New 728VT Questions

Mr Mike said:
what stone are you using that will be able to get underneath the dovetail area, to clean up the full width of that way..?
Is there a stone that has the proper angle built in that can deburr both faces at the same time..?

Also I thought I read that those indentations on the ways helped hold way oil, I could be wrong.... I certainly wouldn't stone them unless they were proud of the surface... wouldn't the ack of trying to stone those marks out induce uneven wear to the ways..?

last but not least, I cant tell if 55fairlane is just joking, if not you can borrow my positive energy shield, it will protect you :)
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Mr Mike, you asked me not to comment on your posts before but since you quoted me, if you look the marks do not appear to be under the dovetail or on the dovetail itself. I agree, if not proud of surface, hence the statement "if they are proud of the way surface", do not stone them. please do a little reading on machinist stones, the stoning with a perfectly flat stone will only take off the proud parts and leave the way intact. in fact that is the prefered method of dealing with knicks on machined surfaces.

yes the indentions (if they are only indentions and not proud) would help with oil retention although that pattern is not optimal for that.

I think that 55fairlane is joking (I am) while feeling sick so it is the best he can do right now.
 
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Mr Mike said:
what stone are you using that will be able to get underneath the dovetail area, to clean up the full width of that way..?
Is there a stone that has the proper angle built in that can deburr both faces at the same time..?
Click to expand...

Knife Edge 29.5 deg) precision ground flat stones are used for dovetails (you stone each surface separately):

IMG_7994.jpeg

Like these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/3035826823...ar=602813139765&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
dabear3428 said:
Mr Mike, you asked me not to comment on your posts before but since you quoted me, if you look the marks do not appear to be under the dovetail or on the dovetail itself. I agree, if not proud of surface, hence the statement "if they are proud of the way surface" do not stone them. please do a little reading on machinist stones, the stoning with a perfectly flat stone will only take off the proud parts and leave the way intact. in fact that is the prefered method of dealing with knicks on machined surfaces.

yes the indentions (if they are only indentions and not proud) would help with oil retention although that pattern is not optimal for that.

I think that 55fairlane is joking (I am) while feeling sick so it is the best he can do right now.
Click to expand...
I don't know about the commenting thing, but I absolutely agree with you on stoning part...
 
dabear3428 said:
Mr Mike, you asked me not to comment on your posts before but since you quoted me, if you look the marks do not appear to be under the dovetail or on the dovetail itself. I agree, if not proud of surface, hence the statement "if they are proud of the way surface" do not stone them. please do a little reading on machinist stones, the stoning with a perfectly flat stone will only take off the proud parts and leave the way intact. in fact that is the prefered method of dealing with knicks on machined surfaces.

yes the indentions (if they are only indentions and not proud) would help with oil retention although that pattern is not optimal for that.

I think that 55fairlane is joking (I am) while feeling sick so it is the best he can do right now.
Click to expand...
I don't feel good, and I can come across gruff....I also have enough of a couple people (not on here) telling me I know nothing about machine work. I started my apprenticeship in 1986, and have been a tool maker every since.
My only thoughts on stoning the ways.....if those marks aren't proud, don't, leave them. You have no way of establishing a master reference as to keep all your dimensions & your true/flat/square plane in. If you remove material from one side it must be done to the other side as well to keep that surface true/flat/square to the surface on the other side.
Doing a blue fit would be a better option to see if something is out of true/flat/square.
Everyone seemed to miss my post about having a solid surface to bolt the machine to , so you shim the entire machine true. This will cause the "binding " the OP talked about.
We nor he has established why the screw was in a bind. He may not need to stone anything.
First day back to work in a week and wow I feel like, I was hit by a truck.
 
Mr Mike said:
what stone are you using that will be able to get underneath the dovetail area, to clean up the full width of that way..?
Is there a stone that has the proper angle built in that can deburr both faces at the same time..?

Also I thought I read that those indentations on the ways helped hold way oil, I could be wrong.... I certainly wouldn't stone them unless they were proud of the surface... wouldn't the ack of trying to stone those marks out induce uneven wear to the ways..?

last but not least, I cant tell if 55fairlane is just joking, if not you can borrow my positive energy shield, it will protect you :)
Click to expand...
I'll take any positive energy you can spare....
 
55fairlane said:
I don't feel good, and I can come across gruff....I also have enough of a couple people (not on here) telling me I know nothing about machine work. I started my apprenticeship in 1986, and have been a tool maker every since.
My only thoughts on stoning the ways.....if those marks aren't proud, don't, leave them. You have no way of establishing a master reference as to keep all your dimensions & your true/flat/square plane in. If you remove material from one side it must be done to the other side as well to keep that surface true/flat/square to the surface on the other side.
Doing a blue fit would be a better option to see if something is out of true/flat/square.
Everyone seemed to miss my post about having a solid surface to bolt the machine to , so you shim the entire machine true. This will cause the "binding " the OP talked about.
We nor he has established why the screw was in a bind. He may not need to stone anything.
First day back to work in a week and wow I feel like, I was hit by a truck.
Click to expand...
agreed, my comment was to only stone a surface to get rid of any proud parts of the marks (if any) not to resurface the ways only anything that is standing proud of the surface. I did not take anything you said as overly gruff and you explained it anyway so no worries.
 
Mr Mike said:
Hello Sir, is $115.00 a fair / normal price for that stone..? I haven't find any others to compare with...
Thanks Mike.
Click to expand...
Please, it's just Chazz (or Charlie)!

Based on what I have seen elsewhere, it is a reasonable price. The only other Precision Gound Flat stone with a bevel I am aware of (but I'm no expert) is an extra from Kinetic Precision (PFG Stones®), who can add a 40° bevel for $59 to a stone; they sell 4" PFG Stones® for $200 a pair (not apples-to-apples since for $200 you get a pair of double-grit stones and for $155 you are just getting a fine grit stone).

I don't have a beveled stone, just a pair of 1" x 2" x 3-3/4" stones I got 4 years ago from a guy who was making & selling them on eBay for $75 (he's no longer there, otherwise I'd include a link):

20240829 1x2x4-ish PGF Stones.jpg


However, since the current seller on eBay has a lot of option, maybe you can work out a deal with them on a custom set.

EDIT: Just looked at the details:

3/8 x 1-3/4" x 4-1/2" knife edge stones are ground flat on 2 faces and on the 29-1/2 degree relieved sharp edge (see photos) to permit reaching to the root of dovetails as narrow as 30 o. Thick edge and ends unfinished. Can be used to dress flat machined surfaces like larger precision ground flat stones but are more versatile - the slim tapered shape also fits into tight corners and under edges. Light weight for a more sensitive feel. Sold as a set of 2 stones, 1 medium and 1 fine grit.​

Now I have to buy a set while they're still available!!
 
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