What Did You Buy Today?

Oh have no fear, I know how to grind HSS into many forms for cutting, I just prefer not to.
Haven't figured out how to put emoji into a reply, but <smile> that was actually a comment for anyone in the future who may do a search for tangential tooling. I'm getting better at it. Just slightly above the clueless level when Mr. Schlesinger was trying to explain it in 1975.

The lightbulb moment for me was when I studied the "why" of an angle first, then focused on one grind nomenclature/face at a time and "why" this was needed. For some odd reason I remembered "Look at the rake of that bow." so I could conceive why those grinds were rakes.
 
Tekton, I was ignorant for a long time they are a US company, 9" wide, 1-1/2", jaw open end adjustable wrench with a 3/8" square drive in the handle. Figure it's not for heavy loads, just convenient, and can live on the carriage lock.

Went to different Habitat store and the pot looks like a good candidate for a grinder water pot.

Being a bit handicapped during the last month it was too easy to go shopping. I won't bore you with things most know what they look like; a set of angle blocks, some reamers, a 66-2 Dremel after one was posted here, a small set of ER 20 collets for my Unimat, and, uh, a Leonard Grind R Lap. As much as I love HHS, I wanted the monkey off my back to sharpen some carbide.
 

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Haven't figured out how to put emoji into a reply, but <smile> that was actually a comment for anyone in the future who may do a search for tangential tooling. I'm getting better at it. Just slightly above the clueless level when Mr. Schlesinger was trying to explain it in 1975.

The lightbulb moment for me was when I studied the "why" of an angle first, then focused on one grind nomenclature/face at a time and "why" this was needed. For some odd reason I remembered "Look at the rake of that bow." so I could conceive why those grinds were rakes.

@Shiseiji

Nose radius, front rake, side (flank) rake and top rake all play a part in how the ground tool works the material and how well a chip forms or not.

Nose radius, top rake and top rake angle (angled to left/neutral/angled to right) are the more important ones to remember but front and flank are also just as important to the type of tool you are trying to grind.

Never worry about experimenting with different angles. I was taught the "basic" geometry of grinding then told to grab a blank, grind a tool from it and see how it performed. Since then I have built up a sense of "this will work, this will not work" mainly due to that "now grab a blank, grind a tool and test it", going back to alter angles if needed.

Nothing else will teach faster than grinding and testing a tool will.
 
I log on to this page every other day or so. Have any of you ever felt like.... My shop is now complete? I have everything that is needed?
Absolutely not. There is always "something" that is either needed or required and when that need/requirement arises, it usually means dolling out the moolah.

Be it in terms of tools or tooling or specific supplies, there is always something that is required despite thinking "finally, I have everything I need".
 
I log on to this page every other day or so. Have any of you ever felt like.... My shop is now complete? I have everything that is needed?
I wish… I just saw those covers for the slots on the mill table (from @coolidge post)… I will order those when we return from vacation
 
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I log on to this page every other day or so. Have any of you ever felt like.... My shop is now complete? I have everything that is needed?
No... I don't have space... so I can never feel like I have everything I need.
When I get rid of something to free up space, I will then feel at a loss for not having the thing I just go rid of ..


Get it?.... I will never be happy ... Never I say...
 
@Shiseiji

Nose radius, front rake, side (flank) rake and top rake all play a part in how the ground tool works the material and how well a chip forms or not.

Nose radius, top rake and top rake angle (angled to left/neutral/angled to right) are the more important ones to remember but front and flank are also just as important to the type of tool you are trying to grind.

Never worry about experimenting with different angles. I was taught the "basic" geometry of grinding then told to grab a blank, grind a tool from it and see how it performed. Since then I have built up a sense of "this will work, this will not work" mainly due to that "now grab a blank, grind a tool and test it", going back to alter angles if needed.

Nothing else will teach faster than grinding and testing a tool will.
Thanks. I'm kinda a process guy, and why do we do that process? UH-1 loss of engine: Pitch & switch. Push the collective down and (in genera) point the aircraft mode at the ground to maintain rotor RPM. Why? So the main roters can autorotate. Flip the fuel control switch to manual. Why? To see if you can get the turbine to spin back up (and believe me when I say that when it doesn't, life gets very interesting).

What really helped me the most is the US Navy Machinery Repairman manual. Very succinct. " There are two relief angles and two take angles and the angle of keeness is formed by grinding a rake angles and a relief angles." Then the manual goes on to describe the "why." Then they also throw in a few more terms with the what and why.

May not help too many others, but it helped me and most likely helped to train thousands of Sailors. I looked through several editions from 1952 IIRC, to the latest. The verbage never changed.
 
I've come across another project. I've always admired these Tree 2UVRC milling machines. Hard to come across a good one.

Sharing some pictures of offloading it and a couple of the machine after I got it in the shop and got the dirt wiped off. The ways look to be in really good condition. No slop in the middle and not tight at the ends of travel. About .005 backlash.

I’ll be going through the head, and I believe there is a bearing or two in the knee that will need to be replaced. And, of course, there is usually a surprise or two.

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