My Logan 820 Lathe Journey

[wachuko]

Regarding re-mounting the motor. Not something you have to be overly concerned with, but I made do with my 820 on a wide bench for a while the infamous "previous owner" (PO) put the lathe on . Getting to the motor bolts was a royal PIA. I have a small mill and made some tee nuts that fit the underside of motor shelf. Made a huge difference. If you consider replacing the motor, pay close attention to where a start cap may be on the motor, or if there is a wiring bulge, proper term is escaping me at the moment, on the case. They can make mounting some motors impossible. A fluid resistant wire housing from a home improvement center looks good IMHO, and is easy to keep clean.

Motor is fine… General Electric 60Hz, 115Volts, 1/2 HP… si luckily I don’t have to buy a new one. I did run it before putting it on the trailer.. my mistake was not taking photos before I took it out…. But that does not matter now… I will figure out correct setup/install and do so…

I just need to install back after I clean and paint the base/stand.

In Ocala until Saturday night… so not able to do anything until then…

On another topic… against all logic and common sense… looking into a PWT Multifix tool post system… asked Peter for a quote for:

1 - System A Tool Post
10 - AD1675 Holders
1 - AV75 round adapter for squares holder
2 - AH1675 Holder
1 - AT2075L Parting Tool Holder with 26mm blade holder and carbide cutters
4 - Spare bolts for each parts of tools

 

[Jim F]

Are you sure those lathes have screw on chunks? That's a common technique on lathes with a cam lock that won't unscrew when the thread has to go to a shoulder.

The ones at work are cam locks.

My SB9 has a screw on chuck. I have started using the same technique at home.
You are not cutting in reverse, merely returning to start another cut.
Was I not clear ?

 

[Shiseiji]

Well, I can be dense, so it may have been the receiver. I have read of people trying to thread in reverse, the only success being the chuck removal. I spun mine loose once, honestly can't remember what I was doing that I thought I needed reverse for. Fortunately I was exercising a lot if caution and going quite slow so didn't spin it off. Better to learn this way than the school of hard knocks which can be expensive.

 

[Shiseiji]

When you are threading, reverse is not cutting, just returning to the beginning.

Jim, I missed this one. Sorry. That is one advantage to a VFD, the ability to stop really fast and then reverse without disengaging the half nuts. Sans VFD, I got educated by nice people here in the board to run the lathe as slow as possible and disengage the half nuts. Of course then the operator also gets to play with the threading dial. On the endless list is a spindle crank for hand threading to a shoulder. One day . . .

 

[Shiseiji]

Motor is fine… General Electric 60Hz, 115Volts, 1/2 HP… si luckily I don’t have to buy a new one. I did run it before putting it on the trailer.. my mistake was not taking photos before I took it out…. But that does not matter now… I will figure out correct setup/install and do so…

I just need to install back after I clean and paint the base/stand.

In Ocala until Saturday night… so not able to do anything until then…

On another topic… against all logic and common sense… looking into a PWT Multifix tool post system… asked Peter for a quote for:

1 - System A Tool Post
10 - AD1675 Holders
1 - AV75 round adapter for squares holder
2 - AH1675 Holder
1 - AT2075L Parting Tool Holder with 26mm blade holder and carbide cutters
4 - Spare bolts for each parts of tools

Hmmmmm, personally, I think I'd rather have the tangential tool holders and a fancy self centering chuck. I read that as nice as they are, it's still necessary to adjust them on the compound. When you are knocking out a bunch and time is money, makes sense for tooling. I try to go with a balance of |Good|Quick|Cheap| you can have any two. Seriously no other tooling or some good indicators, maybe a surface plate, DRO, $ for a Clausing 8535 mill that is worth the :30 seconds it takes to adjust the Alorus clone? The Clausing's are a great size to complement the 820. Just saying . . .

Might want to both read up on the carbide vs. HHS opinions and what speeds and pressure are being used to make carbide work on a lathe designed for HHS. I've seen a lot of people use them just fine. But I've spent far less on HHS and, better yet, Crobalt ( can't get the whole url to paste, look under products. https://www.eccentricengineering.com.au ). It's a cast product 50% Cobalt and other "stuff". Leaves more for Porsche parts And no "ah crap" because I just knocked the tip off my last insert.

