728VT really unhappy!

@55fairlane, if you were to do it again, would you buy the base for you 728 or build one out of heavier material? I am about to push the checkout button on a new 728 but haven't yet decided on the base or not.
 
tominboise said:
@55fairlane, if you were to do it again, would you buy the base for you 728 or build one out of heavier material? I am about to push the checkout button on a new 728 but haven't yet decided on the base or not.
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I have a 940, not a 728; but, if the base is the cast base I would do that, its about 300 pounds....
 
tominboise said:
Unfortunately it is the sheet metal base offered with the 728
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Factory sheetmetal stands aren't much more than simple flimsy pedestals. The deciding factors should be your ability to build something more solid and efficient.

If you can weld, a much more solid base incorporating a tool box is not too hard to build on the cheap. A plywood cabinet type structure can be very strong and stable if built with quality adhesives and careful joinery.

Rather than spend $300 for the crappy PM base offering, I'd spend a little more money to build something that is more user friendly starting with a HF tool box.

www.harborfreight.com

27 in. x 22 in. Roll Cab, Series 3, Red

Amazing deals on this Red 27In Roller Cabinet at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

You would be miles ahead of a factory stand and have some convenient storage where you need it. It all comes down to your existing available space for tooling storage, and the size of your shop.
 
Firstram said:
Factory sheetmetal stands aren't much more than simple flimsy pedestals. The deciding factors should be your ability to build something more solid and efficient.

If you can weld, a much more solid base incorporating a tool box is not too hard to build on the cheap. A plywood cabinet type structure can be very strong and stable if built with quality adhesives and careful joinery.

Rather than spend $300 for the crappy PM base offering, I'd spend a little more money to build something that is more user friendly starting with a HF tool box.

www.harborfreight.com

27 in. x 22 in. Roll Cab, Series 3, Red

Amazing deals on this Red 27In Roller Cabinet at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

You would be miles ahead of a factory stand and have some convenient storage where you need it. It all comes down to your existing available space for tooling storage, and the size of your shop.
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Good idea.

Just bear in mind that the tool chest should probably just be that with the actual stand made from square steel tubing.

JMHO.

John
 
matthewsx said:
Good idea.

Just bear in mind that the tool chest should probably just be that with the actual stand made from square steel tubing.

JMHO.

John
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I fully agree and all of my stands are steel tubing surrounding the tool chest. If I didn't weld, a plywood box gingerly attached to a tool chest wouldn't bother me in the least!
 
I would build a stand long before I would buy the craptastic stands from a manufacturer.
Chances are the stand you build will be sturdier and have more storage options if you plan it correctly.
 
7milesup said:
I would build a stand long before I would buy the craptastic stands from a manufacturer.
Chances are the stand you build will be sturdier and have more storage options if you plan it correctly.
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ASnd get you the working height that suits you. I put my PM940M on a 10.5" riser.
 
MLab said:
Even if nod is not an issue with your particular machine, it still makes sense to anchor the top of your column on a square column bench mill. I periodically tram nod out using the mechanism depicted in the attached photos. The mechanism relieves nod as well as preventing the opposite of nod (whatever that's called) when heavy drilling or milling. Tramming out nod takes very light pressure on the adjustment....little more than finger tightening on my machine makes a difference. It's hard to imagine that anything other than very light milling won't lift the head. I'm getting a light crosshatch patterns where fly cutter or shell mill passes overlap. My bench for the mill is attached to the same wall as the adjustment mechanism....and it's heavy. Periodic adjustments are minimal and positive. It seems column shimming would do little more than provide tram when the mill is not under load. Seismic restraint is an incidental benefit when you live in AK.
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It looks a so smart thing to do. I still have not finished my pm940m concrete base. Can one make the anchor with concrete connected to the base and use it to provide anchor to the head? Will temp affect it during summer winter?
 
tominboise said:
@55fairlane, if you were to do it again, would you buy the base for you 728 or build one out of heavier material? I am about to push the checkout button on a new 728 but haven't yet decided on the base or not.
Click to expand...
@tominboise it's more then would I buy the stand or not. I would not buy the machine. Spend the same money on an American knee mill, you can buy a machine, have the ways scraped, DRO added ect ......now that being said, it this is your only option, as long as you know all the short comings it's probably a decent choice. If you can build a better stand your better off, otherwise you know the short coming
 
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