[Newbie] MT3 vs R8

[DavidR8]

I did some research and ended up ordering an MT3 ER32 collet chuck and collet set from Little Machine Shop today.



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[Aaron_W]

I did some research and ended up ordering an MT3 ER32 collet chuck and collet set from Little Machine Shop today.



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They have taken a fair bit of my money, and I've been happy with all of my purchases from them.

 

[DavidR8]

They have taken a fair bit of my money, and I've been happy with all of my purchases from them.

Part of the appeal was their reputation and the 3/8-16 drawbar threads on the chuck match my drawbar.

 

[mickri]

How many collet nuts did you order? I have 4 and am thinking about buying 2 more. They are not expensive. It is really handy to not have to remove the collet from the nut as you change tooling. On my mill/drill I use mostly 1/2 and 3/8 end mills. The collets for those sizes live in their own collet nut. That leaves me with two spares that I switch to whatever size collet I need. Did you also buy adapters to fit the tailstock and headstock on your lathe? What about collet blocks? Both a square and a hex. Very handy for machining squares and hexes on the end of round stock. Last but not least is to buy or preferably make a collet chuck for the lathe. Making a collet chuck for my lathe was a really good learning experience.

 

[Downunder Bob]

As my lathe has an MT3 tailstock, that is what I started with. I added ER collets full metric set in ER 32, plus 3/8 and 1/2 inch and will add others as needed. Make sure any MT3 shank you get has a tapped hole in the back for a draw bar.

Check what is most readily available in your area, but I guess MT12 , and standardise all your accessories on that. All tooling held in the mill on an MT3 shank must be locked in with a draw bar, otherwise you will be very unhappy.

Depends on the spindle taper in your lathe most likely MT3 or bigger, then you'll need an adaptor sleeve, make sure it is a through hole type, for draw bar. Then you can use all your Collets and other tools on the lathe as well for extra versatility.

I think R8 is fine for commercial machine shops, and many hobbiests also use it, there is nothing wrong with that, I just think it's a lot of extra expense that is not needed at the hobby level. Unless you'e got a number of mills and do a lot of heavy mill work, then it might make sense.

 

[DavidR8]

@mickri @Downunder Bob
Thanks gents.

My lathe does in fact have a MT3 spindle taper so I will be able to use the collet chuck by making a simple drawbar for the lathe.

My mill came with a 3/8”-16 drawbar so I’m set that way.


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[francist]

And if you do decide down the road that you want the through-bore capabilities of a screw on collet chuck for the lathe, you’re already partway there with a backplate. You’re saving money hand over fist already!

Seriously, you’ve got some good stuff coming your way that is bound to give solid service for a long time.

-frank

 

[DavidR8]

And if you do decide down the road that you want the through-bore capabilities of a screw on collet chuck for the lathe, you’re already partway there with a backplate. You’re saving money hand over fist already!

Seriously, you’ve got some good stuff coming your way that is bound to give solid service for a long time.

-frank

You read my mind @francist!
Or I could test my burgeoning skills and turn a collet chuck


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[francist]

Even better!

 

[middle.road]

Part of the appeal was their reputation and the 3/8-16 drawbar threads on the chuck match my drawbar.

Finally an answer to the question asked days ago............................