- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 10,042
Piece of cake, and yes you have the ability. Just take a measurement of the internal size of the chuck. Load your backplate and machine close to that size. Sneak up testing the fit regularly.NEED MORE PICTUES Dave!!
WE love cats around here too!
Today I pulled the trigger on a threaded backplate for the Bison 4304-6 4 jaw that I bought a few years ago. and have yet to use.
Had to break out my old very used 4 jaw for a job yesterday and said to myself "NO MORE!!, get the new one ready to use!!"
Should be here in a couple days so I can have a good weekend project to look forward to.
Now, wondering if anyone here can walk me through machining this plate to fit the chuck.
I hear this is what has to be done and am a bit leery of my abilities in this department without a bit of guidance.
I was just assuming I could order a plate from Bison to fit the chuck so I reached out to Bison USA and they tell me the only thing they have tom fit the 9A w/1-1/2 x 8 TPI is the bare threaded plate.
I've heard the back plate needs to be made on the lathe it will be used on, correct??
I don't know if your chuck has through bolts to thread into the backplate, or you have a threaded chuck and need to drill the backplate out to match the threaded holes.
If through the chuck, use a transfer punch and set the hole location.
If the chuck is threaded, do you have transfer screws to mark the backplate? If not , set screws can be made to work. thread the set screws in, then using another allen wrench, cut it into small lengths. Put the small allen in a drill and put a point on the allen using a grinder or sander.
put the sharp end sticking up out of the set screw make as many as you need to mark the plate. Usually 3.
put the backplate on the chuck, the register should keep it aligned. Tap the backplate to mark the screw locations.
Drill , then counterbore the outside
Once you get it all machined take a few more thousandths off the register of the backplate. This will allow you to move the chuck slightly, to zero it out. Just loosen the bolts, and tap the chuck into zero while clamping a dowel pin or accurate shaft.
It really isn't hard, and is much easier than other work.
edit: my bad, it's a 4 jaw, it doesn't need to be as accurate as I describe.