[How do I?] Square Hole ?

[RedOak]

I keep 6 3/8" turnbuckles with my welding clamps. Once you are tacked up square, you can tack weld them in opposing corners to push or pull the frame as needed while you weld it out. It helps stay on top of the welds pulling when they cool. Pick one side of the cube to stay clamped down to the table until everything is welded out, the turnbuckles could "lift" a corner. Measure the diagonals while you work and keep adjusting as needed.

Sounds like a great idea, Firstram. Can I bother you for a photo or a hyperlink? I'd really like to see what you're describing.

Does the photo [below] show what you're describing? If so, are you saying that you use (6) of them for a job like the one that we've been discussing? Regardless, I'd really like to see how you're rigging them up for a rack job like the one we're tasked with.

 

[Firstram]

Exactly that but galvanized or black, so much cheaper than stainless! A quick sketchup should make sense.



It is very important that the bottom is flat, square, and firmly clamped or tacked down. I usually call the bottom one of the large faces while I'm setting up regardless of the finished orientation. As far as flat and square, I'm a fan of winding sticks and tape measures and rarely use levels and squares on larger projects. When you are finished welding, grind the tacks to remove the turnbuckles.

Edit:
When I tack things up, I gap all of the material slightly and only tack one edge so the tacks act like a hinge. If the parts are tight, the first tack pulls the joint tighter making it difficult to pull back square. In the drawing above I would weld the inner and outer corners of the bottom rectangle with it tacked flat on the table. Then build the top rectangle while it's tacked to the bottom. Once it's cool, cut the tacks, keep it orientated and elevate it with the legs with a gap top and bottom. In this case only 4 turnbuckles would be needed unless extra pulling power is needed. Don't cut the project free from the table until every thing is welded out fully and cold. Weld the "bottom" before removing the turnbuckles.

The nice thing about this process is that you can sight all of the planes while you work. If it looks good, it is good!

 

[RedOak]

Exactly that but galvanized or black, so much cheaper than stainless! A quick sketchup should make sense.



It is very important that the bottom is flat, square, and firmly clamped or tacked down. I usually call the bottom one of the large faces while I'm setting up regardless of the finished orientation. As far as flat and square, I'm a fan of winding sticks and tape measures and rarely use levels and squares on larger projects. When you are finished welding, grind the tacks to remove the turnbuckles.

Edit:
When I tack things up, I gap all of the material slightly and only tack one edge so the tacks act like a hinge. If the parts are tight, the first tack pulls the joint tighter making it difficult to pull back square. In the drawing above I would weld the inner and outer corners of the bottom rectangle with it tacked flat on the table. Then build the top rectangle while it's tacked to the bottom. Once it's cool, cut the tacks, keep it orientated and elevate it with the legs with a gap top and bottom. In this case only 4 turnbuckles would be needed unless extra pulling power is needed. Don't cut the project free from the table until every thing is welded out fully and cold. Weld the "bottom" before removing the turnbuckles.

The nice thing about this process is that you can sight all of the planes while you work. If it looks good, it is good!

I'm still studying your words and your drawing, Firstram, but I really appreciate the help.

As you mentioned galvanized, I'm wondering if you're welding a piece of flat stock to the ends of the turnbuckles or not? I suppose it would be possible to strap the turnbuckles to the work, somehow, but I was taught to stay away from welding galvanized; hence, the question.

I'm assuming here, but my thought is that you're using regular steel turnbuckles, welding flat stock to the ends and tacking those flat stock ends to the work? I don't recall using turnbuckles like this before, but I assume that they can be either tightened or loosened to adjust the angles of work as you go.

Once again, thank you for the suggestion ~ Red

 

[Weldingrod1]

A thought: a shop that does cnc tube cutting (laser or plasma) could cut your square holes quickly and precisely.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Firstram]

Grind the zinc off the end or just dip the end in muriatic. I just weld the the ends of the turnbuckle to the work and spin the center to push or pull.

I forgot to mention, I always orient the right hand thread up. Righty tighty kind of thing without having to examine each one.

 

[RedOak]

A thought: a shop that does cnc tube cutting (laser or plasma) could cut your square holes quickly and precisely.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

WR ~ Sending the steel out has been discussed earlier in the thread, but I really appreciate the thought, regardless. Have a great Saturday.

 

[RedOak]

Firstram ~ Do you think that the turnbuckles would be useful in addition to the 3-axis welding clamp we ordered?

 

[Firstram]

Firstram ~ Do you think that the turnbuckles would be useful in addition to the 3-axis welding clamp we ordered?

Welding puts a lot of stress into a project that continuously tries to pull as the welds cool. I have found that I do need to make adjustments while welding out. Buy some extra steel and build a machine stand/cube. Good test and end up with something you need.
Just an example.

Do you own a stock feeder? Years ago I built a stand that a 4 wheeler lived on. You could push it up to any piece of equipment, tighten a couple bolts and you were ready to roll without having to lift it.

 

[RedOak]

Welding puts a lot of stress into a project that continuously tries to pull as the welds cool. I have found that I do need to make adjustments while welding out. Buy some extra steel and build a machine stand/cube. Good test and end up with something you need.
Just an example.

Do you own a stock feeder? Years ago I built a stand that a 4 wheeler lived on. You could push it up to any piece of equipment, tighten a couple bolts and you were ready to roll without having to lift it.

Yes, we own an older Powermatic unit that needs some work. Regardless, there are certain operations where you simply can't get the kind of repeatability you need without one. When you write "4-wheeler," Firstram, do you mean a UTV?

 

[Firstram]

No, I'm talking about a hateful 4 wheeled Delta stock feeder, way too big and heavy. I have a 3 wheeler and couldn't live without it. It's funny when people first see one chugging along at 26 FPM and comment how slow it is until they try to keep it fed. They are awesome for consistency.