QCTP too tall

[RJSakowski]

I have the G0602 and had the same problem. I found that the Shars tool holder have a slightly lower floor than the others I have. The Shars 250-101 will work with 12mm shank insert tools. The XL holders will just barely work with 1/2" shank tooling.

For most of my lathe work, I use either HSS or brazed carbide in 3/8". I do so because both can be resharpened whereas, when the edge goes on an insert, it pretty well is toast. I also use 1/4" or even 1/8" HSS tool bits, largely because they have less material and are easier to grind.

For a 10x22 lathe, 3/8" tooling isn't the weak link regarding rigidity. 1/2" tooling will add little. The main reason for using it that I see is because 1/2" (or 12 mm shank tooling is more readily available.

 

[CJ5Dave]

Before I had a milling machine and needed lathe parts modified, everybody said "you can fix that on your mill". Not I have a mill. If you have access to one you can mill a little off the bottom of the toolpost. Otherwise you might clamp it in a bandsaw and slice a little off it. Does not have to be precise, just lower. I had the opposite problem and have a 3/8 plate under my BXA toolpost to make it tall enough. Or you could grind that amount off. Just needs to be evenly removed so it will be rigid.

 

[chris.epp]

I have the G0602 and had the same problem. I found that the Shars tool holder have a slightly lower floor than the others I have. The Shars 250-101 will work with 12mm shank insert tools. The XL holders will just barely work with 1/2" shank tooling.

For most of my lathe work, I use either HSS or brazed carbide in 3/8". I do so because both can be resharpened whereas, when the edge goes on an insert, it pretty well is toast. I also use 1/4" or even 1/8" HSS tool bits, largely because they have less material and are easier to grind.

For a 10x22 lathe, 3/8" tooling isn't the weak link regarding rigidity. 1/2" tooling will add little. The main reason for using it that I see is because 1/2" (or 12 mm shank tooling is more readily available.

Looking around I see other 250-101 with slightly different dimensions that would work with 1/2. Learning lots here. I know this is not ideal but first thing I need to make is out of 12mm stainless less steel. I have some 12mm stainless steel rod that is for linear guides. They don't say specific steel but bearing steel. I'm sure it must have been hardened. Is that realistic to turn on a lathe like this or do I need other steel? I'm sure I should really get some brass or something to do some practicing on first... it's a lot of left thread and some machining. I know, ridiculous first item to make but it's a volunteer thing to help out a project.

 

[chris.epp]

This is what my first project is... going to need some luck doing this in stainless with zero experience. Sounds like 416 is my best bet, but this may be asking too much of me as a rookie. I can just imagine the chuckles, eye rolls ans head shakes coming from these posts... enjoy.

 

[piper184]

I would certainly practice making that part in mild steel before putting the more expensive stainless steel in the lathe.

If you don't have any scrap steel to practice on, most home improvement and local hardware stores will have mild steel cold rolled stuff in 3' lengths. Buying that way is not the most economical for the steel being purchased, but unless you have a local steel supplier that will sell cut off pieces (called drops) at a reasonable price, the hardware stuff is likely much better than ordering online when shipping is involved.

Another good source for a few one off practice pieces would be to just by some bolts that are slightly larger than your project. Put it in the 3 jaw and put a center in the head. Back it out and use tail support and start making chips!

Then learn to single point right hand threads, then graduate to left hand. Once there, you can start playing with stainless steel and carbide cutters.

As for the tool holder. I would get some 3/8" tools to start with. They are not too hard to find and for your lathe they will be plenty rigid enough. There were a lot of parts made on 9 and 10 inch lathes with nothing more than a 1/4" HSS tool in an Armstrong type lantern tool post.

Your comments suggest you have a good thought process, now get out to the shop and start making chips, mistakes and all!

Have some fun.

 

[WobblyHand]

I basically use 3/8" tooling in AXA on my G0752Z/G0602 lathe. It works fine. I have occasionally had a machine a tool holder. You can use a mill if you have one, or simply chuck the part in a four jaw chuck and machine it that way. I've done it both ways and either works great. My lathe had a shorter distance from the top of the compound to centerline than @RJSakowski had, by about 0.050". So I had to machine off 0.050" for some tooling to reach centerline.

 

[RJSakowski]

You should be aware that unless your lathe has a reversing banjo, you can't cut left hand threads. The G0602 doesn't have that feature nor does the King 10x22. I built one for my lathe and have since added an electronic lead screw which has a reversing drive for the lead screw. However, both of these solutions require skills beyond a beginner level and access to a milling machine.

 

[mickri]

Read Mikey's thread on grinding HSS tool bits. The basic are on page 11. Get your self a belt grinder to grind tool bits. With a belt grinder you can easily grind any shape tool bit your heart desires.

 

[Ischgl99]

Looking around I see other 250-101 with slightly different dimensions that would work with 1/2. Learning lots here. I know this is not ideal but first thing I need to make is out of 12mm stainless less steel. I have some 12mm stainless steel rod that is for linear guides. They don't say specific steel but bearing steel. I'm sure it must have been hardened. Is that realistic to turn on a lathe like this or do I need other steel? I'm sure I should really get some brass or something to do some practicing on first... it's a lot of left thread and some machining. I know, ridiculous first item to make but it's a volunteer thing to help out a project.

Stainless bearing steel is usually 440C, if it’s annealed, you might be able to turn it with your lathe, if hardened, not a chance. Take a file and see if it cuts it or skims across the surface. If it cuts it, then you might be able to turn it.

 

[Larry$]

unless your lathe has a reversing banjo, you can't cut left hand threads.

I'm learning about small lathes by reading this thread. It never occurred to me that they would lack that reversing feature. I've made left hand threads by accident by selecting the wrong gear lever. Did that when I was first learning to thread. As has been suggested, get some cheap material to practice on. I've got a variety of tooling and for many things I still prefer HSS. my tool holders accept 5/8/ 16mm tooling and 3/4 /19mm with XL holders. But I don't use the biggest HSS I can get into them because it takes too much grinding compared to 3/8". Easy to make any shape I want. Easy to sharpen, cheap!
My first experience with an unknown stainless was a disaster. I didn't go after it aggressively enough and work hardened it.