New To Me 11" Logan 920

[extropic]

Powder coating would be gold standard for toughness - if a bit expensive.
No touch up of course - but probably none needed!
Thanks for throwing out a few bones.
Good to have some options to ponder for my morning.

There will be considerable surface prep effort for DIY. My thinking was to minimize your labor input to the non-educational experience. I suspect you already know how to paint.
Find a powder coater who does surface prep in-house and Bob's your Uncle. Off to the next challenge. I could be way off on my estimation of the cost of the job. It would be interesting to get a real price.

Speaking of the cost of services . . . I stopped at a place to see what it would cost to service the AC on my truck. Starts at $320, plus parts/refridgerent and plus fixing anything they find. No openings for an appointment until August. Ain't it grand?

 

[Charlieman22]

Speaking of the cost of services . . . I stopped at a place to see what it would cost to service the AC on my truck. Starts at $320, plus parts/refridgerent and plus fixing anything they find. No openings for an appointment until August. Ain't it grand?

Something tells me you looked at the guy, looked at your truck, walked over and rolled down the window.
Thanks anyway! Its all fixed!

Would like to get on with some actual machining - of course.
But having put in all this time cleaning - I want to get some form of upgrade to the finish.
Then I can go to school on using it.

 

[682bear]

I get it - and you are in good company on that one.
The appeal of the hammer finish is a few fold:
- I can put it on with a brush
- I can touch it up easily if (when) it chips
- It hides a lot of underlying ills without much prep

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ What can I say - I kinda imagined a classic Vespa colored lathe in the garage.
That said - I may need to just get over it and use what rustoleum offers.
There is a gray and a silver - and one of them is a likely candidate.
Perhaps I will tape off and do a couple test patches tomorrow to see what I think.

Powder coating would be gold standard for toughness - if a bit expensive.
No touch up of course - but probably none needed!
Thanks for throwing out a few bones.
Good to have some options to ponder for my morning.

I've also read others talk about the tractor paint.
Looks like I can get it online.
Would likely still require a bit more prep work than hammer finish - but with nice tough results.

BTW - Bear - if you are reading this - I'll get to my cross slides tomorrow and send you a message.
May be in your neck of the woods on Monday next week.

A word of warning about the Rustoleum 'Smoke Gray'... it does not look like the online swatch... it is much lighter.

I used it on my first Hendey lathe refurbish...



I've grown to like it, but it isn't what I originally wanted...

You are coming to Georgia? What part? I'm about 45 miles west of Atlanta...

-Bear

 

[Charlieman22]

Bear - that machine is a wow. Very nice. Shop looks terrific as well.
Nice touch on the two tone handles as well.
I'll shoot you a message directly on the parts/Atl.

 

[Charlieman22]

Managed to get some work done - and made a bit deeper dive.
Title of this thread should probably change to Logan 920 Resto Project....
We are there.

I have a connection through my Vespa world with a media blaster.
I plan to bring some parts over to discuss.
These guys are aviation guys - and they are powder coat specialists as well.
So perhaps we will learn something on that front.

Looking for a bit of advice/feedback on below.
Couldn't remove the gib - and thus the slide itself.
All three grub screws are taken out from the side - but the gib doesn't want to slide out.
Any advice on how to remove without damaging?


Missing one of these little chevron shaped sweeps. Perhaps Bear has one in his collection of bits...


Once a belt is pined like this - do I have to destroy the pin to remove? is it replaceable? How do I open up this belt or do I leave it alone? Also - looks like its seen a weld repair. Weld is a reasonable quality - so I plan to leave alone.

 

[extropic]

There is a pin that keeps the gib from sliding. See the manual parts exploded view.

My original advice was defective regarding sliding the gib out.

What prevents you from turning the handwheel until the leadscrew is disengaged from the nut?

Grind the head off one side of the pin to remove it. You can us a cotter pin or make a trick piece once you get your lathe running.
Many folks replace those flat belts with an automotive serpentine belt. quieter, grippier and long wearing. You'll have to remove the spindle to accomplish the repacement. Or not.

 

[682bear]

The handwheel can't be turned to disengage the nut because the nut will hit the inside of the casting first... the only way to disassemble the compound is to remove the handwheel, then remove the rotating half of the dial... then a pin spanner is needed to unscrew the fixed half of the dial from the upper casting. After it is unscrewed, the lead screw can be unscrewed from the nut. At that point, the nut can be tapped into the cavity in the casting... then just slide the 2 halves apart...

