We used photo templates to make Sikorsky parts, (they would not give us the prints). You can then use photos and your Hossfeld to establish a part to photo size relationship and then just scale the photo for dimensions which should be plenty close enough.
Making dies is a challenging project. The sides should be really tight.
You can 3D print dies. Metal sides and pivot but plastic for the rest. There's a few videos out there about print settings. I think 7 perimeters and 70% fill for PLA. It sounds impossible but have a watch.
Making dies is a challenging project. The sides should be really tight.
You can 3D print dies. Metal sides and pivot but plastic for the rest. There's a few videos out there about print settings. I think 7 perimeters and 70% fill for PLA. It sounds impossible but have a watch.
That’s great and if I had ice cream, I could have cake and ice cream, if I had cake!!
(In other words, if I had print settings, I could use them on my 3D printer, if I had a 3D printer.
That’s great and if I had ice cream, I could have cake and ice cream, if I had cake!!
(In other words, if I had print settings, I could use them on my 3D printer, if I had a 3D printer.
I'm just saying... the cake is amazing. Also, I can't see into your freezer.
Getting back to your question, the dimensions of the die are a bit of an art. There's lots of stuff going on when you bend tubing and I think some trial and error will be required. The advice I've been given is to make the sides tight, slightly undersize, so that you really need to force the tubing in. Also, I think the die should be slightly deeper than center line. In any case, I don't think the ideal section is a half-round of nominal tubing diameter. It's hard to translate my plastic-die design experience to steel so take it with a grain of salt.
I have the standard setup and the pipe dies. Those are some big a$$ chunks of metal. They're obviously cast and machined as little as possible. Making them from billet is probably not economical unless you have scrap material and scrap time.
Post some pictures of your progress, if you end up making your own.
I’ve been slogging through trying to bend new supports for the frame on my converted tent shed. The tubing is non standard 1 3/8” OD 17ga galvanized used in cyclone fences. Through looking at the original supports I figure out they were using 8” diameter dies. It seems this is a standard diameter for like the JD-2.
Cutting the dies is a trick as it’s a bit bigger than my lathe can handle I think. Or actually right at its max. My other challenge was I have a HF compact bender and decided to start there with. To experiment I used a 2x10 lumber I had. All of the router bits for 1/4” shank only go up to 1” and from there the larger router bits have 1/2” shank which I don’t have any die grinders or router that can take a 1/2” shank. So I used the 1”x1/4” shank and my rig that I use for cutting various radius using multiple passes with the bit. Predictably the wood shattered when I put the umph to it. But I learned all I needed how to cut it and then made the new die out of two stacked pieces of 1” thick UHMW I had.
The first try with the compact bender collapsed the tube on the bend. I also have a HF ring roller and gave that a try, it also collapsed the tube. While researching I found a JD-2 clone for $200 on Amazon and since I’d already passed the sanity event horizon I went for it. Much more suited for this kind of stuff and I’d venture to say better than the Hossfeld as it uses compound leverage. I patched together the tube holder and just about the time I was getting ready to put the umph to it the screws I was using as a test pulled out. I had other work so took it down to make some $$. In the meantime I ordered some 2” UHMW that I will use to make the new part and try again.
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