to find a time where backlash is gonna get in your way. You always "drive" towards where the cut is going to happen, and the tool pressure always pushes back oposite of the way the tool came in, so the backlash kind of nulls it's self automatically. It's nice when the backlash is lower, but it's not going to change the function of the lathe tangibly. Just how far you've got to back up to "reset" if you accidentally dial in an extra thousandth or two...

Valid points about leaving things open.

As for the backlash, I understand that some is necessary otherwise threaded parts would seize. And it makes since to take it up before cutting. The mini lathe had terrible slop in it

The compound slide pulsate under cutting now that I got to actually turn chips with this thing. I adjusted the gib screws and it was not enough. I'll try some thin shim stock before a new nut.