Unimat-sl db 200 restoration

I have a split bearing spreader and a hydraulic press, so I would take it off and replace the bearing. It sounds as if you know what you know what you want to do. I see that here a lot. Someone is afraid to do something and one of us gives you a little encouragement and you figure it out. Seeing it is anon precision machine and parts are missing . You maybe right and put ti back together and sell it. I would bet the center taper can be bought. I will bow out now. Good Luck.
 
I have a split bearing spreader and a hydraulic press, so I would take it off and replace the bearing. It sounds as if you know what you know what you want to do. I see that here a lot. Someone is afraid to do something and one of us gives you a little encouragement and you figure it out. Seeing it is anon precision machine and parts are missing . You maybe right and put ti back together and sell it. I would bet the center taper can be bought. I will bow out now. Good Luck.
here is the thing, I dont fully know what I want, I do know that I dont have like 90% of the tools they would use, no bearing spreader, no hydraulic press hell I am pretty sure this lathe is the heaviest tool I own (by pounds) when its fully together I would replace the bearings if I could as they are not one unit anymore and this type of bearing from what I know likes to be one part and still usable split like this the inner part of the bearing is so close to the front wall that I could not even get a pry wedge in there so I am doing what I can I dont have alot to sink into this project
 
here is the thing, I dont fully know what I want, I do know that I dont have like 90% of the tools they would use, no bearing spreader, no hydraulic press hell I am pretty sure this lathe is the heaviest tool I own (by pounds) when its fully together I would replace the bearings if I could as they are not one unit anymore and this type of bearing from what I know likes to be one part and still usable split like this the inner part of the bearing is so close to the front wall that I could not even get a pry wedge in there so I am doing what I can I dont have alot to sink into this project
So, thing is this hobby is kinda about tools. I have tools to build tools to make tools with:grin:

Didn't buy them all at once, and lots of them I got used or from Harbor Freight. Here’s a bearing separator:


You can improvise the hydraulic press with clamps, a hammer, or plenty of other things. Some auto parts stores even lend tools, but then you don’t get to keep them.

Now that you have the Unimat apart you have three choices:

1. Complete the repairs and learn how to use it.

2. Part it out on eBay and pocket the money.

3. Put it away in pieces and forget about it.

Choice is yours, but you’ve had the good fortune to have a true master tool rebuilder chime in on this thread.
If you want to move forward you’re in the right place, but…. We will tell you to buy more tools, that’s what we do here;)

John
 
I am going to try to repair it without replacing the bearings and if that does not work its not like it will be a ton of work to pull the spindle apart again and try once more, not going to sell it, and I dont tend to just shelf projects like this forever.
if it does not work will borrow/buy bearing separator or whats needed, but ya part of this is repairing this to make income have not had a stable job in years to the resin/wood stuff is to replace that so I could go out and buy a $100 tool to use once or twice
 
so I just looked over my wording on the last few post and see an area that was 100% misleading, when I said "put it back together and see" I was talking in the lines of cleaning it up, re-greasing it and seeing if it works, as there is no real damage to the bearings, the outer wall or the inner wall, all thats wrong with them is the shell plastic is missing and these guys might be so old they never had it had a hand drill like that ordering the grease now should be here in a few days
 
the bearings were designed to taken apart and cleaned, will run a great long time if set-up correctly, lubed correctly and free from corrosion.. (new bearing in photo)
 

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the bearings were designed to taken apart and cleaned, will run a great long time if set-up correctly, lubed correctly and free from corrosion.. (new bearing in photo)
most of the bearings I have seen being sold as replacements is this type with walls (pic taken from one store selling them at $40 a pop)
 

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Lex
You are getting lots of good advice here, but you probably need to also ask on the Unimat groups.io site. It will save you time and agro.
The spindle bearings are not your run-of-the-mill ones that you and many others here are used to. Some/most of what you are seeing is normal. The Deckel/Alexander d-bit grinders use similar bearings, where one of the races is part of the shaft, not separate.
 
Lex
You are getting lots of good advice here, but you probably need to also ask on the Unimat groups.io site. It will save you time and agro.
The spindle bearings are not your run-of-the-mill ones that you and many others here are used to. Some/most of what you are seeing is normal. The Deckel/Alexander d-bit grinders use similar bearings, where one of the races is part of the shaft, not separate.
I have applied to the group and got a message saying "waiting for admin to approve" so I guess its just a waiting game now
 
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