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What Would You Or Did You Do
- Thread starter OLEJOE
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2016
- Messages
- 64
Cleaned it with an oily patch and it felt really smooth. No tight or rough spots. When I spun it in the headstock the bore had a little wiggle to it. I dialed in the breech end but just eyeballed the muzzle end in the spider. I didn't turn it between center. Got the donor tore down. The threads on the other barrel measures 1.057 and wasn't real tight but not too loose either. Action is already counterbored but it's larger than the bore on the recoil lug.
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2016
- Messages
- 64
Well got r done. Still got to cut it off and crown the barrel. Headspace guage goes add tape no go. Can't close it with pressure. Had to do it twice. Used drill collet in tail stock first round. Wound up with a n oversized chamber. Used tail stock with dead center now reamer is a press fit. Very happy with the end results. I'll be a lot happier if it shoots good. I'll post some pics when I get it back together. Got a lot of practice setting headspace.
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2011
- Messages
- 4,139
Curiously enough,if the barrel is REASONABLY straight,it will still shoot accurately. It will alter the point of impact so you have to set the sights.
On a SMOOTH bore,you sight through the bore towards a light source,but not directly into the light. A straight bore will show uninterrupted straight rays of light. A lightly bent bore will show partial rays of light from muzzle to breech. Then,the barrel is straightened. This is how they test hand made unrifled barrels in Williamsburg. After they are made straight,they are rifled by pulling a cutter through them 600 times.
On a SMOOTH bore,you sight through the bore towards a light source,but not directly into the light. A straight bore will show uninterrupted straight rays of light. A lightly bent bore will show partial rays of light from muzzle to breech. Then,the barrel is straightened. This is how they test hand made unrifled barrels in Williamsburg. After they are made straight,they are rifled by pulling a cutter through them 600 times.
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2016
- Messages
- 64
I dropped a 2 inch x .256 guage pin in at the muzzle and it fell straight through. Got it crowned but still have to get the stock fore end relieved for the barrel. Went with the shouldered setup. Used a jig to hold the recoil lug in position. Pretty easy but time consuming. Being my first time. Measure 3 times and cut 2 or 3 times. Surprised myself. First pic is an attempt to photograph the chamber through the action.
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What caliber did you end up going with? I've been shooting Creedmoor and 6.5x47 competitively for several years now and can steer you in the right direct as far as loads go. I got my old SB 10L about 3 years ago with having zero machine experience and was chambering and threading a few months later. I started out using range rods and reaming .030 at a time. Now I've ditched the rods and went to a long stem interapid dti to dial everything in right off the grooves, then drill and prebore about .030 under size, then ream. I use Bartlein and Hawk Hill for my comp rifles, but have used many a Green Mountain blank for others like 223 and 22-250 and they are exceptionally good for the price. You can get a 1.060" diameter GM blank in SS for $105. Perfect for setting up a savage or remmy with a nut.
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2016
- Messages
- 64
I went with the Creedmoor because of factory ammo. I also ditched the barrel nut for a shouldered set up. I would be delighted to hear some of your Creedmoor loads that work. I'm doing the break in right now. Work till 7, shoot 1 shot, clean and clean. I live where I can shoot out the back door and have a 5 yard dirt backstop at 25 yds. I also have a 100 yd range on my property. PM me some of your load data if you don't mind. Thanks
