What are factors for what "class" of lathe to buy?

[skcncx]

sold some car parts and other items and also purchased a PM728-VT mill; awesome as well. Here's a couple pics of my mini shop setup.

Nice setup... I figured a mill would be in the picture sometime soon.... I'll have to take a look at the PM728-VT you have.... looks like a great size and compliment to the lathe..

Last year I started delving into the metal working (primarily a wood worker to date) and got an aluminum welder (Fronius TransSteel 2200) and found metal working to be fun... so I'm not sure why, but I thought a lathe would be fun to have there have always been a few things that being able to custom turn would be fun instead of scouring the internet to find that small but usually simple part in some uncommon size... so I now I have my Atlas 618 and realizing I'm using it for more stuff.... though, In my hobby world, it's usually backwards... I buy the tool then find a use for it .

 

[Ischgl99]

I may have found a TEFC motor that will require minimal modifications. The Lafert AMPH series in a 90L frame has enough room for the fan, but extends a bit more in the front and may require shimming out the belt tensioning bracket, and of course change the sheave bore size to 24mm since it is a 90 frame. I was checking these measurements while contorted in uncomfortable positions, so my measurements may be off a bit, but this might be a winner.

https://www.lafertna.com/resources/product_files/pg._27_-_DIMENSIONS-AMPH_B3_-_LNA_CAT._2019.pdf

It only has a CT range of 6:1, so might not be so good if you run a lot at very low speeds, or overspeed it a lot, but 6:1 is plenty for me. And I’m sure it is much better than the stock motor. List prices are similar to Baldor street prices, so might be able to get this motor for a decent price too.

 

[skcncx]

Agree it would be best to get the 3ph unit stock and go with a static converter. Or just have @mksj do a conversion right away.

So, to summarize.

1. PM1236T 3ph
2. VFD conversion
3. Custom built stand per @davidpbest with tool chest underneath
4. Caster system or palette jack to move it around
5. Tooling as needed starting with BXA QCTP and 5c collet chuck

Anything else?

See how good we are at spending your money

John

P.S. Do you also need a mill?

It always easier and more fun to spend someone else's money . I think the 1236T with the idea of upgrading and adding a VFD is out of the picture... even as is if I go the 1236T, I'll probably delay the DRO. But it would make more sense to buy it as 3ph unit, add the VFD before the DRO... again, starting with a solid foundation.

I don't have 3 phase power in my shop... but I think what we are all referring to is a standard 220v outlet single phase going through a VFD is what converts it to 3 phase power.

P.S. Do you also need a mill?

Well, I don't "need" a lathe but I'm upgrading mine... so do I "need" a mill... I think it's the inevitable in the near future. I have a small, way over built cnc router for wood, it's certainly sturdy enough for aluminum as I have done some... but a spindle with more torque and dialing it down to slower RPM is the key. I can only go down to 6000 RPM on my current spindle. So, I've thought about trying a spindle where I can go from 100 to 2000 RPM mounted on the unit and see what works.

 

[Ischgl99]

It always easier and more fun to spend someone else's money . I think the 1236T with the idea of upgrading and adding a VFD is out of the picture... even as is if I go the 1236T, I'll probably delay the DRO. But it would make more sense to buy it as 3ph unit, add the VFD before the DRO... again, starting with a solid foundation.

I don't have 3 phase power in my shop... but I think what we are all referring to is a standard 220v outlet single phase going through a VFD is what converts it to 3 phase power.


Well, I don't "need" a lathe but I'm upgrading mine... so do I "need" a mill... I think it's the inevitable in the near future. I have a small, way over built cnc router for wood, it's certainly sturdy enough for aluminum as I have done some... but a spindle with more torque and dialing it down to slower RPM is the key. I can only go down to 6000 RPM on my current spindle. So, I've thought about trying a spindle where I can go from 100 to 2000 RPM mounted on the unit and see what works.

I wouldn’t let a VFD scare you off, a 2hp vfd is pretty cheap, you don’t need one with all the bells and whistles unless you plan on adding things like a proximity stop for threading that Mark Jacobs builds.

There is some wiring changes that need to be done, so if you have some skills in that area, it is pretty easy to do yourself. You would need to add a circuit for locking out the controls unless the feed level is in the off position on start up, but that is a couple relays, and might even be possible in some VFDs. Many of us here can walk you through that.

I bought a lathe first and then got a mill a few years later. If you enjoy making things, you will quickly realize a mill is valuable to have.

See, I’m helping you spend your money

 

[skcncx]

I wouldn’t let a VFD scare you off, a 2hp vfd is pretty cheap, you don’t need one with all the bells and whistles unless you plan on adding things like a proximity stop for threading that Mark Jacobs builds.

