New 728VT Questions

55fairlane said:
A) see post #5 https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/pm-728vt-stand.110654/
B) use a master level & shim it flat.
C) fill the base of the cabinet with several hundred pounds of lead/sand/rock/steal anything to give it weight.

Can you fell the machine marks with your thumbnail? All the quill knows seen to have a catch in them ....
Click to expand...
Updates

A) I did this first thing before mounting the mill to the stock stand 3/4 Al Plate
B) It has been leveled with a normal construction level, how necessary is picking up a machinist level for this?
C)Filled with couple hundred pounds of Al plate

I cannot feel the ways marks with my fingernail, but will throw a 10ths indicator at it tonight.

Kinetic precision is actually near my area, will pick up a set of stones. Have been meaning to do this anyways.
 
flutie98 said:
Updates

A) I did this first thing before mounting the mill to the stock stand 3/4 Al Plate
B) It has been leveled with a normal construction level, how necessary is picking up a machinist level for this?
C)Filled with couple hundred pounds of Al plate

I cannot feel the ways marks with my fingernail, but will throw a 10ths indicator at it tonight.

Kinetic precision is actually near my area, will pick up a set of stones. Have been meaning to do this anyways.
Click to expand...
A percision level is a must, if you want the machine to cut flat. The hash lines on my level are .0005 per 12 inches. The level is an 18 inch Starrett. A carpenters level might be 1/16 over 4 foot. Your machine can still be in a twist,so yes in my opinion it is very important.
And yes weight in bottom is also your friend.

My opinion the marks on the dove tale, kinda look like burn marks from the grinder wheel. And if you can't feel them with your thumbnail, don't worry about it.
 
flutie98 said:
Updates

Kinetic precision is actually near my area, will pick up a set of stones. Have been meaning to do this anyways.
Click to expand...

Take pictures of their operations if they’ll allow it!

I feel better about my buying the 3rd to last set of the beveled stones from eBay now.
 
Mr Mike said:
Hello...

The E-bay store has only 1 set left... Also do you happen to know if you should use way oil to act as a buffer sliding on the flats, that way you can better feel the stone honing the proud spots..?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

My set should be delivered Tuesday.

I have always used my regular PGF stones dry after wiping the target surface clean & dry and rubbing the stones against each other as a first step. You aren’t removing significant material so don’t need oil to float particles away.

Robin Renzetti’s video is a good primer:
 
Last edited:
ChazzC said:
My set should be delivered Tuesday.

I have always used my regular PGF stones dry after wiping the target surface clean & dry and rubbing the stones against each other as a first step. You aren’t removing significant material so don’t need oil to float particles away.

Robin Renzetti’s video is a good primer:
Click to expand...
Hi..

That was a good education right there Wow, what a difference when he showed the precision VS none precision stone on the metal puck and then deburring the 3 spots on that block to perfection.... Love it.

I have the regular Norton's, but I see the E-bay store I got the Knife Edge Stone from has the precision Stones too...
I like the name PFG and the fact they will resurface your stone if needed.

Thank you for that link... And sharing the knowledge.
 
Last edited:
55fairlane said:
A percision level is a must, if you want the machine to cut flat. The hash lines on my level are .0005 per 12 inches. The level is an 18 inch Starrett. A carpenters level might be 1/16 over 4 foot. Your machine can still be in a twist,so yes in my opinion it is very important.
And yes weight in bottom is also your friend.

My opinion the marks on the dove tale, kinda look like burn marks from the grinder wheel. And if you can't feel them with your thumbnail, don't worry about it.
Click to expand...

Ok, picked up a 12" CANCNC level and spent about 3 hrs chasing my tail to get everything close. Turns out there was a considerable twist and once corrected the y axis is now smooth as butter, absolutely ecstatic thank you!
 
flutie98 said:
Ok, picked up a 12" CANCNC level and spent about 3 hrs chasing my tail to get everything close. Turns out there was a considerable twist and once corrected the y axis is now smooth as butter, absolutely ecstatic thank you!
Click to expand...
I am very happy you got your mill "straighten out" ...... now go make true/flat/square blocks
 
I don't think a mill needs to be leveled to the degree that a lathe does. level yes. Nth degree? why?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top