New To Me 11" Logan 920

[682bear]

Ok, here goes...

To remove the compound rest on mine (yours may be the same), look on the side of the carriage... there should be a set screw on each side...



Back those set screws out all the way and the compound should lift out of the hole... there is a dovetail on the bottom of the compound that the set screws seat into, holding it in.

I have the compound off mine... it is in good condition, just filthy... I should have the gib, screw, nut, and handwheel floating around here somewhere.



It looks pretty rough, but is just nasty... I'll drop it in the parts cleaner tank and see how clean I can get it.

The follow rest...



It should fit an 11 inch Logan...it is in good condition, but also needs cleaning.

The collet adapter...



The big end of the taper measures 1.625, the small end measures 1.495, and the taper is 1.940 long. It is stamped '3005023' and 'Sutton SH' on the end. A 5c collet fits the ID.

I'm not sure how to determine whether it is the correct adapter for your lathe... maybe the dimensions will help... if you need any more information, I'll do what I can to help with it.

The model number of my Logan is a 1957T... serial number 88056 if that helps...

-Bear

 

[Shiseiji]

Ok, here goes...

To remove the compound rest on mine (yours may be the same), look on the side of the carriage... there should be a set screw on each side...

View attachment 371872

Back those set screws out all the way and the compound should lift out of the hole... there is a dovetail on the bottom of the compound that the set screws seat into, holding it in.

I have the compound off mine... it is in good condition, just filthy... I should have the gib, screw, nut, and handwheel floating around here somewhere.

View attachment 371873

It looks pretty rough, but is just nasty... I'll drop it in the parts cleaner tank and see how clean I can get it.

The follow rest...

View attachment 371874

It should fit an 11 inch Logan...it is in good condition, but also needs cleaning.

The collet adapter...

View attachment 371875

The big end of the taper measures 1.625, the small end measures 1.495, and the taper is 1.940 long. It is stamped '3005023' and 'Sutton SH' on the end. A 5c collet fits the ID.

I'm not sure how to determine whether it is the correct adapter for your lathe... maybe the dimensions will help... if you need any more information, I'll do what I can to help with it.

The model number of my Logan is a 1957T... serial number 88056 if that helps...

-Bear

Unlike the 10", all 11" have a pintle mount compound.

 

[Shiseiji]

The PO may have used the gib screw as a lock (assuming the compound doesn't have a dedicated lock screw). No big deal.

The broken T-slot is common enough. Maybe from over tightening. Maybe from a crash. Repair is possible or maybe you can find a replacement.
Would not be the worst sin to run it like that.

Backlash isn't "adjustable" there. Due to nut wear an/or screw wear. If backlash is unacceptable, new parts are in order. Get the lathe running and contributors can walk you through making replacements.

10 & 11" Logans do not have dedicated compound or cross slide lock screws. See manual extract below.

Often, cross slide and compound, backlash is not the nut, but rather the handle/bushing design that makes it very difficult to adjust the gap/lash necessary so the dial will spin and have low back lash. You can see that in the compound screw parts breakdown, if tightened too tight the inside nut will lock the dial and screw to the bushing and not spin. . There are several methods for correcting this, the simplest is to counter bore the bushing for thrust bearings and zero out the cross slide screw to the cross slide lash, then the dial lash is independent.

Other options are usually used with the primary intent of mounting a larger dial further out on the cross slide saddle so you don't limit the cross slide travel. That also requires doing "something" to male the cross slide screw longer. Various methods of that are covered here, on the Practical Machinist, and on the Logan group. Recently on Winky's Workshop on YouTube as well as Mr. Pete covered making larger dials and accepting the limits on the cross slide travel. A commercial option, Stelling, was once available and tend to be pricy when they come up on eBay. Another option is Hardinge dials that share the 7/16" shaft size, used in conjunction with thrust bushing option mentioned above. he other advantage for many is it permits making a 200 division direct reading dial. The Hardinge dial uses a floating bushing and locking knurled ring like is found on most mills and can be found with 200 divisions. I've played with adapting a mill dial with 200 divisions and a friction lock, but not enough to report out or post anything.

An unusual but interesting dial design is in The Model Engineers Workshop Manual by George H. Thomas and see chapter 15 Cross slide Micrometer Dials. His design has a collar that rides under the fixed ring so the lock is on the fixed ring and thus doesn't interfere with the markings and stays in one place. The drawings, at least to me, take some real study to understand!

 

[Shiseiji]

Ref. Broken compound tee slot. I've picked these up over the years as examples of what others have done (and re-done).