There is some wiring changes that need to be done, so if you have some skills in that area, it is pretty easy to do yourself. You would need to add a circuit for locking out the controls unless the feed level is in the off position on start up, but that is a couple relays, and might even be possible in some VFDs. Many of us here can walk you through that.

I bought a lathe first and then got a mill a few years later. If you enjoy making things, you will quickly realize a mill is valuable to have.

See, I’m helping you spend your money

Well, the VFD doesn't scare me off so much... sometimes tool mods are as much fun as any other project... I've assembled and wired up from scratch my entire 3 axis CNC, stepper motor controllers, VFD spindle, proximity sensors and all... so with enough reading, googling I'm sure I can figure it out.

I think my dilemma with all this just makes the 1236T even more $ and it was already out of what I wanted to spend, though I'm willing to stretch if it's leagues beyond the PM 1228. For my use, not sure it is... though, without a doubt the 1236T is better. But right now, if I was forced to buy, it's the PM 1228... just seems to be the best compromise being it is a hobby, my preferred budget and a huge leap over my Atlas 618.

Having very limited lathe experience overall, I don't think I can fully appreciate the 618 given what it is. If I had to boil it down to 3 things, it's the QCGB, DRO and "almost there" power for DOC for material removal on my 618... It's not size or rigidity of the 618... but if I'm going to replace and upgrade, I do want something larger. Going to a 12x seems like a good leap in size and weight from the 618, either the 450 lb. PM 1228 or the 850 lb. 1236T.

If I could magically ensure I have the smoothest, best built quality PM 1228, no warts or things I have to fix, it's a no brainer for me, given all the valuable input I've received via this thread. Many users have upgraded from the PM 1228 for various reasons, most seemingly because of size, not enough bed length but not because the quality was so bad. A "perfect" PM 1228 doesn't exist and if it's something with a little tuning and adjustments, I'm ok with that... I can't expect german/swiss engineering for my budget.

I'll stew on all this for a few days, but I want to get in line for one of these soon.

 

[mksj]

If you are space limited, and do not need a full length lathe, this may be a reasonable option which includes chucks, stand and DRO. You can always upgrade to 3 phase and a VFD at a later time if you find that you want to go that route.

EISEN 1324GHE Precision Bench Lathe with DRO & Stand, 1.5HP single-phase 220V

Features Digital readout (DRO) unit with X- and Z-axis optical scales included for ease of operation Bed is made of high tensile cast iron FC25. Hardened and ground bed ways Heat treated headstock gears Lubricated headstock D1-4 camlock spindle 18-step spindle speed High quality machine. Made...

eisenm.com

 

[Dabbler]

I put the Baldor on my 1340

I've always been a big fan of Baldor. It is hard to do any better at any price.

 

[skcncx]

If you are space limited, and do not need a full length lathe, this may be a reasonable option which includes chucks, stand and DRO. You can always upgrade to 3 phase and a VFD at a later time if you find that you want to go that route.

EISEN 1324GHE Precision Bench Lathe with DRO & Stand, 1.5HP single-phase 220V

Features Digital readout (DRO) unit with X- and Z-axis optical scales included for ease of operation Bed is made of high tensile cast iron FC25. Hardened and ground bed ways Heat treated headstock gears Lubricated headstock D1-4 camlock spindle 18-step spindle speed High quality machine. Made...

eisenm.com

Looks like a great option. I'd be ok with the size... and it does have one more RPM range between the 1100 and 1800, right around 1500 RPM... that may help mitigate the need for VFD... I don't need every single RPM possible. Just a good variety through the full range.

Granted, I really like the idea of buying from PM... local'ish (90 minutes for me), so far great responses to my email and gathered from others, they respond and help out their customers.

I'm sure there are others out there... I have done some searching, but it seems like they are the same, nothing standing out... so it seems all roaods have lead me back to PM and what they offer.

 

[Dabbler]

All I have heard about Eisen lathes seems to be positive. Just a few minor things, like from any supplier of offshore stuff.

 

[Dabbler]

On quick thought. I bought a 12X37 on a recommendation from a Tool and die maker, and I kinda thought he was a little crazy, becaue I wanted the 12X28, thinking my projects were mostly in the 2X2X2 envelope. Withing a year I was cantilevering the tailstock past the end of the bed to accommodate a wood turning project. A year later it was the same again for an aluminum project.

Since then, I've used the full bed length about 6 times. It saved me trying to locate someone else with a larger lathe to do my projects. This is over 43 years now. So the number of occurances is quite rare, but valuable when it comes up.

I have a friend that has a used Standard Modern 12X28, and he loves it - won't part with it, even though he has a 12X40 Colchester Toolroom and an Italian 16X50 lathe.