Ooof. Yep, that answers that question. Thanks for posting that.
I thought I would have some time tonight to work on the Voron, but no. It turns out that the latest Twitter breach has resulted in one of my emails being purchased on the dark web. The result is moving my important accounts over to what has become my primary email. The thing that torques me off (other than Musk being a twit) is that the only reason I signed up for Twitter was my union at work asked me to do it, and that was years ago (2005-2006). I haven't used Twitter since, and now I never will.
I purchased this one. It wasn't much money, but it sure performs well. I have another one that is slightly larger for doing the servo connectors on my RC aircraft but need another for the small JST-PH connectors.
Good to hear about that crimper. I keep notes on crimpers, seem to have a collection but that one is not in it, at least not yet. I have some others that may do the job, but it's good to know what worked for others in case that's needed.
I purchased this one. It wasn't much money, but it sure performs well. I have another one that is slightly larger for doing the servo connectors on my RC aircraft but need another for the small JST-PH connectors.
IWISS Mini Micro Open Barrel Crimping Tools Works on AWG28-20 JAM, Molex, Tyco, JST Terminals and Connectors used for FPV, Drone Servo https://a.co/d/2oia24T
It's simple, and not as convenient since you have to crimp the insulator and conductor crimps separately, but works for really tiny stuff that my other one won't do.
IWISS Mini Micro Open Barrel Crimping Tools Works on AWG28-20 JAM, Molex, Tyco, JST Terminals and Connectors used for FPV, Drone Servo https://a.co/d/2oia24T
It's simple, and not as convenient since you have to crimp the insulator and conductor crimps separately, but works for really tiny stuff that my other one won't do.
Yes, the Iwiss IWS-2820M. Steve of Steve Builds on utub prefers that one for JST etc. I have that on my list too. I do have the similar Engineer PA09 that many like for the same use case. Definitely a good crimper for the small stuff. Lately the Engineer PA09 clones have been found to not be as good, so one has to be careful there, mine is an older one.
Edited a bit... hard to differentiate these
Another good one is the Iwiss SN-025 for Dupont connectors and Molex. It is said to handle the staggered insulation clamps better.
Another one is the Iwiss SN-28B which is said to be good for Dupont and JST pins.
At least these crimpers are fairly inexpensive compared to the industrial ones we used to have to use, those were hundreds of dollars! So buying a few is not going to break the bank.
Not sure if either of you are planning a purge bucket and brush, but I just finished mine.
I originally wasn't planning on doing one, but got bored today and thought I'd try it. It was alot easier to get installed and the macro added than I expected. I added the macro to the G32 command, so that it will always use the brush before homing, during actual prints.
Getting to the electronics bay on my Voron has been a pain in the butt. Since the day I finished the build, every time i need to get under it I've had to set up some spacers on the back to protect the exhaust fan and shroud, and have the wife move the spacers in place has i tilt it backwards.
This morning I spotted this pic on the internet!
I modeled a very similar set, except I used the standard Voron honeycomb pattern inside. They should be finished printing this evening.
I'm up to 461 hours on mine. Still running great! I seem to have all the bugs worked out, and can trust it now to run all night without issue. My longest print so far is 36 hours.
One of the more recent "bugs" that I worked out was the Bowden PTFE tube. The stock design has the tube exiting the rear of the exhaust filter housing, then making a loop before connecting to the "Bowden tube retainer".
I was having to keep the drive roller tension at a setting that just seemed tighter than normal, due to the force needed to pull the filament around that loop. I say "tighter than normal" but, I have no idea what's normal for a Voron, but definitely tighter than in my Flashforge.
So, I redesigned the tube entry point on the hosing to eliminate the loop, and reduce the amount of force needed to pull the filament in. My version drastically reduces the amount of force needed to pull the filament through the tube. I have about 10 hours on the new version so far, and its working very well.
Somehow, it has also noticeably improved the vertical sidewall surface finish of my parts. I havn't yet figured out the mechanics of that, but it definitely improved what was already a pretty good finish. I just assumed the sidewall finish was normal for a gantry type printer, a resonance or something. But, since the new tube feed setup seems to have fixed it, I guess not.
Just a wild-assed guess, but perhaps it was pulling hard enough to cause a little flex in the toolhead, or something.
Anyway, here is a before and after of the surface finish.
with the stock Voron rear tube feed. Polymaker Polyterra Matte Yellow:
and after. This is the same Polymaker Polyterra, but in Matte black. You can clearly see the difference. This is the second iteration of my side entry housing. Version 2.0, that has the mount for a tube guide / funnel. This part was printed with the first version of the side entry housing installed.
Anyway. Should either of you want to try the side feed exhaust housing, I put it up on Printables.com. Here is the link:
I got mine to lay down some plastic last night. It was a slog getting the config file to work, with most of the issue centered around the Tap head.
I will post more later tonight. At work at the moment.
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