Review of Hemingway Sensitive Knurler Kit

[WobblyHand]

I was not referrring to a static knurl as you are, I was referring to a "more than the knurl wheel width" knurl.

I am not referring to a static knurl at all. This applies to any knurl. I've made 6" long knurls this way, manually, on a mini-lathe, with the half nuts disengaged. It works the same way with an ELS system (if it is disengaged).

Here is the knurl which was continuous. I cut little bands afterwards. Yeah, that's a rust spot, from Tap Magic cutting oil.

Here is a knurler and plinth I made from Mikey's plans on HM.

And this is the lathe I made the knurl on, manually. Half nuts were disengaged. I just moved the carriage. A 7x16 mini-lathe. The plinth bolts to the cross slide after removing the compound.

 

[GrifterGuru]

I am not referring to a static knurl at all. This applies to any knurl. I've made 6" long knurls this way, manually, on a mini-lathe, with the half nuts disengaged. It works the same way with an ELS system (if it is disengaged).

How is that? I have never seen that done and was always taught for a travelling knurl, to have the half-nuts engaged.

 

[WobblyHand]

I was never taught anything on machining. So I was unencumbered by any knowledge! I didn't know any better...
I tried what I said. It works. See post #41. It wasn't a fluke, I've done it multiple times. This was simply the first piece that I could get my hands on tonight.

Edit: I did learn a lot from here on HM, and I learned a lot from Mikey, RIP. I built my knurler based on his project thread https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-straddle-knurler-for-the-sherline-lathe.83843/

 

[WobblyHand]

How is that? I have never seen that done and was always taught for a travelling knurl, to have the half-nuts engaged.

It doesn't seem to be necessary, in my experience. Sometimes things that we learn aren't always true... There seems to be lots of ways to get things done, some less conventional than others.

 

[WobblyHand]

Apologies to @rronald Didn't mean to hijack your thread.

On topic. Your knurler has an elegant design. Mine's rather utilitarian and not very "pretty". I was really new to machining when I made mine. The knob on the knurler was my first knurl using the tool - the knurl is wider than the knurl wheels.

More to the point, try manual knurling, it's not that difficult and I haven't found an issue with tracking if the pressure is set correctly. If you want to upgrade your servo, have fun with that too!

 

[rronald]

I tried today to pretty mine up. I went out and bored the inside curve next to the knurling wheels to clean up where I'd originally just bandsawed the shape. Did the knurls on the handles. And blue'd the normal steel flat stock. My blueing isn't great...and a got a bit on the lever arm that I didn't intend to.

But I'm happy how it turned out and the knurling works well.

 

[heli_av8tor]

I have the kit lying in wait and am thinking of machining the right side plate with a dovetail to fit my BXA QC tool post. This will require moving the actuator to the left side.

Anyone see a downside to this modification?
Tom

 

[GrifterGuru]

I have the kit lying in wait and am thinking of machining the right side plate with a dovetail to fit my BXA QC tool post. This will require moving the actuator to the left side.

Anyone see a downside to this modification?
Tom

The only "downside" of moving the actuator to the opposite side would be restricting how close to the chuck you could get with the knurler.

Other than that? I, personally, do not see any issues.

 

[buffdan]

I was fortunate to come across an original Marlco, years ago.
does a nice job.. Glad that Hemingway came out with a kit..

Now if they only came out with a cut knurler kit! Cut knurlers work great.

 

[rronald]

I have the kit lying in wait and am thinking of machining the right side plate with a dovetail to fit my BXA QC tool post. This will require moving the actuator to the left side.

Anyone see a downside to this modification?
Tom

The more stuff on the left side, the higher probability that the "stuff" may interfere with the chuck, a part, or a rotating guard for the chuck. Stuff on the right side should be more likely to be "interference free".

The Hemingway kit mentions that the cam lever is designed to fit on either side.