Restoration of BMW R69s engine

[C-Bag]

Now it all makes sense. Some of these tools are probably not so easy to find anymore. Looks great.


Mal

I’m not sure which tools you’re talking about but Neway is still around and the Hazet piston ring pliers are still being made. They are on eBay. Both were pricey when I bought them in the ‘70’s and are not cheap now. I think I got both of them from an independent tool guy who used to hit the import shops I used to work in.

A couple of months ago a portable line boring machine like I used back in the day showed up on the local CL. VW and Porsche engine main bearings over time would beat into the case and the bearing would not seat properly. So you had to line bore the case. They sold over/under size mains. I would think that is something you’d have to watch out for on the boxer Beemers too.

 

[malmac]

I’m not sure which tools you’re talking about but Neway is still around and the Hazet piston ring pliers are still being made. They are on eBay. Both were pricey when I bought them in the ‘70’s and are not cheap now. I think I got both of them from an independent tool guy who used to hit the import shops I used to work in.

A couple of months ago a portable line boring machine like I used back in the day showed up on the local CL. VW and Porsche engine main bearings over time would beat into the case and the bearing would not seat properly. So you had to line bore the case. They sold over/under size mains. I would think that is something you’d have to watch out for on the boxer Beemers too.

The old bikes I have, both run roller bearings for the main bearing and bearing carriers that can be replaced. Though what you say could still be a problem under some circumstances. Never say never.
I havent got to rebuilding the heads yet so I may need some valve seat cutters somewhere down the track.
I am glad you showed me yours, I will know what to look for.

Mal

 

[C-Bag]

The old bikes I have, both run roller bearings for the main bearing and bearing carriers that can be replaced. Though what you say could still be a problem under some circumstances. Never say never.
I havent got to rebuilding the heads yet so I may need some valve seat cutters somewhere down the track.
I am glad you showed me yours, I will know what to look for.

Mal

I never rebuilt any bikes so I’d forgotten they used roller bearings and that’s why you pressed the cranks apart. I think the only time either VW’s or Porsch’s need to be line bored was because somebody was over revving them. Or maybe were out of balance. I only had one of the 7 VW’s that I ran till I went back through it. My last was a ‘66 bug w/factory sunroof. The ‘66 was the only year of the 1300 and it was a one owner when I got it. It had 120,000mi on it and the woman didn’t trust anybody to rebuild it and my dad got it from her for $700. I went through it and it didn’t need line bore, put 120,000mi on it. Even though it was running good w/good compression not using oil I got scared as you never drove a 1500 or 1600 more than 50,000mi without a valve job because they would drop a valve. That 1300 was still all good inside. The case looked like when I first went through it. It’s all about the nut behind the wheel.

 

[C-Bag]

The old bikes I have, both run roller bearings for the main bearing and bearing carriers that can be replaced. Though what you say could still be a problem under some circumstances. Never say never.
I havent got to rebuilding the heads yet so I may need some valve seat cutters somewhere down the track.
I am glad you showed me yours, I will know what to look for.

Mal

So have you been able to find any experienced boxer engine mech‘s Mal? Like what are common problems? All engines and makers have different problems or common procedures. Like on a VW you always tossed the exhaust valves and replaced the exhaust guides. Same for the cam and followers. Also how is it to get engine parts. Didn’t you mention you got a different crank. How hard was that and to get rings and gaskets etc? Do they toss the exhaust valves and guides? The main reason I sold my last bug was I couldn’t get German parts anymore and at that time Brazil was where all the air cooled parts were being made. I saw first hand like their cranks were cast, not forged like the originals and were junk. My old 1300 crank with 250,000mi was within .0003 of original max. I took a part a 67 for my dad and it was all Brazilian except for the case and only had like 50,000mi and literally had to throw everything but the heads and case away because they were worn out. Never saw that with German OEM.

