SB Rehab/Restoration

My advice is to use the diagram as your basis and play around. Not great advice as sparks and smoke are no fun, but those old motors are tough and can withstand quite a bit of abuse. You'll know when you have it right:)

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Its Sunday and the skys are blue,after receiving some help on how to wire the drum switch I just could not understand on how to make it work.After doing some googling and reading about running it in reverse taking a chance of the chuck unscrewing I decided to say "the heck with the drum switch" and I feel good now.I did install a toggle switch that is rated for the motor and it has a heater in it so thats a good thing.So after running the motor alittle upside down I took my hoist and flip it over without the cabinet crashing and dang it looks good.Yes I ran the motor again for about 15mins and its nice and quit and smooth,but when I turn it off I can hear the centrifical switch drop out.Since I started this project its been upside down from the beginning after stripping the paint,so the chip pan has been necked since I started so I had to sand it down again then clean with thinner and apply a layer of primer.Thats it for today,I'm a happy camper now I think I will just do some shop cleaning.Thanks for looking----kroll

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The black and blue colors look great, I really like that. Glad you got the motor sorted out.
 
Thanks,its a color that kinda grows on ya.Question on carriage stop,I took it apart to clean,lub and paint but I be dang I can't remember where the little pin thats next to the brass goes.I can't seem to find a cut sheet for this stop,any ideals or directions??Thanks ----kroll

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Happy New Yrs guys,today was a pretty good day for me and the SB.I devoted all day just on the headstock cleaning up and installing the spindle and the back gear.All went very well cause I took my time taking it apart and marking the brass shims which brings me to a question.I did install new felts with springs and oil everything down with spindle oil being careful putting the shims in the right place(so I thought).I do not have the spindle play adjusted yet(wait till its on the bed) but I do have the ring snug alittle which the spindle does not spin freely like the cone pulley.Will this loosen up some when I start to run it,or is there something else wrong?Guys before I started this project the spindle did spin good,so it was working.Now I'm second guessing myself thinking maybe I have a shim in the wrong place.That would be on the front cause one of the shims come loose from the bundle,maybe I have one in the wrong spot.Dang----kroll

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Happy New Yrs guys,todas a pretty good day for me and the SB.I devoted all day just on the headstock cleaning up and installing the spindle and the back gear.All went very well cause I took my time taking it apart and marking the brass shims which brings me to a question.I did install new felts with springs and oil everything down with spindle oil being careful putting the shims in the right place(so I thought).I do not have the spindle play adjusted yet(wait till its on the bed) but I do have the ring snug alittle which the spindle does not spin freely like the cone pulley.Will this loosen up some when I start to run it,or is there something else wrong?Guys before I started this project the spindle did spin good,so it was working.Now I'm second guessing myself thinking maybe I have a shim in the wrong place.That would be on the front cause one of the shims come loose from the bundle,maybe I have one in the wrong spot.Dang----kroll
Start by backing off the take-up collar (the ring) a hair and see if that frees it up. My guess is that it will. If not, we'll move on to step 2.
 
You only want that collar hand tight and then backed off a few degrees until it spins freely. Then lock it down.

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Thanks,I did not know that on the lock ring.I will give that a try and report back tomorrow so hopefully will not need step #2.
Its nice to have help,thanks guys---kroll
 
Kroll,

Shouldn't you have installed the drive belt before assembling the headstock?

Robert D.
 
No, he's fine. All Heavy 10's are under cabinet mounted drives and the belt is routed through a hole on each side of the headstock. Therefore they require a joined belt.

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