My Logan 820 Lathe Journey

[Shiseiji]

First, big congrats! FWIW, these lathes operated for decades in production shops working with the speeds provided and HHS. IMHI Don't get too wrapped. When my VFD died and I just started to use the pulleys I didn't notice anything. What I've found to be my best investment is a set of HHS tangental tool holders. Super easy to grind and easy lap on a diamond stick keeps them sharp. I'm personally just not big on carbide. To use it "well" it needs to be sharpened and that means a diamond wheel. The tangental holders can be found in the Home Machinist, the magazine, store or get them straight from Gary in Australia. His IG is well worth a look and you can see the tools in use on YouTube. Much better than the $ I spent on the VFD.

The switch will depend on what wires you find under the motor cover. The manual shows how to wire it up. Because of how the neutral is wired in these switches, it's possible it was set to be single setting to comply with current code. Given the history of who you purchased it from, I'd consider that likely. I think I've read only one person concerned about the switch in the ??8 years I had my Logan on many different forums. If you do go the VFD route, you can't use the switch for reverse without basically building a new switch inside the cover.

I suspect the after market cross slide held a grinder. The tapped holes for moving the motor based on the size of the work. Could also hold a milling attachment much more rigidly than the compound.

 

[wachuko]

First, big congrats! FWIW, these lathes operated for decades in production shops working with the speeds provided and HHS. IMHI Don't get too wrapped. When my VFD died and I just started to use the pulleys I didn't notice anything. What I've found to be my best investment is a set of HHS tangental tool holders. Super easy to grind and easy lap on a diamond stick keeps them sharp. I'm personally just not big on carbide. To use it "well" it needs to be sharpened and that means a diamond wheel. The tangental holders can be found in the Home Machinist, the magazine, store or get them straight from Gary in Australia. His IG is well worth a look and you can see the tools in use on YouTube. Much better than the $ I spent on the VFD.

The switch will depend on what wires you find under the motor cover. The manual shows how to wire it up. Because of how the neutral is wired in these switches, it's possible it was set to be single setting to comply with current code. Given the history of who you purchased it from, I'd consider that likely. I think I've read only one person concerned about the switch in the ??8 years I had my Logan on many different forums. If you do go the VFD route, you can't use the switch for reverse without basically building a new switch inside the cover.

I suspect the after market cross slide held a grinder. The tapped holes for moving the motor based on the size of the work. Could also hold a milling attachment much more rigidly than the compound.

On the motor wiring, I will check... I doubt I would want to use reverse, but would be nice to have it working as it should.



Heading to Ocala after work, so I will not be able to do anything today. I did snap a few photos before heading out. When I said there was a need for lots, and lots of cleaning, I was not joking... I need to get new bolts and washers to secure the motor to the base. Belt that came with it is a Goodyear 84480 (48")... I thought this was supposed to use a 49" belt. It was working with this one, so I will install it for now and order a new one...



Just nasty...






When I place the motor on the belt (no bolts)... The motor bracket is supposed to be hinged at one side with a bolt and nut adjustment that raises or lowers it, to provide increase or decrease tension on the v-belt... It was too dirty for me to even test that before heading out to work, lol.

Next week I will take this section apart, pressure wash it and then strip and paint.

 

[Jim F]

Reverse is necessary to have.
If you are going to do metric threading, need reverse.
At work, they use reverse when threading anything, just leave the half-nuts engaged.

 

[matthewsx]

Lots of schools painted stuff yellow.

 

[wachuko]

Reverse is necessary to have.
If you are going to do metric threading, need reverse.
At work, they use reverse when threading anything, just leave the half-nuts engaged.

Good to know. I thought it was not recommended on chucks that are screwed on without locks.

Lots of schools painted stuff yellow.

Ahh... learned something new.

 

[Jim F]

Good to know. I thought it was not recommended on chucks that are screwed on without locks.



Ahh... learned something new.

When you are threading, reverse is not cutting, just returning to the beginning.

 

[matthewsx]

And going slow....

 

[Shiseiji]

Reverse is necessary to have.
If you are going to do metric threading, need reverse.
At work, they use reverse when threading anything, just leave the half-nuts engaged.

 

[Shiseiji]

Are you sure those lathes have screw on chunks? That's a common technique on lathes with a cam lock that won't unscrew when the thread has to go to a shoulder.

 

[Shiseiji]

Regarding re-mounting the motor. Not something you have to be overly concerned with, but I made do with my 820 on a wide bench for a while the infamous "previous owner" (PO) put the lathe on . Getting to the motor bolts was a royal PIA. I have a small mill and made some tee nuts that fit the underside of motor shelf. Made a huge difference. If you consider replacing the motor, pay close attention to where a start cap may be on the motor, or if there is a wiring bulge, proper term is escaping me at the moment, on the case. They can make mounting some motors impossible. A fluid resistant wire housing from a home improvement center looks good IMHO, and is easy to keep clean.