Unimat-sl db 200 restoration

[Richard King 2]

Here a funny show on Bearings made by SKF. These are huge bearings compare to yours, but it makes the point.

 

[Richard King 2]

will be taking apart the spindle tomorrow, if no one else has a "this should be use" I'll go with that, not sure what a 30% fill is (guessing 30% of the housing filled of grease) so might need some more info there, ^^; this project is out of my wheel house, I mainly fix computers so everything is new to me

Be sure to take some photos of how it comes apart. I would mark the end caps to the quill so you install it in the same locations. Use some baggies or plastic tubs to put the parts in. You can clean the bearings with brake cleaner, good grade of lacquer thinner. Be careful and don't spin the bearings with blowing are. Many times swish it in thinner and then empty the dirty stuff and pour in some new. Before packing the bearings spray it with fast dry brake cleaner. Now if it was a super precision spindle and class 7 or 9 bearings I would check the bearings before I took them of the shaft for a burnish mark * <--- looks like that.

On a precision bearing that's called the TIR mark or total Indicator run-out. If thats on your bearings, be sure to mark where they are mounted. and put them back on in the same place. On new installs or you forget to mark the shaft, you check the shaft mounting surface for it's TIR and mount the bearing 180 degree's from the shaft TIR so they off set one another. I doubt yours is that way, but check it out. If you want to se the class bearing or class of precision, call a local industrial supply and give them the bearing number. They should be able to look it up in a book.

 

[matthewsx]

Whatever this guy says ^^^^

 

[Richard King 2]

Ello Everyone I have just joined to hopefully pick some peoples brains for the info I cant find online in restoring a unimat-sl db 200 that fell into my lap

View attachment 394239

right now my main projects are little things made from resin and wood so this will help alot the plan is to restore this as close to original as I can with what I have.
I am unlikely to hunt down OG parts for it unless I need to as they are costly for how tiny this little lathe is.

lets get to what I need help with so far.

1: does anyone know of a digi copy of the OG manual? the few links I have found via video and googling are all dead what I mainly want from it is how the spindle is put back together as I think mine is missing the preload washers some video have talked about not 100% sure on this as I am waiting to borrow a parts washer before I finish taking the spindle apart

2: what grease do I need to repack the spindle? the only info I have found that's not a product no longer sold is "never #2 grease" its to solid from what they have said

3: should the back gear plate (the darker part of the chuck) be able to come off? the chuck is a bit rusty so was going to soak it in Evapo-Rust to help clean it up as I do this.

4: one of the things that's missing of main parts are centers was wondering would it be reasonable for a brand new person to turn down the shaft of some cheap ones from amazon or the like? I missed my window for buying some off ebay and the ones on amazon are 1mm to big if their measurements can be believe

5: I know the OG motor is a 80% cycle one (8 minutes on 2 minutes off for cool down) are there full cycle motors out there that can be mounted on the old bracket and are still drive the unit proper? every thing I have seen been this big clunky thing with a control box mounted on like a steel plate and was hoping to keep this guy moveable and able to go back into the OG box I have

this is all I have for now I am sure more things will come up as this goes on, I plan on repainting it, saw a few video of the same paint type in a nice dark blue so will likely hunt that down once I am ready for painting (never liked machine green paint saw to much of it in the 89/90s)
if more pictures are needed/wanted I can take more forgot to grab one before I started taking it apart

Just looked at the picture with the motor. I may have carbon brushes. The round cap on bottom of the motor. If there is one on the opposite side, I would unscrew the cap and pull out the brushes or they may break if you leave them in when you pull it apart. Be slow and careful when you pull it apart.

 

[Lex_Peacekeeper]

not what I wanted to find when I did this likely both bearings need to be replaced, and maybe the shaft, the inner wall of the head side bearing seems to have fused with the shaft, I stopped here as I am not sure what to do at this point maybe just clean out out re grease it and put it back together but not sure, replacing the bearings would have been fine they are not costly unless you go after OG ones, but replacing the shaft and maybe the shell? that's going to be a pretty penny the grease is like mud so likely no clue there what type it was

 

[tghsmith]

actually that doesn't look bad at all, I would clean it up and put it together with some light grease and see how it feels.. the center points could be turned but a "buddy bar" that matches the spindle and tailstock works much better to set the head alignment.. finding a live center for the tailstock is money well spent...

 

[Richard King 2]

On many spindles the builder drilled holes that line up with the front bearing inside race. Look the the chuck side and see if there are blind holes or tapped holes. If they are tapped try screwing in a cap screw to push the race off. Many times after you run out of bolt threads put in a short hardened dowel pin under the bolt.

On a blind hole use a alignment punch and tap a little on each side to keep it coming off evenly. It is probably a press fit and looked fused. There are other methods to remove the inner race and I would bet you can find how on You Tube. What are you holding that is blue? It's dirty with grease and I don't know what your showing us. You should micrometer the haft and if it is round, you can squirt on some Loc-tite to compensate for looseness. It looks like there are 2 seals on the ends?

 

[Lex_Peacekeeper]

On many spindles the builder drilled holes that line up with the front bearing inside race. Look the the chuck side and see if there are blind holes or tapped holes. If they are tapped try screwing in a cap screw to push the race off. Many times after you run out of bolt threads put in a short hardened dowel pin under the bolt.

On a blind hole use a alignment punch and tap a little on each side to keep it coming off evenly. It is probably a press fit and looked fused. There are other methods to remove the inner race and I would bet you can find how on You Tube. What are you holding that is blue? It's dirty with grease and I don't know what your showing us. You should micrometer the haft and if it is round, you can squirt on some Loc-tite to compensate for looseness. It looks like there are 2 seals on the ends?

that "blue" thing is the shell of the spindle in the mounting for the main unit had to put in somewhat back in there just so I could grip the bloody thing that photo was more just showing how mud like the grease was in there as that was the area with the most so it could be seen better in a photo, I just checked there are no holes other then the tummy bar hole and the main shaft hole added a drawing I found that shows more or less how it goes together, its not 100% there but with the photo of the parts the missing info is easy to guess

 

[Lex_Peacekeeper]

actually that doesn't look bad at all, I would clean it up and put it together with some light grease and see how it feels.. the center points could be turned but a "buddy bar" that matches the spindle and tailstock works much better to set the head alignment.. finding a live center for the tailstock is money well spent...

I am likely going to try to just put it back together and see, did a little digging and if the inner wall of the bearing is fused to the shaft most people say its junk at that point, there's no spacer at all from where that bearing sits to the front wall of the spindle so no way to get any sort of prying tool in there to pull it off, also need to figure out some sort of back plate, this one is missing its little sealing washer that keeps the grease inside it, still no luck on a center dead or live I can get some off amazon but would have to turn them down about 1mm to fit this little guy

 

[Lex_Peacekeeper]

alright spindle is now clean, so many paper towels used, I have an extra washer that I am not sure what its doing there the bearings themself look fine its just they are free of their housing now looking at that drawing that washer was ment to be in front of the front most bearing, likely to make it easy to remove it not sure what that hole on the back end of the shaft is for, its not on anything I can find for the spindle and seems to be done by hand and is roughly threaded