Simple, huh?

The pin in the flat belt should just slide out to one side, seperating the belt. Sometimes they are fairly tight...

I don't know if my lathe had those way wipers... I'll look and see.

-Bear

 

[Charlieman22]

Alright.
Good stuff from both of you.
Thanks.

There is a pin that keeps the gib from sliding. See the manual parts exploded view.

I had looked at the diagram, but was convinced my version didnt have the pin on the side that interferes with the gib.
But if you look - really (really) closely - you can see that it is there acting like some sort of chameleon with the rust and chipped paint.
(See below).

The handwheel can't be turned to disengage the nut because the nut will hit the inside of the casting first... the only way to disassemble the compound is to remove the handwheel, then remove the rotating half of the dial... then a pin spanner is needed to unscrew the fixed half of the dial from the upper casting. After it is unscrewed, the lead screw can be unscrewed from the nut. At that point, the nut can be tapped into the cavity in the casting... then just slide the 2 halves apart...

Yeah - simple - like calculous.
Ok - success - with only non-stitches required cut on palm of hand.
I'll call that a win.

Disassembly showed what my issue was.
The front gib screw had been run in all the way - while the gib was not supported by the ways.
Bent the gib.

If anyone has good method for gib straitening...

Belt came right apart. It had looked like the pin was peened at both ends - but on closer inspection - it was just... rust.
Thanks!

(what did we do before the internet?)

 

[Charlieman22]

Quick update & tonights question(s).

Extropic - I asked the powder coater - just for our own edification.
He laughed.
"People bring me engine blocks all the time and ask me to powder coat. Can I do it? Sure, but it will take 8 hours to get it up to temperature in my oven - during which there is no room for other stuff. I just say no." So there we have it.

That said - these guys do good work - I have had them do aluminum before and even there they have been careful.
He gave me what I thought was a great price - $125 to media blast the legs, bed, cover, motor holding assembly, tail stock, table tray and peg.
Basically everything - except gear box, head stock, and cross slide.
They know about machined surfaces and prep by using cardboard taped on.
Should save me about 3 days of endless stripping.
Sold.

Tonight's question(s)
1. Can anyone advise how I get the screw out of the cross slide. See pic
2. Do acid dip baths - like for automotive blocks - destroy brass? Yes - that is a hail-marry-can-I-have-my-gearbox-dipped-without-taking-it-appart. I pretty well know the answer - but thought I would fire it out in there in hopes of either: A. miracle, or B. a better idea.

 

[extropic]

Quick update & tonights question(s).

Extropic - I asked the powder coater - just for our own edification.
He laughed.
"People bring me engine blocks all the time and ask me to powder coat. Can I do it? Sure, but it will take 8 hours to get it up to temperature in my oven - during which there is no room for other stuff. I just say no." So there we have it.

That said - these guys do good work - I have had them do aluminum before and even there they have been careful.
He gave me what I thought was a great price - $125 to media blast the legs, bed, cover, motor holding assembly, tail stock, table tray and peg.
Basically everything - except gear box, head stock, and cross slide.
They know about machined surfaces and prep by using cardboard taped on.
Should save me about 3 days of endless stripping.
Sold.

Tonight's question(s)
1. Can anyone advise how I get the screw out of the cross slide. See pic
2. Do acid dip baths - like for automotive blocks - destroy brass? Yes - that is a hail-marry-can-I-have-my-gearbox-dipped-without-taking-it-appart. I pretty well know the answer - but thought I would fire it out in there in hopes of either: A. miracle, or B. a better idea.

Good news about the powder coating. I much prefer to make suggestions that turnout to be usefull, even implemented, rather than unconsidered and/or defective. Excellent price too.

How to remove the cross slide screw? Same disclaimer, so my answer is "one part at a time". LOL
Start with that setscrew in the graduated dial, and so on.

Acid dip? Not if you want a servicable QCGB in the end.
Use paint stripper as required on the painted surfaces (heed all manufcturers direction). Followed by a pressure wash. then soak/scrub in a bucket of diesel fuel (wear chemical gloves) to clean the innerds.
I suspect that, if I had it in my hand, I would recommend complete dissassembly to ensure that all bearing surfaces get throughly cleaned.