Tell me about this 14-1/2 x 6’

[rwdenney]

Which handle is broken?

Maybe I'm missing something... the only handle I don't see is the backgear engagement... it looks like all the apron controls are there...?

-Bear

I agree with Bear... I can't see what handle is broken. The apron selection shifter is still there (at least in the photos).

SLK "color me confused" 001.

Confusing on my part—sorry. In the post from a couple of days ago, when the lathe was buried in junk, the carriage drive handle (the one on the left) isn’t in the apron but is resting in the chip tray over by the tail of the bed.



I just stuck it in place to see if it fit in brittle fracture and had left it there for the last picture after cleaning up the area.

I did drop the apron a bit and propped up the carriage to look in there, and nothing seems jammed. But of course I’ll take the apron apart and try to understand what happened. My guess is Uncle’s assistant at some point couldn’t get it to move, and leaned on it too hard, maybe with a pry bar.

The part itself is #35 on the parts diagram below—the is the 1995 parts book that shows it as NLA for the 14-1/2.



@tq60 that’s exactly what I was thinking, but even easier than I was thinking. There is definitely enough topology in the fracture surface to interlock solidly. A half-inch bolt sounds about right. I don’t care if the head remains—I’m a fixer not a restorer.

Rick “a little upset earlier but feeling better now” Denney

 

[tq60]

Been there done that with different part on different lathe.

Easy simple fix, careful execution required for best outcome.



Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[gard]

I think you can remove the remaining shaft from the handle by driving out the tapered pin. Once you have rest of the part removed from the apron, you can decide if you want to source a used part, make a new shaft (or entire part) or repair the existing shaft. also decide if the repair should be from the front or back. Repair might not be my first choice.
When replacing a tapered pin on new parts I think it is typical to drill and ream a new taper pin hole thru the shaft and handle offset from the old hole.
Most of the work I do on the lathe involves turning the handles manually so I would suggest using the lathe as it is for awhile. Depending on where the handle was when it was broken you may be still able to use one of the power feed options.
Drain, flush and replace the head stock oil.

 

[mattthemuppet2]

the collet chuck looks like it uses tapered collets made for the chuck and home made sleeves to reduce the ID to one that isn't covered by the collets. They're pretty simple to make and I'd imagine alot easier/ cheaper to source for the original owner than new collets in different sizes.

 

[rwdenney]

the collet chuck looks like it uses tapered collets made for the chuck and home made sleeves to reduce the ID to one that isn't covered by the collets. They're pretty simple to make and I'd imagine alot easier/ cheaper to source for the original owner than new collets in different sizes.

Yes—one of the collet sleeves had a slit that wasn’t exactly a straight line, suggesting to me a shop-made item. The whole thing may be shop-made. If it tests while it might be a cool thing to have, particularly in the larger sizes not accommodated by the 4C collets.

I have purchased a collet draw bar and spindle sleeve that has the correct measurements and is marked South Bend, so I think it’s for the 14-1/2. It should be here soon, and then I’ll test it on the lathe in the next couple of weeks. I want to eventually find a milling attachment, so I’m thinking tool holding is the objective, primarily, for the two collet systems.

But I still haven’t made primary accuracy measurements in the lathe yet. I’m positive it is not precisely level, though, so I would expect it to turn tapers at present. I’ll probably wait on that until I get it in my shop.

Rick “waiting for a good deal on 4C collets” Denney

 

[rwdenney]

I think you can remove the remaining shaft from the handle by driving out the tapered pin. Once you have rest of the part removed from the apron, you can decide if you want to source a used part, make a new shaft (or entire part) or repair the existing shaft. also decide if the repair should be from the front or back. Repair might not be my first choice.
When replacing a tapered pin on new parts I think it is typical to drill and ream a new taper pin hole thru the shaft and handle offset from the old hole.
Most of the work I do on the lathe involves turning the handles manually so I would suggest using the lathe as it is for awhile. Depending on where the handle was when it was broken you may be still able to use one of the power feed options.
Drain, flush and replace the head stock oil.

It’s in neutral now, so I can move the carriage under power using the half nuts if necessary, which will make a cleaner turn than using the rack-and-pinion carriage handle. But no powered cross slide until I make a repair, of course—the cross slide handle turns a lead screw, at least, so it should be easier to manually control.

Grizzly tells me that part is unavailable, as expected, but I had to ask. To get the correct part. I believe I’d have to find someone selling a whole apron. Removing that part seems to require a very complete tear-down just to get to it, and even then it’s fiddly.

My current theory is the interlock with the half-nut engagement lever didn’t release as expected and a prior user (not Uncle, but maybe one of his assistants) tried to force it with a pry bar. That part should have been made from steel.

Rick “who has watched a lot of YouTube apron tear-down videos ” Denney

 

[gard]

I would not be surprised to see internal parts from the apron come up for sale on ebay or some other site if you keep checking once in awhile and figgure out the best search terms, or like you say, a complete apron.
You can get pretty good at smoothly cranking those handles manually with some practice.
Good news that it is stuck on the 1/2 nut position now so you can cut threads with it, tough to do that by hand lol. With it set to the finest thread and a larger radius on the tool bit you probably get a decent finish

 

[SLK001]

Good news that it is stuck on the 1/2 nut position now so you can cut threads with it, tough to do that by hand lol. With it set to the finest thread and a larger radius on the tool bit you probably get a decent finish

That leaves the half-nut engaged all the time, which will wear them out - and no clutch. Yes, it can be done (and this is the method of feeding on some cheaper lathes), but it is not recommended.

 

[rwdenney]

Toys are arriving. I ended up purchasing the Shars CXA tool post kit, plus a few 3/4” holders for CNMG inserts. The only minor issue is that the boring bar that came with the lathe is a little too snug in the 3/4-1” adapter sleeve in the tool holder. That kit arrived too quickly; I’ll mount it after the move.

The old Do-All MT3 live center with pipe adapter arrived. Works fine, but I’ll want to replace the bearings at some point. It came with an MT4 adapter that I won’t need.

And I have cleaned the Rohm 3-jaw chuck. I find no wear in it at all and it was clean inside. It’s beautifully made—everything must fit just right and then it’s smooth as silk. The four-jaw is next, but that’s a bigger workout.

I found what appears to be a shop-made carriage stop plate, which makes me suspect someone had cranked down too hard on the original and broken it. I’ve bought an original replacement that I think will work, too.

Still to be sourced: cross feed idler gear cam (the broken part) if I can find one, the MT3 adapter sleeve for the spindle, and 4C collets (those I’ll acquire as needed). Oh, and a new belt!

Next weekend I’ll be back over at the lathe cleaning it as best I can and prepping it for the move.

Rick “planning a wood pallet similar to what South Bend pictured in old installation instructions” Denney

 

[SLK001]

Next weekend I’ll be back over at the lathe cleaning it as best I can and prepping it for the move.

How far do you have to go for the move? This lathe will be exceedingly top-heavy. On a small trailer, it will be so top-heavy that it could tip the trailer. You might want to consider breaking it down a little. The headstock will easily come off, as well as the tailstock. That's close to 200 pounds off the top. With additional effort, the bed can be removed from the motor housing and legs. I'll leave it to you to decide how much has to be removed to move the thing. If you remove the bed, set it down on wood blocks big enough to keep the gearbox and the carriage from having to support the weight. Remember, 90% of this lathe is CAST IRON and is thus very UNFORGIVING of excess forces. You already know just how hard it is to source parts. Don't make your move a tragic occurrence.