Pm1236 1-3 speed selection froze

Thanks, yes, been trying that. The issue is the binding on the shaft, not the gears meshing. Sometimes, the gears are not even touching (side to side) and the lever will not move. I believe my issue is the same as what the starter of this thread had. I was just adding my experience to the thread in case this is a common issue with the 1236.



I have never seen liquid teflon but will see if I can find some. Thanks
my PM1236 has a chunky gear box when shifting from gear to gear but nothing like you are describing. Shake the Chuck back and forth and it falls into gear NP.
 
Thanks, yes, been trying that. The issue is the binding on the shaft, not the gears meshing. Sometimes, the gears are not even touching (side to side) and the lever will not move. I believe my issue is the same as what the starter of this thread had. I was just adding my experience to the thread in case this is a common issue with the 1236.



I have never seen liquid teflon but will see if I can find some. Thanks
got mine at lowes or hd. I think Lowes.

PXL_20241203_184020317.jpg

disclaimer... teflon is considered a forever product, there are now warnings about it.
So keep it off of you..
 
my PM1236 has a chunky gear box when shifting from gear to gear but nothing like you are describing. Shake the Chuck back and forth and it falls into gear NP.
Yes, the ABC lever is like that, moves rather easily and meshes fine with a rocking of the chuck. As expected. The 123 lever, as the original poster indicated, is a very different story. Precision Matthews is corresponding with me and it might come down to some new parts. I may try disassembly and lightly sanding the shaft and look for something that might be causing the binding. I wonder if a valve lapping compound applied and moving the gear would work. But then my concern would be getting it all out of there! I will report back.
 
Yes, the ABC lever is like that, moves rather easily and meshes fine with a rocking of the chuck. As expected. The 123 lever, as the original poster indicated, is a very different story. Precision Matthews is corresponding with me and it might come down to some new parts. I may try disassembly and lightly sanding the shaft and look for something that might be causing the binding. I wonder if a valve lapping compound applied and moving the gear would work. But then my concern would be getting it all out of there! I will report back.
Lapping compound would be a huge mistake, don’t do it!
 
Thank you! Good enough for me. Sounded extreme.....that is why I asked.

I will keep digging into it.
 
It would have been helpful if the OP had gotten back on this thread and updated on the results of getting and installing the new parts PM were sending him.
 
It would have been helpful if the OP had gotten back on this thread and updated on the results of getting and installing the new parts PM were sending him.
I have been extremely busy. It did help, but it doesn’t solve the chunkiness. As others have mentioned, this is going to happen with use, taking too deep a cut and stopping the lathe, or the gears not being properly meshed and it jumping out of gear. Unless the gear sets are bored and a nice replaceable bearing material could be inserted in the gear bore, it’s going to happen again. In the name of transparency, I had a crash the first year I owned it. Did this cause it? I’m not sure, but the problem got a whole lot worse rather suddenly with no crash, or abuse.

The gears are not made, or assembled nice enough to have a forever fix. It’s going to be up to us as machinist to either upgrade the gear set and shaft, or be very careful and understand it will take some finesse to get the gears to mesh properly.

The problem is absolutely the gear set bores are too large and possibley not concentric, or both. The easiest fix would be to turn a new shaft and cut a keyway that fits better.

I will be sure to measure the old parts and the new parts and report my findings. I have acquired a mill. I will do better about trying to come up with a fix that we all can achieve without replacing parts. It should be simple for the pros here. I believe I can accomplish it and I’m far from a pro.

Give me some time to measure and document everything. I will disassemble and compare it all.

I will try to get the old parts to work like new in my lathe. I have learned a lot since this thread. Once I achieve a fix I will gladly post it here. I wouldn’t order new parts, unless yours is 100 percent non working. All gear head lathes are like this to some degree.
 
on a previous page, mike with PM said he would provide new gears and shaft at no cost. did that happen?
 
on a previous page, mike with PM said he would provide new gears and shaft at no cost. did that happen?
It’s on the previous pages. I will say they took care of me when I should have paid for the parts. I will also admit I was and had been a jerk and they still helped me out.
 
so, the new parts did not fix the problem either. got it. thanks.
 
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