 

[DavidR8]

I never rebuilt any bikes so I’d forgotten they used roller bearings and that’s why you pressed the cranks apart. I think the only time either VW’s or Porsch’s need to be line bored was because somebody was over revving them. Or maybe were out of balance. I only had one of the 7 VW’s that I ran till I went back through it. My last was a ‘66 bug w/factory sunroof. The ‘66 was the only year of the 1300 and it was a one owner when I got it. It had 120,000mi on it and the woman didn’t trust anybody to rebuild it and my dad got it from her for $700. I went through it and it didn’t need line bore, put 120,000mi on it. Even though it was running good w/good compression not using oil I got scared as you never drove a 1500 or 1600 more than 50,000mi without a valve job because they would drop a valve. That 1300 was still all good inside. The case looked like when I first went through it. It’s all about the nut behind the wheel.

If I recall correctly the #3 cylinder ran hotter (and dropped valves) because the oil cooler wasn't offset in the cooling shroud so restricted airflow to the the #3. The 1600's had the so called 'doghouse' shroud where the oil cooler was out of the main line of airflow. It's been years since I had my last VW...
(sorry to drop into your thread @malmac!)

 

[C-Bag]

If I recall correctly the #3 cylinder ran hotter (and dropped valves) because the oil cooler wasn't offset in the cooling shroud so restricted airflow to the the #3. The 1600's had the so called 'doghouse' shroud where the oil cooler was out of the main line of airflow. It's been years since I had my last VW...
(sorry to drop into your thread @malmac!)

But the 1100, 1200, and 1300 all had the old style cooler and as long as you kept the oil and valves adjusted they didn’t drop valves. With the 1500 in ‘67 and 1600 in ‘68/70 besides the larger engine with the same old oil cooler they added smog controls and jetted the carb leaner to pass CA smog. ‘71 came the doghouse cooler and while better it was still prone to dropping a valve because it was jetted even leaner. Probably not as bad up where you are but down here especially in the San Joaquin Valley where you have 100+deg summers it was death. You started feeling like you were sitting on a bomb if you had over 50k, just like the old timing belts.

i too am sorry Mal for derailing but this kinda demonstrates what I was wondering about. Did certain models have defects or were they bulletproof and the factory decided to “improve” them and they got problems?

 

[malmac]

If I recall correctly the #3 cylinder ran hotter (and dropped valves) because the oil cooler wasn't offset in the cooling shroud so restricted airflow to the the #3. The 1600's had the so called 'doghouse' shroud where the oil cooler was out of the main line of airflow. It's been years since I had my last VW...
(sorry to drop into your thread @malmac!)

I think it's great to hear this background.... I had a 1963 VW Bug, I did a big end on it....... I bought my brother in laws write off Bug from a front end crash. Then I pulled the engine and rebuilt one good engine out of the two worn engines. I had not thought about that job for decades. You have brought back fond memories. Thanks guys.

Mal

 

[malmac]

But the 1100, 1200, and 1300 all had the old style cooler and as long as you kept the oil and valves adjusted they didn’t drop valves. With the 1500 in ‘67 and 1600 in ‘68/70 besides the larger engine with the same old oil cooler they added smog controls and jetted the carb leaner to pass CA smog. ‘71 came the doghouse cooler and while better it was still prone to dropping a valve because it was jetted even leaner. Probably not as bad up where you are but down here especially in the San Joaquin Valley where you have 100+deg summers it was death. You started feeling like you were sitting on a bomb if you had over 50k, just like the old timing belts.

i too am sorry Mal for derailing but this kinda demonstrates what I was wondering about. Did certain models have defects or were they bulletproof and the factory decided to “improve” them and they got problems?

You guys are right into Bugs - I had one but I have always been a bike person but things change to some extent. The last couple of days I have had to work on fixing the brakes and bearings on our Toyota Landcruiser. Re machine the rear discs, fit new bearings and seals and replace the handbrake brake shoes. So cars do get a look in.

Mal

 

[malmac]

Got the brakes and bearing finished yesterday and this morning we head off on a field trip for three or four weeks. I won't have much internet in the remote areas, so please accept my apologies for any delays in responding to contributions to this thread.
Unfortunately while away, I obviously won't get any work done on my restoration project.

Cheers Mal

 

[malmac]

Back in the workshop after a couple of weeks away. Just got started and the return spring on the milling machine gave up the ghost.
So had to fix that before work could go on. Here a few pics of the repair job. These interruptions are the reality.

Mal