Pm1236 1-3 speed selection froze

[markba633csi]

Just tryin' to "hep" is all
We strive toward perfection, even though we never reach it

 

[woodchucker]

Yes, religiously. Again this is an issue I complained about when I got the lathe because I was worried about the lash being improper and wearing gear teeth and the sides of the gears rubbing while running. I tried to do as much preventative care as possible.

Wouldn’t the brass wear down quickly?

bronze. you can use oilite if you can source it in your size, or bronze for bearing surface material.
I didn't say brass.

 

[hotrats]

My PM1236 operates as I expect but the gear box is chunky which I expected over all I like the machine but I have learned that when changing the gearing I have to shift and rock the spindle back and forth a bit to get it engaged properly.

I do the same also on my 940 some. Not all the time though.

 

[FTlatheworks]

We want every customer to be happy, but at the same time, you need to be able to work with us and be patient. We only see what you show us, and we have to fill in the blanks. That's just a general statement directed at everyone in general. Precision Matthews is all about customer service. It's what we're known for, and personally, that's why I work here.

For your threading issue, that ticket ended with the tech asking you a question, and you never responded. He didn't tell you were were wrong, he just couldn't figure out the issue yet. Maybe you talked on the phone later and I wouldn't see that.

That's a great catch on the lock nut, it's right there in the manual too, but neither he or I for that matter had seen a case where that was loose. We would have got there though.

If you're willing to help us out with pictures and videos, so we can work out exactly what is going on, I'll cover the parts for you. We certainly don't want you to have to buy another machine!

We want every customer to be happy, but at the same time, you need to be able to work with us and be patient. We only see what you show us, and we have to fill in the blanks. That's just a general statement directed at everyone in general. Precision Matthews is all about customer service. It's what we're known for, and personally, that's why I work here.

For your threading issue, that ticket ended with the tech asking you a question, and you never responded. He didn't tell you were were wrong, he just couldn't figure out the issue yet. Maybe you talked on the phone later and I wouldn't see that.

That's a great catch on the lock nut, it's right there in the manual too, but neither he or I for that matter had seen a case where that was loose. We would have got there though.

If you're willing to help us out with pictures and videos, so we can work out exactly what is going on, I'll cover the parts for you. We certainly don't want you to have to buy another machine!

Yes, I thought I had done that enough. It was a 6 month issue. I know you guys have no way of knowing my skill level, but I had been turning axle spindles out of 5/8 4140 on a south bend when my pm wouldn’t do it. To me, the picture and my word that I had done everything that had already been mentioned was enough to say, ok let’s look at the mechanical side of things. i didn’t help anything by being rude though.

 

[FTlatheworks]

bronze. you can use oilite if you can source it in your size, or bronze for bearing surface material.
I didn't say brass.

Bronze too? Or is it that much stronger? I know there is bronze bearing material, but wouldn’t it wear faster than steel on steel?

 

[woodchucker]

Bronze too? Or is it that much stronger? I know there is bronze bearing material, but wouldn’t it wear faster than steel on steel?

no, first the sintered bronze is oilite bearing, which in a dry env is a self lubricating bronze that in the pores holds oil.
It is a perfect material, even in an oil bath.
bronze bearing material is hard, it is also a better material than steel on steel. Cast iron is a good bearing material due to its graphite content, but cast iron can have hard spots if not properly cooled. Bronze bearing material can be a much better choice. Bronze is a long wearing material. Some bronze will wear away steel first, so you want a bearing material.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[FTlatheworks]

no, first the sintered bronze is oilite bearing, which in a dry env is a self lubricating bronze that in the pores holds oil.
It is a perfect material, even in an oil bath.
bronze bearing material is hard, it is also a better material than steel on steel. Cast iron is a good bearing material due to its graphite content, but cast iron can have hard spots if not properly cooled. Bronze bearing material can be a much better choice. Bronze is a long wearing material. Some bronze will wear away steel first, so you want a bearing material.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I have seen people shooting air through oilite. And all the oil bubbling out. I guess I could bore it out, then cut a keyway with a manual broach.

 

[woodchucker]

the gear requires a keyway? so it's not a spinning gear, its locked in its rotation on the shaft? How did it wear out?
If it's not a rotating gear, you don't need an oilite bearing. You can use any solid material.

 

[FTlatheworks]

the gear requires a keyway? so it's not a spinning gear, its locked in its rotation on the shaft? How did it wear out?
If it's not a rotating gear, you don't need an oilite bearing. You can use any solid material.

It’s a gear head lathe. Look at the picture at the beginning of the thread.

lol have you just been guessing at what I need to do to fix it? It’s a pm1236 gear head lathe. The speed selection is seized up. The key and the gear both have play in them. There are two different gears on the same shaft with the same key. The one on the left side works fine, the one on the right seizes up. If I manage to force the right side gear to mesh and I turn the chuck by hand the gear lash changes and it becomes hard to turn the lathe by hand in certain spots (gears are binding). So the gear shift fork can’t change the gear position because there is enough slop between the shaft/keyway and the keyed gear bore for the gear to turn sideways. The shift fork pushes closer to the OD of the gear, rather than pushing closer to the ID where it would create less tilt in the gear which would result in less wear and friction.

 

[MikeWi]

That's more info than I had from you on the ticket. I'll add that in.