If you watch the knurler build videos by Clough42, you'll see that he adapts to the slightly smaller dimensions. Contrast that with the Inheritance Machining videos where he decides that the under-sizing won't allow him to machine every surface.... and thus the raw stock must be replaced for him to build it "right"..I don't know who your suppliers are in your day to day job, but I suspect most companies would look askance at a supplier who sent them out of spec materials. When I worked at Cosworth, if we paid for aluminium ingots or mould sand, we expected to get what we paid for.
Hemingway explicitly state:
The materials are not there as a courtesy. They're part of the product; what the OP paid for.
That the OP worked around the defective supplied stock is to their credit; not something the buyer should have to do.
So with respect, you're talking bollocks!
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Review of Hemingway Sensitive Knurler Kit
- Thread starter rronald
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So with respect, you're talking bollocks!
@SouthernChap
That is brutal English honesty that takes no prisoners! I like it!!
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Oh I'm not saying anyone should return the kit with an angry letter and dog-turd enclosed!
I'd have had a go and tried to accommodate the undersized stock like you did.
But I'd have also contacted Hemingway and politely let them know.
Most good companies these days would be grateful for the feedback so they could make sure they got it right next time. They'd also probably offer some sort of goodwill gesture.
What you got, was not what you paid for, and that should always be resolved.
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Eh, I did add a smiley. We're still all brothers and sisters in our hobby.
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WRONG!
Correct. It was clearly paid for, since the plans can be had with out the stock.
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Never mind the bollocks- here's the sex pistols!
LOL
LOL
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Not heard that for a while!!
I'll now claim partial success. Here's a test knurl. It's obviously not perfect.. I started by doing several sections.....under power and by hand. At some point, I decided to do multiple passes. And that seemed OK, so I decided to go over all the previous knurls and make one long one. So the pattern shifts a little bit.
I bought two knurling wheels along with the kit. I believe they are left hand/right hand wheels. Since they can be flipped over, I can run them as left and right (which is the way they were in for this test) and I believe that makes for a diamond pattern. Or they can be installed with both wheels having the same angle. Not sure what that pattern would be. The following pic shows the wheels in their current installation:
I do have another problem. My ELS (Electronic Lead Screw) on the lathe doesn't seem to have sufficient torque for knurling. I'm going to post in one the PM Forums specific to the CLough 42 ELS to see if anyone over there has any ideas about how to fix or mitigate this.
I bought two knurling wheels along with the kit. I believe they are left hand/right hand wheels. Since they can be flipped over, I can run them as left and right (which is the way they were in for this test) and I believe that makes for a diamond pattern. Or they can be installed with both wheels having the same angle. Not sure what that pattern would be. The following pic shows the wheels in their current installation:
I do have another problem. My ELS (Electronic Lead Screw) on the lathe doesn't seem to have sufficient torque for knurling. I'm going to post in one the PM Forums specific to the CLough 42 ELS to see if anyone over there has any ideas about how to fix or mitigate this.
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2023
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- 1,285
@rronald
Three things I was taught when knurling...
Use plenty of cutting oil, use more pressure than you think you need when you tighten the knurls down on to the work, unless you only want a "light" knurl and lock the cross slide.
Knurl wheels used for diamond knurling with scissor knurls / clamp knurls are paired (as are straight knurls actually), though if you have two sets of each size knurl you can use two left or two right wheels to create a diagonal knurl, not that it is recommended.
Also, size of the knurl wheel pattern you use is dependant on work diameter. There is a formula for that and it is easy enough to find but one simple method is to divide the stock diameter by the diametrical pitch if using diametrical knurl wheels.
Other than that, there is an online calculater here: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/calculators/knurl (<<< LINK)
Another thing, again, just my own experience, is which way the wheels are fitted (left at top, right at bottom or visa-versa) makes no difference to the pattern of the diamond knurl, though one way over the other depends on direction of travel.
I have had the best success when running fairly slowly (sub-250rpm) and do a two way pass. (one towards chuck, one away from chuck).
May just be my personal experience and I may have been taught incorrectly, but the results speak for themselves.
Also, once the knurl is completed, I usually wind the cross slide backwards to release the work from the knurler, rather than undo it.
Three things I was taught when knurling...
Use plenty of cutting oil, use more pressure than you think you need when you tighten the knurls down on to the work, unless you only want a "light" knurl and lock the cross slide.
Knurl wheels used for diamond knurling with scissor knurls / clamp knurls are paired (as are straight knurls actually), though if you have two sets of each size knurl you can use two left or two right wheels to create a diagonal knurl, not that it is recommended.
Also, size of the knurl wheel pattern you use is dependant on work diameter. There is a formula for that and it is easy enough to find but one simple method is to divide the stock diameter by the diametrical pitch if using diametrical knurl wheels.
Other than that, there is an online calculater here: https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/calculators/knurl (<<< LINK)
Another thing, again, just my own experience, is which way the wheels are fitted (left at top, right at bottom or visa-versa) makes no difference to the pattern of the diamond knurl, though one way over the other depends on direction of travel.
I have had the best success when running fairly slowly (sub-250rpm) and do a two way pass. (one towards chuck, one away from chuck).
May just be my personal experience and I may have been taught incorrectly, but the results speak for themselves.
Also, once the knurl is completed, I usually wind the cross slide backwards to release the work from the knurler, rather than undo it.
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