 

[Ben17484]

Nice looking lathe and nice resto project

I’m currently painting and tidying up my new to me 1953 smart and brown SAB. I’ve chosen Reseeda Green for my new colour. I wish I’d have read this thread first as I’d probably have chosen the colour you’re using!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jim F]

Jim, I missed this one. Sorry. That is one advantage to a VFD, the ability to stop really fast and then reverse without disengaging the half nuts. Sans VFD, I got educated by nice people here in the board to run the lathe as slow as possible and disengage the half nuts. Of course then the operator also gets to play with the threading dial. On the endless list is a spindle crank for hand threading to a shoulder. One day . . .

Threading metric with a Imperial machine, that does not work, half nuts need to stay engaged during the entire threading process.

At work, they leave the half nut engaged to prevent missing the mark.

 

[wachuko]

Nice looking lathe and nice resto project

I’m currently painting and tidying up my new to me 1953 smart and brown SAB. I’ve chosen Reseeda Green for my new colour. I wish I’d have read this thread first as I’d probably have chosen the colour you’re using!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should have no regrets. That green looks great. Following your progress as well.

 

[wachuko]

Hmmmmm, personally, I think I'd rather have the tangential tool holders and a fancy self centering chuck. I read that as nice as they are, it's still necessary to adjust them on the compound. When you are knocking out a bunch and time is money, makes sense for tooling. I try to go with a balance of |Good|Quick|Cheap| you can have any two. Seriously no other tooling or some good indicators, maybe a surface plate, DRO, $ for a Clausing 8535 mill that is worth the :30 seconds it takes to adjust the Alorus clone? The Clausing's are a great size to complement the 820. Just saying . . .

Might want to both read up on the carbide vs. HHS opinions and what speeds and pressure are being used to make carbide work on a lathe designed for HHS. I've seen a lot of people use them just fine. But I've spent far less on HHS and, better yet, Crobalt ( can't get the whole url to paste, look under products. https://www.eccentricengineering.com.au ). It's a cast product 50% Cobalt and other "stuff". Leaves more for Porsche parts And no "ah crap" because I just knocked the tip off my last insert.

Oh man, you touched on several points... I do appreciate your feedback, thank you.

Funny that you mentioned the tangential tool holders... I ordered the diamond tool holder yesterday... from Gary at Eccentric Engineering. I was not aware of the Crobalt cutters... I just sent him an email to see if he can drop a few of those in the recent order, to try them out. It is close to 11pm in Australia, I do hope he sees it in time before shipping the other order. This way, I can least save a few $ in shipping costs... I ordered it in 1/2"... maybe I should have order it in 3/8" size... oh, well, if it is too big for this lathe, I can always use it in the bigger lathe and order a smaller one for the 820.

Keep in mind, these tools are for just hobby use... I am not going to be making any money with them... I do have milling machines (mill 1, mill 2) and two other lathes (thing 1, thing 2)... Had I found this lathe before the others... maybe, just maybe, this would had been my only lathe... well, can't lie, that big G0709 is so nice to use... and the HF 9x20 was very inexpensive to acquire... as you can tell, I have attachment issues

I have a surface plate and building my toolbox as I learned from the folks here...

I do want a nice chuck for this lathe... but I have to say... the factory chuck, I like how thin it is. Does not stick out that much. Something that will happen with almost everything that I find... all the ones I have seen so far, require a backplate. Making the stick out so much more than the stock unit...

On the toolpost. I have the Aloris clones on the other two lathes. I just find the design of the Multifix too cool to pass up... I would like to give it a try. I will have to make a T-nut like what Abom79 made... so it is all one flat surface... I think that it would look great on the 820... I know, I know... some of you guys might be going like "Dude! it is not about looks!"...

Anyway... that was a long reply...lol...

 

[wachuko]

Regarding re-mounting the motor. Not something you have to be overly concerned with, but I made do with my 820 on a wide bench for a while the infamous "previous owner" (PO) put the lathe on . Getting to the motor bolts was a royal PIA. I have a small mill and made some tee nuts that fit the underside of motor shelf. Made a huge difference. If you consider replacing the motor, pay close attention to where a start cap may be on the motor, or if there is a wiring bulge, proper term is escaping me at the moment, on the case. They can make mounting some motors impossible. A fluid resistant wire housing from a home improvement center looks good IMHO, and is easy to keep clean.

I missed that comment... I will try to do that as well. Thank you.