Solid tool post for 1130v?

[ChazzC]

I think I'll go for the A36.

The casting would be nice, but the one James did is too small in all three dimensions. I might be able to reduce the length and width a bit, but height is an absolute requirement and ending up 5mm short would not be good.

My call to Garland (TX) Steel yielded a price of $130 for 1018 (~$5/lb). They used to have drops available, but I think their liability insurance put the kibosh on letting people pick thru them.

Metal Supermarkets has a location in Plano. Some of their locations have drops available, and if you call for pricing it seems to be consistently lower than what you get using their online quote system.

 

[WobblyHand]

Metal Supermarkets has a location in Plano. Some of their locations have drops available, and if you call for pricing it seems to be consistently lower than what you get using their online quote system.

That was the place in MA that had drops. The manager there told me that it is better to call the local store and ask for a price, (for cut pieces, ) than to do it online. I was also allowed to walk around, with the provision I get out of the way of any of the workers. Thought that was pretty nice.

 

[rronald]

That was the place in MA that had drops. The manager there told me that it is better to call the local store and ask for a price, (for cut pieces, ) than to do it online. I was also allowed to walk around, with the provision I get out of the way of any of the workers. Thought that was pretty nice.

I read (random Internet forums) that the Plano and Dallas Metal Supermarkets don't do drops. Fort Worth may, but that's a 100 mile trip for me. Next time around, I might give them a call.

 

[rronald]

One more question. I finally gave up on try to "wing it" on the the plinth design and captured everything in Fusion 360..

I ended up with two bolts extending up thru a "lip" on the plinth (on the end away from the operator). Easy to do and avoids messing with the cross-slide. But the other end (closest to the operator requires drilling and tapping of the cross slide. The picture below shows those two drilled and tapped holes on the bottom right.

My question is: is there a good reason why I can't do the drill and tap "in place" w/o removing the cross slide? It should be pretty straightforward. Drill ~14-15mm deep with an "H" drill (~6.76 mm) and then tap about 9-10 mm deep. I'll 3d print a stop to keep the drill from going too far since I need to stay < 19mm deep (as the ways are down there). I can center punch the holes using the plinth (which I will thru drill and counterbore on the mill).

If this is a terrible idea, what's the procedure for removing the moving part of the cross slide?

 

[Red96]

Edit: I misread the thread title as for a 1030V, instead of an 1130V.

 

[ttabbal]

I mount mine with the t-slots. My lathe doesn't have a circular section, it's just 2 slots. You could possibly use one nut in the circular slot and two in the slots. It's occasionally helpful to move it around.

I would remove the table before drilling. PM probably has removal in the manual. I would try to avoid drilling into it though. I just don't think it gains you anything in this application.

 

[rronald]

I mount mine with the t-slots. My lathe doesn't have a circular section, it's just 2 slots. You could possibly use one nut in the circular slot and two in the slots. It's occasionally helpful to move it around.

I would remove the table before drilling. PM probably has removal in the manual. I would try to avoid drilling into it though. I just don't think it gains you anything in this application.

I initially reacted by thinking a "real" machinist shouldn't be worried about drilling into his machines.

But, the more I think about it, the more I tend to agree with you. It appears that if I can be happy with three bolts, I can use the existing round slot to hold the rear bolt. Four bolts might be better, but the real estate on top of the plinth is a bit tight. And three bolts (8mm) should be capable of several tons of clamping force (weak point probably being the head that fits into the round T-slot).

Assuming the 3 bolts are sufficient, the only downside I see is that will leave me with a nut on top of the plinth - rather than a bolt head recessed into a counterbore. But I can try it that way to see if a bolt on top bugs me. If it does, I could make a round nut with a slot or prong holes to drive it, so that could be tightened down into a counterbore from the top.

 

[ttabbal]

Nothing wrong with drilling if you achieve something you can't otherwise do. And, of course, it's your machine.

You could counterbore the top for the nut. Or make mating threads in the middle of the stud. You couldn't see it as it would connect inside the block. Could also make a drop-in nut for the circular area. Set it in and tightening would rotate it into position to hold.

And there's no reason you can't make a top nut with an Allen key drive. Counter sink/bore and it would be sub surface. Lots of options.

 

[rronald]

The triple bolt hold-down approach is the best one. No mods required to the lathe beyond bolting down a different tool holder. Very solid.

I have attached two pics. The first shows the almost finished plinth in silver. I then sanded out tool marks and removed a chunk at both front corners to avoid injury of my delicate parts.

The 2nd pic shows it fully completed and blue'ed. I would have just shown the 2nd picture...but the blueing looks terrible in the picture (it's not nearly as bad in real life).

It's easy to align the plinth and the holder using a 1/2/3 block. I've included holes for an L-bracket on top to force the tool-holder to square, but I am dubious that it's necessary.