 

[Charlieman22]

The big end of the taper measures 1.625, the small end measures 1.495, and the taper is 1.940 long. It is stamped '3005023' and 'Sutton SH' on the end. A 5c collet fits the ID.

I'm not sure how to determine whether it is the correct adapter for your lathe... maybe the dimensions will help... if you need any more information, I'll do what I can to help with it.

The model number of my Logan is a 1957T... serial number 88056 if that helps...

Bear - I'll do some research to see if we can determine if my taper is the same. That looks like the part!
You're a good man for digging it out. Thank you.

It should fit an 11 inch Logan...it is in good condition, but also needs cleaning.

Follow rest looks good to me. Shiseiji/ others - can you help us identify if it would fit my machine?

Shiseiji - good stuff. I had gotten my hands on the manual - but not noticed there was also a parts catalog. I've located that now - very helpful.

My pesky paying job will require a bit of focus this morning - then I will turn my attention to cleaning and more dissasembly. I'll grab some pics of my compound slide after I take it apart and give it a cleaning.

 

[Shiseiji]

Bear - I'll do some research to see if we can determine if my taper is the same. That looks like the part!
You're a good man for digging it out. Thank you.


Follow rest looks good to me. Shiseiji/ others - can you help us identify if it would fit my machine?

Shiseiji - good stuff. I had gotten my hands on the manual - but not noticed there was also a parts catalog. I've located that now - very helpful.

My pesky paying job will require a bit of focus this morning - then I will turn my attention to cleaning and more dissasembly. I'll grab some pics of my compound slide after I take it apart and give it a cleaning.

LOL, you mean you have a real life?

Ron

 

[Shiseiji]

LOL, you mean you have a real life?

Ron

Follower Rest for 10" & 11" Lathes Logan notes two previous part numbers that may account for the slots vs, holes.

 

[Charlieman22]

Day got away from me - but not before I was able to put in a few hours of cleaning.
Did not manage to get to the cross slides - as I had already commenced work on the legs and tray.

Issue: blind man with a stick painting combined with chipping and pealing.
Just cant bring myself to assembling the machine like this.

After a bit of experimentation - found the pressure washer was most effective for the flaking paint.
Off came the light gray.
Then the brushed on baby green.
Until the original epoxy hardened Logan gray showed.

Trigger warning - one suspects the next couple sentences may create some... disagreements.
I'm sure the Logan gray was beautiful when new - but there is a reason this thing got re-painted.
Twice.
The underlying paint - where it exists - is not very interesting.

After stripping back to the original paint - I'm not sure I am really any further along - and arguably further set back.
I had not really been committed to a repaint - but it feels like I am getting sucked in.

I am now pondering 2 things.
1. Sand blasting the legs and tray
2. Using Enamel automotive paint OR going with Rustoleum Hammered finish - because talking about sand blasting wasn't enough.

Just to throw a bit more red meat to the crowd - my hesitation on the Rustoleum is... I'm considering painting it a baby blue and that color is not available.
So - to sand blast or not, and do I go hammer finish silver or gray, or a baby blue enamel.



Mid pressure wash.

 

[extropic]

I'm not one who really cares what color one chooses to live with. Different strokes . . .

However, I will throw out an idea for your consideration. Find a local powder coater who also does the surface prep. Take your pressure washed bits to him, wham, bam, done. Nlot the lowes $$ aproach but ver durable, pretty and WIDE choice of colors.

Regarding paint, I read about quite a few people using tractor/engine paints from Tractor Supply and the like. I don't think there's a TS near by your home, but I haven't looked. Rustoleum brand has been mentioned. The color choice is probably limited but it's supposed to be tough paint.

 

[Charlieman22]

I'm not one who really cares what color one chooses to live with. Different strokes . . .

I get it - and you are in good company on that one.
The appeal of the hammer finish is a few fold:
- I can put it on with a brush
- I can touch it up easily if (when) it chips
- It hides a lot of underlying ills without much prep

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ What can I say - I kinda imagined a classic Vespa colored lathe in the garage.
That said - I may need to just get over it and use what rustoleum offers.
There is a gray and a silver - and one of them is a likely candidate.
Perhaps I will tape off and do a couple test patches tomorrow to see what I think.

Powder coating would be gold standard for toughness - if a bit expensive.
No touch up of course - but probably none needed!
Thanks for throwing out a few bones.
Good to have some options to ponder for my morning.

I've also read others talk about the tractor paint.
Looks like I can get it online.
Would likely still require a bit more prep work than hammer finish - but with nice tough results.

BTW - Bear - if you are reading this - I'll get to my cross slides tomorrow and send you a message.
May be in your neck of the woods on Monday next week.