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Diesel block heaters ?
- Thread starter mmcmdl
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- Apr 14, 2014
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The block heater will only work to a point. If it gets cold enough for the fuel to gel it will eventually clog up the fuel filter. Most diesel fuel filters are 5 micron or lower. The gelled paraffin the fuel will plug them up. Then you’ll need to warm the filter with a heat gun or torch to get the fuel liquid again.
Once started the engine should continue to run as long as the fuel filter stays warm. The warm fuel returning to the tank will keep the fuel in the tank warm enough to stay liquid.
Once you get to -20 or lower you’ll need a tank heater or anti gel additive. Another solution is to slide an up to temp cheap charcoal grill under the oil pan. It usually takes 20 to 30 minutes to warm the oil, fuel, and cooling system enough to get it started.
In years past I spent many hours during the winter months warming and starting diesel trucks and construction equipment.
Once started the engine should continue to run as long as the fuel filter stays warm. The warm fuel returning to the tank will keep the fuel in the tank warm enough to stay liquid.
Once you get to -20 or lower you’ll need a tank heater or anti gel additive. Another solution is to slide an up to temp cheap charcoal grill under the oil pan. It usually takes 20 to 30 minutes to warm the oil, fuel, and cooling system enough to get it started.
In years past I spent many hours during the winter months warming and starting diesel trucks and construction equipment.
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My Honda didn't start , so that'll be tomorrows job . I have a propane jet heater here that Ill fire up in front of it . 2 vehicles didn't start while both 4 Runners had no issues . 
It's been colder than 10 degrees here before and never had issues . I see batteries in the future .
Edit . I may drive either vehicle once or twice a week and not out of the neighborhood usually . The truck may sit for 2-3 weeks without being driven . Someone said to put a battery kill switch on it to fix the issue . I'll look into that this summer .
It's been colder than 10 degrees here before and never had issues . I see batteries in the future .Edit . I may drive either vehicle once or twice a week and not out of the neighborhood usually . The truck may sit for 2-3 weeks without being driven . Someone said to put a battery kill switch on it to fix the issue . I'll look into that this summer .
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Don’t get the heater too close. I’ve seen them melt plastic grills when left too close for too long.My Honda didn't start , so that'll be tomorrows job . I have a propane jet heater here that Ill fire up in front of it . 2 vehicles didn't start while both 4 Runners had no issues .
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My 2006 Duramax (240K mi) is my winter snow/ice rig. I keep studs on the truck for the 20% of winter days when there is snow or ice. The truck block heater stays plugged into the extension cord all winter. BUT I only plug the extension cord into the wall when bad weather is imminent. It is MUCH easier to open the interior garage door and plug the extension cord into the wall without actually setting foot in the garage than it is to go out to the driveway and fight the rain/ice/snow to plug the block heater into the extension cord. I do put anti-gel in the in the tank at the beginning of the winter because we do get sub -20f around here.
I also just put the truck batteries on the smart charger for a few days to make sure they are ready to go this winter. (same extension chord).
My car is my main vehicle and is AWD which is actually better for most ice driving than 4wd but it gets expensive wearing out studs for the 80% of the dry days here in central Oregon so it just wears the touring tires year-round. I have some great Nokian studs for the car but they seem like a waste on tire wear (not to mention road wear) for all the dry days we have. If I have to go on a long trip I will put the studs on the car.
P.S. I wanted to buy a 7.3 in 2013 but all the used ones were priced so high at the time that I bought the used 2006 Duramax for just a few K more than a 7.3 Powerstroke. ($23K)
I also just put the truck batteries on the smart charger for a few days to make sure they are ready to go this winter. (same extension chord).
My car is my main vehicle and is AWD which is actually better for most ice driving than 4wd but it gets expensive wearing out studs for the 80% of the dry days here in central Oregon so it just wears the touring tires year-round. I have some great Nokian studs for the car but they seem like a waste on tire wear (not to mention road wear) for all the dry days we have. If I have to go on a long trip I will put the studs on the car.
P.S. I wanted to buy a 7.3 in 2013 but all the used ones were priced so high at the time that I bought the used 2006 Duramax for just a few K more than a 7.3 Powerstroke. ($23K)
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I have several you can have.My Honda didn't start , so that'll be tomorrows job . I have a propane jet heater here that Ill fire up in front of it . 2 vehicles didn't start while both 4 Runners had no issues .
Edit . I may drive either vehicle once or twice a week and not out of the neighborhood usually . The truck may sit for 2-3 weeks without being driven . Someone said to put a battery kill switch on it to fix the issue . I'll look into that this summer .
A 500 watt heat bulb under the oil pan will go a long way toward heating the whole engine system. Used it on my Ranger for -10 degrees. My old Massey Ferguson diesel has an electric heater that spliced into the radiator hose. Had it maybe 40 years. Still working.
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Not sure about the 6.0 but the 7 3 of the cranking speed is to low they won't start.
I think of block heaters a little bit differently than apparently most respondents here. The sooner you can get your vehicle up to operated efficiency the better. The less washed down of cylinders due to raw fuel. Talking gas or diesel. My goal is to get the engine temperature up as quickly as possible. Block heaters help with that. To me it's not just about how soon I can turn my heater on or else starting. While those are important the overall reduction of wear on the motor is what my focus is.
My preference are the circulating type block heaters. Instead of heating one spot they circulate the heat through the block and into the radiator. I have several of these type that have been in use for 40 years plus.
You can use a heated dipstick, or a magnetic one to put on the pan. There's also blanket heaters for the batteries along with heaters for the fuel system.
A anti gell additive is cheap, quick and easy insurance.
Did you notice I got all 3 in there
I think of block heaters a little bit differently than apparently most respondents here. The sooner you can get your vehicle up to operated efficiency the better. The less washed down of cylinders due to raw fuel. Talking gas or diesel. My goal is to get the engine temperature up as quickly as possible. Block heaters help with that. To me it's not just about how soon I can turn my heater on or else starting. While those are important the overall reduction of wear on the motor is what my focus is.
My preference are the circulating type block heaters. Instead of heating one spot they circulate the heat through the block and into the radiator. I have several of these type that have been in use for 40 years plus.
You can use a heated dipstick, or a magnetic one to put on the pan. There's also blanket heaters for the batteries along with heaters for the fuel system.
A anti gell additive is cheap, quick and easy insurance.
Did you notice I got all 3 in there
I'm up in the U.P. of MI. I had 3 or 4 VW diesels over the years, and there were winter months when the engines never got cold. Plugged in at home in the garage or alongside the yard diesels at the factory. They started the same summer or winter. I used 15-40 Rotella, and it gets thick in the cold. There are stations in town that cater to the Canadian truck traffic that avoids the North shore of Lake Superior, and they have #1 diesel in season. That also makes a big difference below zero.
