Turning Tool And Facing Tool Questions

[mikey]

You're welcome, Joe.

I should note that I normally do not hone the top of the tool quite so much, at least not enough to create a step and lower the top of the tool as I did. This happened because I didn't have a fresh 80 grit belt to smooth out the tool after I shaped it with my 24 grit belt. My belts were over 2 years old and the splice was giving out so I chose to hone the grind marks out rather than risk my hands. Ordinarily, the top rake would not show a step.

 

[Strtspdlx]

Alright Mikey now we have pictures of your work. Needless to say I'm rethinking my entire tooling collection now. I normally grind no back rake in my tooling. I try to grind 15-20* "slant" on the top(sorry I still for the life of me cannot remember the correct terminology. I think I will try it on my grinder some time this week. As far as honing goes. How important would you say it is to use a diamond home verse a standard hardware store knife sharpening stone? I do have a belt sander I just need to find a motor for it and some other miscellaneous parts. Seeing your tools I may have to make that a priority. I definitely want to try a tool with that much back take. As I said I normally grind with none. But some of my tools May have an ever so slight back rake. Also are you using all your tools in a qctp that holds the tools horizontal or a latern style that normally has about left right or straight tool holder with preset of 15* back rake?


Regards-Carlo

 

[Bill C.]

When you get the tool bit shaped and sharpen the way you like find a way to mark it or store it so in six months from now you will remember what it was used for.

About everyone of us have a few bits we use more than others. I think I may have six HHS bits I used almost all the time.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

you can play with side and back rake to get the chips curling at the DOC you want to use - more rake tends to = curlier chips - but if you take it too far the tip won't hold up as well plus the bit can start digging in, on brass or gummy alu for example.

as for honing, store knife stones may be too coarse. I've used a medium and a hard Arkansas stone (I think I posted the link earlier) for years with great success and recently got a fine diamond hone which is a little easier to use but gives the same result. I tend to leave that one for touching up carbide bits.

 

[mikey]

Alright Mikey now we have pictures of your work. Needless to say I'm rethinking my entire tooling collection now. I normally grind no back rake in my tooling. I try to grind 15-20* "slant" on the top(sorry I still for the life of me cannot remember the correct terminology. I think I will try it on my grinder some time this week. As far as honing goes. How important would you say it is to use a diamond home verse a standard hardware store knife sharpening stone? I do have a belt sander I just need to find a motor for it and some other miscellaneous parts. Seeing your tools I may have to make that a priority. I definitely want to try a tool with that much back take. As I said I normally grind with none. But some of my tools May have an ever so slight back rake. Also are you using all your tools in a qctp that holds the tools horizontal or a latern style that normally has about left right or straight tool holder with preset of 15* back rake?


Regards-Carlo

Hi Carlo, glad to hear from you.

As long as the stone is flat and it removes the grinding marks you should be fine. I prefer diamond stones only because they stay flat and cut efficiently for a long time. They do cost more, though.

If you can grind side rake then you can grind back rake, Carlo. Both angles are ground at the same time and are very simple to do. Not using back rake is your choice, of course, if it is a choice. However, if you are not sure how it is ground then that's another thing. If that is the case, let me know.

I do use an Aloris QCTP, not a lantern tool post.

I use a belt sander because it is much faster and easier to grind tools. It is also theoretically safer. However, as good as it is, it is the tool rest that makes it so easy to use.

 

[mikey]

... as for honing, store knife stones may be too coarse. I've used a medium and a hard Arkansas stone (I think I posted the link earlier) for years with great success and recently got a fine diamond hone which is a little easier to use but gives the same result. I tend to leave that one for touching up carbide bits.

I like stones for some work too, Matt. I use a fine India followed by a translucent Arkansas on my gravers and the edge is superb. Using diamond stones I can put an edge on my turning tools that will slice a clean cut in paper or a finger with no problem but I could do surgery with my gravers.

 

[Strtspdlx]

Hi Carlo, glad to hear from you.

As long as the stone is flat and it removes the grinding marks you should be fine. I prefer diamond stones only because they stay flat and cut efficiently for a long time. They do cost more, though.

If you can grind side rake then you can grind back rake, Carlo. Both angles are ground at the same time and are very simple to do. Not using back rake is your choice, of course, if it is a choice. However, if you are not sure how it is ground then that's another thing. If that is the case, let me know.

I do use an Aloris QCTP, not a lantern tool post.

I use a belt sander because it is much faster and easier to grind tools. It is also theoretically safer. However, as good as it is, it is the tool rest that makes it so easy to use.

I wouldn't say I don't know how to make the angle. I'm not sure in my case it's completely necessary. Grinding isn't hard for me. Can it be tricky of course. In just considering the fact that standard all my lantern style took holders have I believe a 15* back rake already built into the holder. So do I need additional back rake or is this mainly used when you're using holders that hold the tool perfectly perpendicular to the work?
Also I've been watching this thread. Just not commenting because I should sit back and listen sometimes. And the. Everything got busy and life over ruled everything. I haven't touched my lathe in probably 3-4 months. It's very depressing. I need to get back at it.


Regards-Carlo

 

[mikey]

If you're using a lantern tool post that angles the bit upward then it is assumed this provides back rake so you may not need more than that for ferrous materials. You may need more for aluminum, and significantly less for brass. As long as you know how to accommodate your materials then you're all good, Carlo.

I don't use these posts but if I did then I think tool geometry would be very interesting.

Yeah, life has a way of getting in the way of things sometimes. Hope you're okay.

 

[Strtspdlx]

I'm fine. Just too much in the pile at once. I have a bunch of blanks I'd like to grind and see if I can't use some of the knowledge I. This thread. I need to fix that belt sander I have. It would be really nice to use it. I also have a fairly good stock of larger tool blanks for when I get a qctp I didn't want to purchase one until I got a larger lathe but that won't happen till after I purchase a mill and that won't happen for a good bit of time.


Regards-Carlo

 

[Strtspdlx]

So I put a bit of back rake in my tools because when I looked at the angle the cutter was at when In the tool post it was basically level or slightly nose down. That would be negative rake? So I put some back rake into the tool approximately 8-12* and wow. What a difference. I really need to figure out chip control though. The Long curlies are getting to be annoying. Finish and cut effort wise it's a whole different animal. The machine sounds so less loaded even in a .050 cut.


Regards-Carlo