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Optimum MH 50V mods and accessories
- Thread starter Unlogic
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2014
- Messages
- 5,128
Any major brand gear oil that is an ISO 100 will work, Mobilgear 627 specifications are in the link below. In the US it is also the same viscosity as motor oil SAE30 and gear oil SAE85. You do not want to use vehicle oils, you would need to look for a high performance gear oil or synthetic gear oil, and one that does not have what is called extreme pressure (EP) additives which sometimes can damage yellow metals. The newer EP additives only become active at higher temperatures, like 100C. But it varies, I used Amsoil Marine Gear Synthetic Lube 75W90 and it specifically says it is compatible with aluminum, copper and brass metals. I also spoke to them at the time about compatibility with yellow metals. Marine drives are subject to very high gear speeds, loading, oil foaming and water contamination, probably far worse then in a gear head mill. Gear head drives usually have some form of venting to allow for oil expansion as it heats up, the thermal cycling and high humidity pulls moisture into the gearbox, so water contamination occurs over time.
Hard to say what is available in your country.
www.amsoil.com
Hard to say what is available in your country.
AMSOIL Synthetic Marine Gear Lube 75W-90
Shop AMSOIL Synthetic Marine Gear Lube 75W-90 at AMSOIL. Find premium synthetic oil, filters and more online. Fast, free shipping available.
www.amsoil.com
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2014
- Messages
- 5,128
The Omicron 490 ISO VG 100 oil seems to be more of an automobile gearbox oil and contains EP additives. I would check with the company if it can be used with yellow metals. The oil below indicates it can be used where EP additives should not be used. You might check with their technical department. The site is in Swedish so I was limited to what I could see.
OMEGA 612 Universal Lubricant & Hydraulic oil
High-tech machine & hydraulic oil. Water resistant, zero foaming, with great heat and pressure resistance. At the same time gentle on gaskets and sensitive metals. Perfect in transmissions where EP oil is not recommended. Can be advantageously used in hydraulics with higher speeds than 1800 rpm or pressures exceeding 250 bar. Maximum flexibility.
www.kullagret.com
OMEGA 612 Universal Lubricant & Hydraulic oil
High-tech machine & hydraulic oil. Water resistant, zero foaming, with great heat and pressure resistance. At the same time gentle on gaskets and sensitive metals. Perfect in transmissions where EP oil is not recommended. Can be advantageously used in hydraulics with higher speeds than 1800 rpm or pressures exceeding 250 bar. Maximum flexibility.
Omega 612 SAE 30 Hydraul- och Maskinolja 1L
SAE 30 (ISO VG 100) | Vattenresistent, nollskummande, med stor värme- o trycktålighet.
I got the oil for mill and changed it today.
I've had oil drips run down the outside of the machine a few times and newer figured out where it was coming from. But when I removed the fill plug I realized that it was the culprit. The was no copper washer on the filler plug and the breather hole led nowhere so any oil pushed out with the air just accumulated on the top of the machine...
To fix this I plugged the normal breather hole with a set screw, added a copper washer and then installed a hose barb on the top of the bolt.
I then added a small hose so that the oil will have a chance to separate from the air and run back into the machine.
I figured that draining the oil with an oil plug on the side of the machine would create a mess so I opted to drain the majority of the oil through the fill plug using this little contraption.
It worked very well and when I removed the drain plug there only a very small quantity of oil left which I drained using a small aluminum pipe taped to the side of the machine.
The magnet on the drain plug didn't look too bad given this is a new machine that has never had an oil change before. However the hole for the drain plug left a bit to be desired.
The mating surface around the plug seem to not be machined and the copper washer pushes against a painted surface. Also the hole isn't dripped/tapped straight so the copper washer ends up getting compressed on one side but not the other. That explains all the teflon tape on the plug from the factory...
The machine is noticeably quieter with the new oil which is nice.
I overfilled the oil to the top of the sight glass to see if it would reduce the amount of air that gets trapped in the oil during high speed operations. But I still get quite a bit of air in the oil after just a minute or so of operation. Maybe I should try to increase the oil level even further.
I've had oil drips run down the outside of the machine a few times and newer figured out where it was coming from. But when I removed the fill plug I realized that it was the culprit. The was no copper washer on the filler plug and the breather hole led nowhere so any oil pushed out with the air just accumulated on the top of the machine...
To fix this I plugged the normal breather hole with a set screw, added a copper washer and then installed a hose barb on the top of the bolt.
I then added a small hose so that the oil will have a chance to separate from the air and run back into the machine.
I figured that draining the oil with an oil plug on the side of the machine would create a mess so I opted to drain the majority of the oil through the fill plug using this little contraption.
It worked very well and when I removed the drain plug there only a very small quantity of oil left which I drained using a small aluminum pipe taped to the side of the machine.
The magnet on the drain plug didn't look too bad given this is a new machine that has never had an oil change before. However the hole for the drain plug left a bit to be desired.
The mating surface around the plug seem to not be machined and the copper washer pushes against a painted surface. Also the hole isn't dripped/tapped straight so the copper washer ends up getting compressed on one side but not the other. That explains all the teflon tape on the plug from the factory...
The machine is noticeably quieter with the new oil which is nice.
I overfilled the oil to the top of the sight glass to see if it would reduce the amount of air that gets trapped in the oil during high speed operations. But I still get quite a bit of air in the oil after just a minute or so of operation. Maybe I should try to increase the oil level even further.
I didn't do the conversion myself, I bought it this way. I was in the process of planning everything for a conversion and found this one. Since this machine was almost exactly as I would have done the conversion (with my knowledge at the time) i bought it.
The owner before me couldn't get it to work, so I got lucky
But if you plan on doing it and you need anything I'm happy to help.
Nice work with the plug. I just screwed a pneumatic hose into the breather hole and put it in a water bottle :-D
I filled mine to the top of the white housing where the top plate is mounted and I did get bubbles to, but not as much as before.
About 250ml of oil overflowed when i let the machine run for about 3h but now there is no oil comming from the top plug.
If you want I can check my oil level now, so you know how much you can fill in.
I filled mine to the top of the white housing where the top plate is mounted and I did get bubbles to, but not as much as before.
About 250ml of oil overflowed when i let the machine run for about 3h but now there is no oil comming from the top plug.
If you want I can check my oil level now, so you know how much you can fill in.
I'm actually planing to CNC convert my machine as soon as possible. I'm going to use LinuxCNC but there is currently a shortage of FPGA chips so the Mesa 7I76D board I was planing to buy is out of stock and I'm waiting for them or some equivalent board to become available again. In the meantime I'm cranking out the parts by hand.I didn't do the conversion myself, I bought it this way. I was in the process of planning everything for a conversion and found this one. Since this machine was almost exactly as I would have done the conversion (with my knowledge at the time) i bought it.
The owner before me couldn't get it to work, so I got lucky
But if you plan on doing it and you need anything I'm happy to help.
If you have any close ups on how the ball screw nut for the X-axis is mounted and how the servos or steppers are attached then that would be much appreciated as I'm currently looking for some inspiration https://emojipedia.org/slightly-smiling-face/
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