- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,634
I use that style and have found slow speeds work best if working with steel.Let us know how it works. I have a tough time with that style chattering.
I use that style and have found slow speeds work best if working with steel.Let us know how it works. I have a tough time with that style chattering.
I have a set of Ecklind allen wrenches, they are nice. They are true to size and a bit longer than the imports. I use them all the time.I bought this set of allen wrenches at an auction a week ago. It was cheap - maybe because it was missing the 3/16" size.
So I went online to see about replacing the missing one.
Amazon had replacement sizes so I bought the one I needed.
I just looked and the tool store that everyone here loves has a similar Complete set for $8.
Ecklind wants $43 for theirs.
I have about $15 in this set now.
I doubt the Ecklinds are 5 times better than the cheap ones.
But I'm glad to own yet another tool from a good American company.
Maybe that’s my problem. I’ll give it a shot.I use that style and have found slow speeds work best if working with steel.
Love those sites. Well, back when I could see.A McMaster order arrived today:
10' of control wire, a 3/8" Bondhus blade, and to coupler nuts. Now I can get the motor wired to the drum switch and get the bed tied to the workstation in the way I (think) I want. Also, I found this at a garage sale on Sunday:
A Diana 45 in .177. This is one of the better German air rifles from the eighties. She is a real sweat shooter, especially with the diopter sight I pulled out of my parts bin. Air guns are great because I can shoot them in my basement before my wife gets up in the morning.
I haven’t checked my 2-4-6 blocks (specs say 5/8-11 tapped & 5/8” through), but all of my 1-2-3 sets that have tapped holes seem to have through holes that are either cast ready for a tap drill or drilled with the tap drill. This makes sense from a manufacturing perspective, even though not from a usefulness one.Make sure the holes are drilled larger than the threaded ones, most cheap imports have the same (or close) size which makes it fun to bolt together.
I am sooo glad to hear you say that. I use that style most of the time, carbide and HSS from 1/4" to 2" diameter. In all the material from plastic to hardened steel I run the mill or the lathe as slow as I can go, usually in the 60 rpm range.I use that style and have found slow speeds work best if working with steel.
I will try slowing it to under 100, I have always run them fast and start off feathering them a bit.I am sooo glad to hear you say that. I use that style most of the time, carbide and HSS from 1/4" to 2" diameter. In all the material from plastic to hardened steel I run the mill or the lathe as slow as I can go, usually in the 60 rpm range.
I was beginning to think I needed to put my colorful little hat with the propeller on top back on......................
Have you ever attempted to make one of the counter sinks with the hole through? I am not certain what the proper terminology is for those...And to clarify how I grind the single facet leade and back clearance (applies to ALL D-bits), here's a drawing.
The grey is the bit, the white space is ground away. The green shows that the facet is a 15 degree step.
View attachment 446743