1440GT Upgrades and Additions

Part three, Tailstock DRO:​


I did a lot of looking at the designs of others before I decided on how to mount a DRO on the tailstock. There's s a lot of really good designs out there!

I decided that I wanted to be able to remove the DRO so I zeroed in on the magnetic mount ideas.

I also wanted to use a sliding scale type unit and settled on a Mitutoyo. One thing that concerned me about the designs I've seen incorporating this type of unit is having the scale sticking out on the right side of the read head and susceptible to being hit by a dropped object or smacked by an errant move.

I made the part that goes on the ram while I was waiting for the shipment of the DRO:

IMG_0211.jpeg




IMG_0213.jpeg


Once I got the DRO in hand I could take measurements and start with the mounting unit:
IMG_0259.jpeg


IMG_0261.jpeg




The unit mounts to a bar that sits in the groove of the main block above:
IMG_0266.jpeg



Before I epoxied the magnets in:
IMG_0265.jpeg



Test fitting:
IMG_0269.jpeg


Magnets:
IMG_0280.jpeg


The finished product:
IMG_0282.jpeg


IMG_0278.jpeg


IMG_0277.jpeg


IMG_0275.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Sharp edged castings are kind of ugly to me but they sure are easier to modify than the pretty curved surfaces on my old machines. Nice!. Dave
 
Bwahahaha!!
Ah yes, The Scrimpers Organization. I should have known! I do believe I am a member of said organization but may have misplaced my membership card.
 
Nice job on the tailstock DRO. Looks like the RF-45 is serving your milling needs just fine.
 
Thought I would add a few comments about Jake's 1440GT VFD/System install, we went with Yaskawa's new GA series VFDs which come in a GA500 which is a basic display or the GA800 with a full LCD display. The model chosen was their single phase input GA50UB012ABA which can output up to 12A in ND and 11A in HD (150% output for up to 1 minute). I have been using the Yaskawa GA500 in a number of my recent builds, they have a few more features than the Hitachi WJ200, and the software interface is much better. They are significantly larger than the WJ200, so that must be factored into the unit's mounting. I have attached a parameter file for this build/motor, a few things that differ from the WJ200 is the JOG FOR/REV are separate inputs and there is a separate programmed emergency stop input. The control system differs a bit from my previous designs for this particular VFD, I still use a multiple relay design because of reliability, lack of electrical interference issues and cost. Typically there are 3 levels of redundancy in the system, so some functions like JOG can only per operated in the stop mode. The coolant circuit operates either with just spindle rotation or continuous, and in this build has the option for 240VAC single phase and/or 24VDC for a solenoid(s). The proximity sensor's I use are triple sensing and are made to be flush mounted. They have a lifetime warranty, but if they failed the system stops and there is a separate limit switch in addition to the hard micrometer stop. The repeatability of the stopping position is usually less than 0.001" and allows threading up to around 600 RPM depending on the thread pitch.

The Marathon BlackMax Y541A was definitely a tight fit, they hold very tight RPM regulation over a wider speed range with sensorless vector control. Normally I would recommend the Marathon 3HP E470 XRI motor, which is a bit shorter it is just in this case the Y5451A was less expensive (and the "A" model just fit). Most 3HP 3 phase 4 pole motors run in the 8-9A range. The inverter/vector motors tend to run with a bit less current then standard motors, and vector must be run off of a VFD. The E470 is an excellent replacement motor for the 1440GT, BUT either of these motors requires a new motor horizontal motor mount and some metal cutting for clearance. Since the cabinets are very rigid, a simpler approach for the belt tension is the single turn buckle under the motor to the headstock cabinet that Jake made. Looks mighty substantial.

On the 1440GT I typically put the speed control in the RPM housing and use a MilSpec. 3 turn 5K linear pot which gives very fine speed control, the pots are wire-wound and rated for millions of turns. In years past I offered a RPM/SFM option, but the MachTach is no longer made and I find very few people use the SFM calculator. There is the Tachulator, but seems like the only US distributor has suspended sales.

Nice install on the tailstock DRO, very clean approach.

Testing the control board
1440GT Yaskawa VFD Control System.jpg


A Marathon E470 motor install with AX29 belts, the Y541A install of Jake's used AX30 belts.
Marathon E470 motor install on a 1440GT.jpg
 

Attachments

Good write up, Mark. I believe the Tachulator is still available from the little machine Shop. The Tachulator website has not shown any for sale for the past year so maybe when these are gone it is forever. As I said earlier I use the sfm function but the downside with the tachulator is you have to turn a knob rather than keypad in a diameter. It isn't a fast deal with a 4" piece of stock.

Converting a gear head lathe vs buying a two speed model with a vfd installed seems like it may have advantages depending on the gearing that maybe Mark can discuss. I'm thinking I may go the vfd route on my big monarch rather than put the old stuff back in the machine. I believe I only needs to run a motor from 40-60 hz to access all speeds from 30-1100 which is the top end on the 16x54 model 60/61. Dave
 
The discussion of a 2 speed lathe with factory VFD vs. a standard gear head and an add on VFD has come up several times, and most recently with individuals buying the ERL/RML/TRL series of lathes. I have assisted and also built systems for people buying the standard gear head's and the factory installed systems were quite a bit more expensive and didn't offer all the features. In particular for individuals doing what I call the basic install which is far less. The 1340/1440GT is not offered in a VFD version, and would be too expensive with limited market share.

I recently worked with two individuals that bought the Acra 1440C (ERL 1440), the one below I built his system, and another individual bought the factory VFD installed system for the same lathe. Since on a 2 speed lathe with a factory VFD you need to cover ~40-500 and 450-2500, you are stretching the capabilities (and Hp) of the motor. They both come with a 5 Hp motor, the gear head has 8 speeds. When it comes down to using a VFD lathe most of the speed range is covered with the VFD, I usually run them from 20-100 Hz and vector motors even higher if I can belt down the motor. Other option that I have been considering is to use a 6 pole vector motor where the pulley ratio cannot be changed. Either way ther is minimal gear changes. a 6 pole motor is the next motor frame size so the motor need to be mounted in the base (ERL/RML/TRL).
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/new-acra-1440c-lathe-with-mark-jacobs-vfd.95333/

On a bigger lathe (more than 5 Hp) and lower speed gear head, the costs of the VFD install can go up significantly, although inverter/vector motors in the 7.5-10 Hp range can often be purchased on eBay for very little. I have also worked with 10EE owners, the last put a 10Hp vector motor in and used it as a single speed with not power limitations.
 
The 10EE is somewhat problematic in that the backgear is attached to the motor and often removed, requiring the motor to handle a range of 0-3000+ rpm. The big monarch lathes have 16 speeds but while there are lots of speeds on the low end, only a few are over 500 rpm. Given all the low end choices, I don't think the motors generally need to be replaced. I have lots of old motors on VFDs and if you don't get greedy and keep them above 30 hz and below 70 hz, they seem to handle that variation. My Monarch 60/61 uses the same bearings for all spindles up to 1200 rpm although most machines were shipped with a 700 rpm max. If i swap the pulley from 5.125 to 7.35 as monarch did, the speed at 40 hz would read equal to the plate on the machine ( 700 max ) but give a top end of 1000+ at 60 hz. I'm hopeful the old motor will handle that and give variable speed from 500-1000 which is now served by only two speeds.

The 1024 you did for me is similar except for the motor swap. The original machine had 12 speeds from 36-2500 but only two were over 850 rpm. Your conversion transformed the lathe. Dave
 
Back
Top